Painting Has Begun!!!!

[fstringham7a]

RE:Good / Bad / Ugly......

I put the black accent on the engine pleneum cover today. The picture dosen't do the paint justice. There was alot of shade effect that I didn't notice when I took the picture. Anyway I think you will get the idea.



I learned a ton about my new Devilibiss gun/ Stewart System Paint / and my ability or lack there of.....in painting

The good......Great paint/ease of clean up/wonderfully glossy shine/real tough stuff when dry

The Bad ....My technique is real poor/orange peel present/PRACTICE I GUESS WILL CURE THIS

The ugly...tape line created a rise in the black paint where the red and ivory.
joined as they were painted.....I will have to sand that out in the future.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting

 

[hydroguy2]

looks good from this angle. can't wait to see it up close and personal.

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Update

Started the paint process last of Aug 2008.......learned alot of what not to do and have had some success in learning what and how to do when using the Stewart System paint......

I just finished the top and bottom cowl to the final primer coat stage. This process worked great for me and left the cowl halfs in great shape for the final paint. Used two applications of Evercoat Rage Gold cover the pin holes and flaws. It took a couple of days of applying and sanding to get the Cowl halfs to the point of where the UV Eckofill was applied. I still didn't have my new Devillbiss Finishline gun adjusted properly. The primer came out a bit too heavy and orange peel effect. This created alot of sanding to get it to a smooth condition for the White Primer/Sealer paint undercoat. Adjucted the gun to the point that the White primer had less orange peel but still had to do alot of sanding to get it to the point where a second application of the white prime will smooth it out. The Stewart's white primer/sealer is easy to sand and leaves the surface very smooth and ready for the application of the
paint. The primer is also very tough stuff.

So it took nearly a month plus to mess up big time (red glaze putty) clean up the mess, and to finally get the cowls ready for paint. If I knew then what I know now it would have been 7 days or less to get the cowls ready for paint.
In fact the plane would probably be painted by now and ready for the final push to 1st flight...................

Oh ya I remember experimental aviation is an educational activity......

Frank @ 1L8 ...Rv7A... painting ......will it ever end

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Finally...some good news

After a very long and steep learning curve I finally painted (Stewart's Syatem)first of my RV7A parts. The canopy!!!!!



Painting officially started in August 2008........like everything else on the project, at least for me, a lot of learning, a few miss steps, and the knowledge learned. Now with the cool desert southwest winter approaching I will have to get with it to stay in that important temperature range.

The paint job will probably be much less than a professional Chip Foose paint job but at least I will have the comfort of knowing i built the WHOLE PLANE!!!!!

Frank @ 1L8....RV7A...painting......

 

[fstringham7a]

REaint Prep

Spent the day finishing up the fuse for primer. Step one was to mask off all the places you don't want painted/primered. Step 2 was red scotch bright the WHOLE fuse. My process was to have a bucket of Stewart Cleaner/Degresser diluted in hot water and a bucket of clean rinse water with a towel to wipe down the residue after the using the scotch bright dipped in the cleaning solution.

To say the least my old body is just a bit sore from all the " Wax on Wax off motion".

I then reloaded a new round high strength cleaner degresser in a clean bucket and slowly washed the whole fuse and rinsed with water......I did find a few spots that need more scotch bright effort and clean up of some rough spots. This was completed followed by another round of cleaning and rinsing......

If the weather shines bright and warm tomorrow I will shoot the primer followed next week by..........PAINT.........

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... paint prep / paint

 

[hydroguy2]

I didn't realize that you have been building long enough for your plane to need a colostomy bag.

Just kidding. Keep up the good work, can't wait to see it.

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:The Bag

I didn't realize that you have been building long enough for your plane to need a colostomy bag.

Just kidding. Keep up the good work, can't wait to see it.

Brian

You and I must think a like ............ I thought the same thing but didn't think it politically correct to pick on us aged pilots.....

How is your project coming?

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A ..... paint prep/paint

 

[hydroguy2]

Brian
.......How is your project coming?...........

Slow, very very slow. I'll be lucky to be at the paint point in 4yrs Kris wants the cabin built before I get an engine.

