I'm setting up to paint my next project and was looking for input on my plan:
- Devilbiss Prolite HVLP
- Quincy 60 Gallon 2-Stage Compressor
- Maxline system (at least 50 feet with at least 2 water traps)
- Devilbiss QC3 Filter and Dryer
As far as paint booth, I have an air conditioned 12.5 x 30 temporary enclosed area with appropriate air flow and exhaust.
I live in Alabama, so if I want to paint past 6am during the summer humidity is a huge consideration and was leaning towards the Devilbiss CT Plus 5-Stage system vs the QC3 but it's probably overkill and obnoxiously big.
This will be my first big paint project, I'd rather my skills be the limiting factor and not the setup, advice appreciated
A few comments:
* Personally, I am not a big fan of HVLP guns. These were originally developed to meet environmental requirements - not because they worked better. These days, you can also buy "compliant" guns which meet the environmental requirements in some states but aren't technically HVLP guns. I have 3 guns - 2 Sharpe HVLPs and a Devilbiss compliant. I use the Devilbiss for all the finish work.
Honestly, every painter has his favorite gun (favorite because he has used it enough to get proficient with it). The trick is to practice enough with both the gun and the paint system you are using to get yourself "dialed in".
* Keeping moisture out of the air supply is essential as you have figured out. I am just north of you in Huntsville - so I know about dealing with Alabama humidity! The compressor, lines, and regulator/filter/dryer you mention should work fine. In fact I believe the QC3 is the same one I used. I also used "final filters" that attach to air inlet on the gun to catch any water that might get through. Never had any water issues during the paint of the RV-7 or cars before that. Nothing wrong with going for the fancier system though. Water spraying out with your paint will definitely ruin your day!
* I would recommend you include a small pressure regulator with gauge that attaches at the gun. My process was to set the regulator on the OC3 to some number a good bit higher than my desired spraying pressure. I would then set the actual spray pressure on the gun regulator. More convenient to adjust on the fly and is more repeatable as you change air hose lengths/diameters.
* You say you have "appropriate" airflow and exhaust in your painting area. Is this based on industry standards for paint booths or ?????. IMHO, the airflow/exhaust issue is mostly about visibility and over spray issues. I assume you are planning on a fresh air system for breathing (Hobby Air or equivalent) rather than a filter mask? Some paint systems require a fresh air breathing system if you want to KEEP breathing!
* Good inlet and outlet filters are a must - tacky inlet filters to catch dust, etc, and outlet paint arrestors to keep your downstream fans, ducts, etc from getting clogged with paint. Actual paint booth filters are easy to get online and not terribly expensive. Much more effective than your typical furnace filters.
Biggest debris issue (at least in Alabama) is BUGS. Avoid painting at night unless you have a clean room for a paint booth. Some little sucker will always find his way in to your carefully closed booth and into the paint!
* There is no such thing as too much light IMHO - particularly side lights that illuminate the vertical surfaces you will be spraying. Painting is a bit like welding in that you will have a hard time doing a good job if you can't see the work.
My 2 cents based on my painting experiences. I am full of opinions (like everyone else)
. Feel free to contact me if you like - glad to discuss further.