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Please help me understand my alternator field switch circuit configuration

It just doesn't make sense that if you bypassed the bad wire by going directly from the field switch to terminal 6 that it didn't work because you took the whole bad wire that you replaced out of the system.. That's all I'm trying to say
It did work which is what I said.
 
I have a new field switch that I temporarily wired (with completely different wires) from the bus to terminal 6 and I get the same 2V.

here you said it didnt.. than you said you replaced the wire between the master and terminal 6 and it did, this is what doesn't make sense
 
Well the problem is fixed, so that is good, and we all learned something, even better. And it was something simple (the wire).

To Joe, I tip my hat, he is a true gentleman who kept his word by donating to VAF and Doug when the fault was not as we all expected it to be!
 
here you said it didnt.. than you said you replaced the wire between the master and terminal 6 and it did, this is what doesn't make sense
Now I see. I have no idea what happened there but I stand corrected on my comments.

Problem seems solved but I’ll check things again a few times before flying.

Thanks to all who have helped!!
 
I am glad that I keep working to find the cause of the issue despite having fixed it by running a new wire.

As it turns out, the nuts that secure the cannon plug mounting flange prohibited the threaded collar from being tightened all the way and had vibrated loose over the years. The VR input was the first sign but every connection in there (which contains all of my electrical connection) was about to become an open circuit.

I was able to reverse the nut and pan head end of the screw and get everything to tighten correctly.

Thanks for all the help and hopefully this thread helps someone else.
 

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It is difficult to remotely troubleshoot an electrical problem when there are components in the system that are not known to exist.
Of course the OP did not know that the cannon plug was in the circuit at first either. Anyway, good going finding the problem.
The vast majority of electrical problems are due to bad connections, not faulty components.
 
I am glad that I keep working to find the cause of the issue despite having fixed it by running a new wire.

As it turns out, the nuts that secure the cannon plug mounting flange prohibited the threaded collar from being tightened all the way and had vibrated loose over the years. The VR input was the first sign but every connection in there (which contains all of my electrical connection) was about to become an open circuit.

I was able to reverse the nut and pan head end of the screw and get everything to tighten correctly.

Thanks for all the help and hopefully this thread helps someone else.
What is the canon plug plugging into? I have used a Denso internal regulated alternator for the past 9 years, bullit proof, my 310 has antique Delco 10DN 24 volt alts with a VR that has a plug like that but just pushes on, I dont remember seeing a VR with a canon plug
 
What is the canon plug plugging into? I have used a Denso internal regulated alternator for the past 9 years, bullit proof, my 310 has antique Delco 10DN 24 volt alts with a VR that has a plug like that but just pushes on, I dont remember seeing a VR with a canon plug
The cannon plug is how the builder took all the wires through a bulkhead in the fuse…it just plugs into itself.
 
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