 

[Pat Stewart]

Paint/alodine

Do you plan on alodine?

Spent the day finishing up the fuse for primer. Step one was to mask off all the places you don't want painted/primered. Step 2 was red scotch bright the WHOLE fuse. My process was to have a bucket of Stewart Cleaner/Degresser diluted in hot water and a bucket of clean rinse water with a towel to wipe down the residue after the using the scotch bright dipped in the cleaning solution.

To say the least my old body is just a bit sore from all the " Wax on Wax off motion".

I then reloaded a new round high strength cleaner degresser in a clean bucket and slowly washed the whole fuse and rinsed with water......I did find a few spots that need more scotch bright effort and clean up of some rough spots. This was completed followed by another round of cleaning and rinsing......

If the weather shines bright and warm tomorrow I will shoot the primer followed next week by..........PAINT.........

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... paint prep / paint

 

[fstringham7a]

RErimer Sealer

Hi Pat

Good ???. The short answer is no. The Stewart Paint System 7510 White Eckofill is a primer/sealer. I just shot the fuse to day. Tomorrow I will give it a light sand and a good cleaning followed by the first of three maskings. Wednesday I will shoot my first color of three that make up my design......

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...paint prep/paint

 

[fstringham7a]

RErimering Fuse or Man from Mars

Spent the AM hours primering the RV7A fuse. Wasn't as hard as I thought.....just like all the other boogy men......

[/IMG]

OK Sam B. I look almost as BAD as you did when you were painting your RV6 way back when.

I really like the Stewart System. Especially the clean up!!!!

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... paint prep / paint

 

[allbee]

I had trouble with the stewart system and figured what was going wrong. First off the weather is turning cold here. So make sure the temp gets a little warmer than 70 in the building. Than make sure the paint is warm, I ended up setting the paint container on a heating pad, along with the water and the part b catalist. Also I think the high humidity didn't help out things either. I had troubles with the paint wanting to dry, made for a real mess with runs. I ended up sanding it down and finally getting a good spray with the temps in the building up to 75 and heating up the paint. I figured another problem, but don't know what to do with it, and that is the compressor is out in the cold. I think I will be cutting a hole in the wall to the compressor and blowing warm air in there.

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Narrow Range

I had trouble with the stewart system and figured what was going wrong. First off the weather is turning cold here. So make sure the temp gets a little warmer than 70 in the building. Than make sure the paint is warm, I ended up setting the paint container on a heating pad, along with the water and the part b catalist. Also I think the high humidity didn't help out things either. I had troubles with the paint wanting to dry, made for a real mess with runs. I ended up sanding it down and finally getting a good spray with the temps in the building up to 75 and heating up the paint. I figured another problem, but don't know what to do with it, and that is the compressor is out in the cold. I think I will be cutting a hole in the wall to the compressor and blowing warm air in there.

Like you I have found that Stewart's paint does have a narrow range of perimeters especially in the temp area. I did shoot the canopy at about 65 degrees and climbing to about 70. It turned out great. I did talk with Dan about the temp and he said 65 degrees F is ok but keep the temp no lower than that during the cure time. I live here in the desert southwest where the humidity is bone dry. You would think that the paint would work better with a bit higher humidity. Go figure!!!!! I also keep the paint/supplies in the laundry room where the tempreature maintains a about a 72 degree temp. I also prepare the paint in this room where I haver a large lubdry sink. The wife isn't happy with this but is understanding of my plight...NO major spills or problems YET

I will be putting my electric portable heater near the compressor to get the compressed air temp up.....

Good Luck and keep us informed of your progress.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... paint prep/paint

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:10 foot rule

Progress continues on painting my RV7A.....

Prior to painting I did some spot priming (day before). I then remasked to make sure no dust from the priming would cause problems. I then lightly sanded and then used high strength cleaner/degreaser to clean the surface. I used clean water and white tarry cloth towels to rinse off the surface. This was completed after three interations and the water after the rinse was as clean as at the begining of the rinse. Once it was completely dry I used water bourne paint specific tack cloths to tack off the surface. Let the painting begin. Once done with four coats using the Stewart System method I sat back and let it dry. Not perfect/probably won't win any awards but....for me it does pass the 10 foot rule.

