ProSeal (can be) Your Friend ...

[HFS]

Here are a couple of pics of using ProSeal A & B to seal the stiffeners in my -3 that I have been building for a while.

When you are in "control" of the ProSeal, it really isn't all that bad to use ...

HFS
RV-3 S/N 11226 - (very) long build

 

[wcalvert]

Now that's satisfying.

My first thought was "we've got 'em right where we want 'em" until you put your hand on the wrong end of the stir stick!

 

[blueflyer]

How did you apply it so neatly?

Here are a couple of pics of using ProSeal A & B to seal the stiffeners in my -3 that I have been building for a while.

When you are in "control" of the ProSeal, it really isn't all that bad to use ...

HFS
RV-3 S/N 11226 - (very) long build

 

[rmarshall234]

Pro seal rocks. My first job out of A&P school was working at Corporate Helicopters and did a lot of riveting on helicopters. Helicopters vibrate a lot and all aluminum to aluminum joints were assembled with pro seal. When I asked the DOM why he said it adds strength and prevents cracking and corrosion. I use the same technique on fixed wing aircraft when those things are a concern.

Just don’t get me started on pal nuts…lol

 

[HFS]

How Did I Apply It So Neatly ...

to answer blueflyer's question -

For the Hershey "Kisses" over the rivets - I used the "A" formulation (like Karo syrup) applied with a syringe.

For everything else - I used the "B" formulation (non sag), applied with my DIY Pro Seal "Gun" made from a $3.95 caulking gun + commercially available empty "cartridges" from McMaster-Carr. Way simpler, neater, cheaper & more convenient than using the pre-packaged sealants.

The nice thing about my DIY version of the "gun", is that I make an aluminum "piston" that pushes the sealant out of the cartridge, but it also allows you to "withdraw" the plunger to create negative pressure at the tip, which precludes that ever present "drip" if using the disposable plunger that comes with the cartridges.

YYMV - But this is a cheap way to do a nice (read controlled) job!

HFS

 

[fixnflyguy]

Well done!

A man of my own heart !..Proseal is wonderful stuff ! I love using "A" topcoat to get the full gloss smooth finish. I've spent the better part of my career working KC-10 Tanker overhaul and Structures work on pressurized heavy jets. Those who are new to Proseal usually suffer the sticky finger wrecked clothing misery before finding the true beauty.

 

[PaulvS]

And that wonderful smell! Oh gosh! That's gotta be the cherry on top!!
(Better than "napalm in the morning")

 

[Low Pass]

to answer blueflyer's question -

For the Hershey "Kisses" over the rivets - I used the "A" formulation (like Karo syrup) applied with a syringe.

For everything else - I used the "B" formulation (non sag), applied with my DIY Pro Seal "Gun" made from a $3.95 caulking gun + commercially available empty "cartridges" from McMaster-Carr. Way simpler, neater, cheaper & more convenient than using the pre-packaged sealants.

The nice thing about my DIY version of the "gun", is that I make an aluminum "piston" that pushes the sealant out of the cartridge, but it also allows you to "withdraw" the plunger to create negative pressure at the tip, which precludes that ever present "drip" if using the disposable plunger that comes with the cartridges.

YYMV - But this is a cheap way to do a nice (read controlled) job!

HFS

Excellent info! Thanks for sharing. Big proponent of keeping things neat. The shop, workplace, Proseal applications. A little OCD, a little about quality outcomes.

And I've also used Proseal for a number of structural/mechanical bonding applications. Have begun to use Sikaflex 221 for bonding where a little less strength is needed but quicker cure/more convenience is wanted.

 

[cvairwerks]

Masking tape works well for making neat edges where you have access. Let it sit til the sealant is getting close to or slightly past it's worklife and then peel the tape back on itself.

 

[scsmith]

Never seen such a short caulking gun.

to answer blueflyer's question -

For the Hershey "Kisses" over the rivets - I used the "A" formulation (like Karo syrup) applied with a syringe.

For everything else - I used the "B" formulation (non sag), applied with my DIY Pro Seal "Gun" made from a $3.95 caulking gun + commercially available empty "cartridges" from McMaster-Carr. Way simpler, neater, cheaper & more convenient than using the pre-packaged sealants.

The nice thing about my DIY version of the "gun", is that I make an aluminum "piston" that pushes the sealant out of the cartridge, but it also allows you to "withdraw" the plunger to create negative pressure at the tip, which precludes that ever present "drip" if using the disposable plunger that comes with the cartridges.

YYMV - But this is a cheap way to do a nice (read controlled) job!

HFS

 

[scsmith]

The messy parts are:

1) filling the caulk tube

2) bucking the rivets

3) cleaning up everything, including the rivet gun, rivet set, bucking bar (or back riveting plate) caulking gun, special aluminum piston

to answer blueflyer's question -

For the Hershey "Kisses" over the rivets - I used the "A" formulation (like Karo syrup) applied with a syringe.

For everything else - I used the "B" formulation (non sag), applied with my DIY Pro Seal "Gun" made from a $3.95 caulking gun + commercially available empty "cartridges" from McMaster-Carr. Way simpler, neater, cheaper & more convenient than using the pre-packaged sealants.

The nice thing about my DIY version of the "gun", is that I make an aluminum "piston" that pushes the sealant out of the cartridge, but it also allows you to "withdraw" the plunger to create negative pressure at the tip, which precludes that ever present "drip" if using the disposable plunger that comes with the cartridges.

YYMV - But this is a cheap way to do a nice (read controlled) job!

HFS

 

[BruceW]

The plastic syringes are my friend.
Use them for applying glues, solvents, and other stuff in tight spaces.
20 ml plastic syringes from Amazon are my go to.
May have to get some larger.

 

[wirejock]

Syringes

The plastic syringes are my friend.
Use them for applying glues, solvents, and other stuff in tight spaces.
20 ml plastic syringes from Amazon are my go to.
May have to get some larger.

NORM-JECT
Syringe, 50ml, Catheter, Plastic
They have so many uses. Proseal. Fill the syringe, drop it into a caulk gun. Go. Cheap enough to toss but easy to pull the plug of cured proseal because there's no rubber plug.
Excellent for measuring paints right out of the can. Zero mess or waste. Just pull the product into the syringe. I do label and clean the paint syringe. The catalyst and reducer are viscous so I just hold a finger over the tip and pour in the product. Release into the cup. Best part is no silicone contamination from the rubber plug.

 

[Jakmart]

My source: https://www.farmandfleet.com/veterinary-syringes/