Splice Strip Nutplate Question

[dstates]

I’m working on the splice strip (W-1019) that goes between the fuel tank and outboard leading edge. Normally it would come attached to the fuel tank skin and you would separate them, but since I purchased someone else’s finished QB tanks I just ordered the strip by itself.

For some reason my W-1019 strip has holes for just one type of nutplate for the whole part. The plans show that the aft nutplates on the top and bottom would use a different nutplate. Functionally I don’t see any issue with it, but I’m wondering if anyone can shed light on if this would be a problem or not. Are there any clearance issues in that area? I’ll likely call Vans on Monday, but I’d like to squeeze these rivets this weekend.

Thanks!

 

[dwollen89]

I'm not building a 14, so take this with a grain of salt. However, I just did this on the leading edge skins for my 7. That splicer plate looks like the one on my 7. Is it possible that you got the wrong splicer plate? The one in your plans looks like a completely different plate with the last holes further aft.

 

[PhatRV]

In the -8, we had to drill the holes for the nutplates with the tank fitted to the wing.

So in your case, can you temporarily fasten the fuel tank and the leading edge and see if the splice plate will fit. This is an invisible plate after the fuel tank goes on so you can probably build two doublers and fit the final nutplates if the holes don't line up. Nobody will ever see the doubler

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I'm not building a 14, so take this with a grain of salt. However, I just did this on the leading edge skins for my 7. That splicer plate looks like the one on my 7. Is it possible that you got the wrong splicer plate? The one in your plans looks like a completely different plate with the last holes further aft.

I agree
I think there is a pretty high probability that you don’t have the correct part.

 

[dstates]

I spoke to Vans and they compared my received part with the RV-10 plans (pretty much same wing) and looked at the latest leading edge tank skin drawing. Apparently the RV-10 leading edge tank skin uses 19 of the same nut plates, but the RV-14 design was not updated to match. I will go ahead and use the part I have and install the nut plates.

Another interesting difference between the 10 and 14 plans is the 10 plans say to machine countersink all of the #40 nut plate attach holes and use standard nut plates vs. the 14 plans say to dimple the holes and use the dimpled nut plates. Another opportunity for a revision to improve commonality, but it could be an inventory nightmare to do.

Doug

 

[stigaro]

What does the aft most hole on your tank skin look like? Will it match a K1100-08 nutplate at this location?

 

[dstates]

Yes, everything seems to line up just fine with the dimpled holes in the tank skin.

I don't think most RV-14 builders will see this issue. I believe it is because I ordered the splice strip since I purchased someone's completed tanks when they bought the aftermarket tanks. Normally this part would come attached to the tank skin. I deducted the tank skin from my order, but then realized I didn't have the splice strip. The service part Van's sells is based off the RV-10 even though the RV-14 part has the same part number. It is unfortunate that the parts and instructions are not identical between the 10 and the 14, but I believe the screw hole locations are the same.

This might be of interest for those who are ordering the Sky Designs larger tank for the RV-14. If they deduct the tank skin from their wing kit, they will need to add the splice strip to their order, unless that is part of the aftermarket tank kit...