My family thinks I am way to critical and seem to obsess over the least little imperfection. They have given me some real good advice, "don't build the plane for the COMMITTEE OF THEY.... but build it safe and as good as you can!!!!"

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting....now almost two months and climbing!!!

 

[hydroguy2]

Exciting times for you.

Looks good from this distance

 

[RBR]

Questions for Frank

Frank,

I am years behind you in my project, but like you am progressing down the Stewart route. So far, I'm reasonably happy, but am only at the priming stage.

Your gun appears to be the same as mine, DeVILBISS Finishline 3 (Waterbourne) and I am using the DeKUPS system too.

My first attempts to prime resulted in a dry, sandy like appearance, but I think the ambient temperature may have been too high. Subsequent priming efforts have been done at dawn with overall nicer effects. (It's summer down here).

1. When setting up your gun, do you follow Dan's advice on the video and use 3/4 of a turn on the fluid knob for the first pass, a further 1/8th for the 2nd and 3rd, followed by a 1/4 for the fourth pass?

2. How many priming coats do you apply?

3. Does the primer/sander appear dull and basically without shine on completion?

Many thanks,

RBR

 

[fstringham7a]

Hi RBR

You will be here before you know it.....

Like you here in the desert SW of Utah (120 miles NE of las Vegas..193 Km) it is real hot in the summer. I started the project in August and the heat did cause some problems. The temps are now about 65+ F (18+ C)in the garage and I seem to be getting better results both with primer and paint. I have noted I can get a real smooth primer (white primer 7510)finish when I follow Dan's protacol.

Answer to you questions follow your questions????

Frank,

I am years behind you in my project, but like you am progressing down the Stewart route. So far, I'm reasonably happy, but am only at the priming stage.

Your gun appears to be the same as mine, DeVILBISS Finishline 3 (Waterbourne) and I am using the DeKUPS system too.

"Same gun and yes I shot both primer and paint with the 1.3 tip"

My first attempts to prime resulted in a dry, sandy like appearance, but I think the ambient temperature may have been too high. Subsequent priming efforts have been done at dawn with overall nicer effects. (It's summer down here).

I had the same problem. I found out that my distance from the surface being painted was too great and I moved the gun to fast. Once I got optimum and consistant distance and slowed the gun movement down and had appropriate overlap of passes things started getting better for both primer and paint. I am though, finding that I am still lacking patiences between coats. Both primer and paint will get a bit grainy if you don't let it tack up first.........

1. When setting up your gun, do you follow Dan's advice on the video and use 3/4 of a turn on the fluid knob for the first pass, a further 1/8th for the
2nd and 3rd, followed by a 1/4 for the fourth pass?

"Yes on paint and primer"

How many priming coats do you apply?

"4 coats.......To the conventional (PPG...etc any high VOC paint) folks this may seem like a lot but it is very thin and light waeight once it flashes off."

3. Does the primer/sander appear dull and basically without shine on completion?

"Yes except where I may have gone a bit low on distance/slow on speed or overlaped to heavy. But even these areas will sand easily to creat a uniform in color primer base coat for the final paint top coat."

If you have read this entire thread you know my learning curve has been pretty long and steep. With that said given the problems would I do it a again. YES. Once I am totally complete I will try and write a new thread with what I have found that works. I am still learning for sure. I am still trying to get that artist rhythum of speed/distance/stop/start action of the gun. I am also trying to find that perfect timing between coats that is so critical to get a very smooth/less grainy final coat.

I would also like to say that the good folks at Stewart's have been great to help. Dan has always given me immediate access even when I know he is real busy. We also had a problem with an order that came damaged....paint does not really travel well when it come out of it's container. They replaced immediatly with out question. They also replaced a gallon of 7510 primer free of charge when they determined that the batch it came from was MAYBE causing some problems. It was later determined not to be the problem......

So my painting saga continues. I can now say without any question in my mind: it has been by the far the most difficult part of the building process but I think that in the end it may be the most rewarding. I do know that I am far from perfect but it will be OK...........

Aircraft painters do earn every cent of what EVER they charge. My hat is off to them.

Keep us updated on your paint progress

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting


Many thanks,

RBR

 

[RBR]

Many thanks Frank

Thanks was a wonderful reply Frank, very informative.......

Richard

 

[dbuds2]

Excellent Contributions Frank


I've been practicing with Stewart primer and paint. I believe I'll get good enough to do external surfaces, so far practicing on the inside stuff. The paint is tough and I love how safe and easy it is.

Thanks for taking the time to encourage and teach us Frank!

 

[fstringham7a]

REink Garage Floor ....

Painted the second of three colors on the fuse today. One of the neat outcomes was I now have a pink garage floor

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A .... Painting

 

[hydroguy2]

wow that's looking purdy.

Kris asked, How far does that pink floor track into the house?

 

[fstringham7a]

wow that's looking purdy.

Kris asked, How far does that pink floor track into the house?

Hi Kris

Lucky for me the only pink household item was the Freezer (nearly new) in the garage. I did clean it.......nothing in the house...dodged another bullet. But, I still have the wings and Emp to do!!!!

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting and turning all in the area pink

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Black Trim Paint

Painted the black trim on the bottom and sides of the fuse today.

I am ever slowly starting to get the painters dance down........

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting

 

[frankh]

Can't wait

To see it Frank

Frank..No the other one..

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Latest Pix from the paint booth (garage)

Here our a couple of pix from the paint booth....in my case the garage!!!!! I can tell you that painting is alot of work...especially multiple colors....but can be rewarding.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting VS/Rudder

 

[hydroguy2]

Kris and I approve!

nice choice on the color combo. two thumbs up

 

[Guy Prevost]

That's Awesome!!! Great colors and very creative design.

I found painting to be the most difficult, gumption robbing, and rewarding part of the build process. Do you agree?

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Yes

Guy

Yes on all points!!!!

Now if I can just get this desert to warm up a bit so I can finish this painting stuff.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting VS/Rudder

 

[frankh]

Ooooh

Preeeettty...

Frank1

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:VS/Rudder Paint process

Hi

The painting as begun yet again. A long cold spell, an even longer tussel with a nasty head cold, and family responsibilities have kept me from getting after it. In short January was a loss to aircraft painting......

Here is a picture of the VS with two of the three colors.



I did note a new problem arising in the paint. I got a couple of fish eyes. @#$! Not bad enough to repaint, but enough to aggravate. I know that a few drops of water came from my gloves......THAT I FORGOT TO THOROUGHLY DRY.....

So on to the black accent strip. FISH EYES BY THE POUND>>>WHAT THE @#$!%^$#*&&#@#.

Talked with Doug at Sewarts and we decided that it was probably not letting the part thoroughly dry after cleaning with EKOClean and many rinsing of water.

So give a second go round... FISH EYES even worse.....even after doing the process as I have done in the past.......

So using my old MBA training of problem analysis. What is different now (with success) than later having problems (with no success).

The light goes on. The propane heater is kicking out water/unburnt fuel/contaminates.....I did not use the propane heater during the early successful paint sessions.

On the fourth coat I could just see the eyes develop on the VS after I turned the heater on to get the garage back up to 70 degrees.......I noted that the rudder which was lower on a table got less fish eyes. Heat rises right, with its miserable little buggers to destroy my paint AGAIN. Oh ya, I forgot this is a learning experience of experimental aviation. Calm down and just get a new heater and begin a new.

There now I fell better!!!!!!!

Back to the garage....sand off the paint...clean again...wait for it to dry...and paint again using the correct heating apparatus.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting STILLLLLLLLLLLL

 

[Dave62]

Frank,
You probably already know this but they make fish eye remover for most paints. This is an addative that goes in the paint. Fish eyes are caused by a variety of contaminates...with silicone being number 1. Fish eye remover will only help a little....remember the area of fish eyes must be throughly sanded and cleaned....or the darn things will show up again in the same place!
Hope this helps.
Dave (the Swift driver)

 

[fstringham7a]

RE: It has become a career!!!!!!!!

Started the paint job August 2008 and here it is March 2009 and all that is comlete is the fuse and the cowl and 90% of the VS/Rudder.

As the story goes fish eyes. The story continues with trying to find what the problem was..............In my last installment I determined that my propane heater was the culpurit. Well not so fast!

I finally tore into the water/oil filter/regulator/and lines leading to the quick disconnect. What do you know.......Water and oil droplets were found. So after denial of many that the problem was not the heater but the Compressor/Filter/Pipes out of regulator/regulator/ I have to eat CROW!!!!!!!!!

I got a new fluid elimination filter. I then took the system a part including the regulator and cleaned everything to eliminate the offending water and oil. I also purchased a new Motorguard oil elimination Filter that will be the last line of defense in getting rid of the nasty oil droplets/mist.

My analysis is that during the cool somewhat wet month of January here in the Desert of SW Utah there was enough water in the system to overwhelme the the cheap Kobalt fluid filter. At that point the whole system...paint gun/pressure lines/filters/regulators/hose were all contaminated. The fuse and the cowl were all painted when it was pretty dry and warm...

So what to do with the time while I wait for the new filter. I decided to build this apparatus. Any guess as to what it is used for




Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... 4.5 years and counting...it will be done when it is done

 

[szicree]

Not sure if you've changed things since the pic of you in your painting suit, but it looks like there is no filter at the gun. If not, you really should give it a try. They're only a couple of bucks, made of plastic and screw right into the bottom of the gun. I say that no matter how fancy a line filter you use, there is still some moisture by the time you get to the gun. These little disposable filters are your last line of defense.

 

[Jerry Fischer]

My Guess

Looks like a stand to paint the wings/fuselage with the painting being done on the top surface. But that's just a guess

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:I gave them a try

Thanks for the info. I did try the motorguard filter that has a dessicant (Silica Gel...)at the gun. Didn't work. I still shot fsh eyes in my very last practice session. This was before taking the system a part.

This fact is a bit puzzeling to me in that Silica Gel not only elininates water but also oil vapor.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/217722516/Silica_Gel_Desiccant.html

"Silica Gel is available in porous, granular, and amorphous form chemical reaction between Sulfuric acid and Sodium Silicate. The internal structure of Slilica Gel is composed of a vast network of interconnected microscopic pores which attract and hold water, alcohol, hydrocarbons, and other chemicals by the phenomena known as physical adsorption and capilary condensation."

My thought is there was just a whole bunch of oil vapor which overwhelmened the system.

I will use a new one at the gun when i get the new oil elimination filter installed for that as you said, "last line if defense."

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...

Not sure if you've changed things since the pic of you in your painting suit, but it looks like there is no filter at the gun. If not, you really should give it a try. They're only a couple of bucks, made of plastic and screw right into the bottom of the gun. I say that no matter how fancy a line filter you use, there is still some moisture by the time you get to the gun. These little disposable filters are your last line of defense.

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Your the winner!!!!

Looks like a stand to paint the wings/fuselage with the painting being done on the top surface. But that's just a guess

Jerry

Your the Man on this one. It is going to be (hopefully) a rotisserie.

The outboard portion of the wing will have an appartus attached to the tooling holes that will have a 2 inch galvanized pipe attached that will set in the saddle formed between the two 2X4. The inboard apparatus will be attached to the main spar and will be used to turn the wing.

The Forward and Aft areas of the wing will be primed/painted with the wing in the usual horizontal position. The bottom and top of the wing will be painted in the more fun position of vertical.......


Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...

 

[frankh]

Oil free compressor

Is it really worth NOT spending 200 or so plus a new airline and avoid the problem completely?

The cost of the paint to correct mistakes is more than the compressor will cost..

Frank1

 

[fstringham7a]

Is it really worth NOT spending 200 or so plus a new airline and avoid the problem completely?

The cost of the paint to correct mistakes is more than the compressor will cost..

Frank1

Hi

Good point....I do have an oilless compressor. The problem with it and all the oilless compressors that I looked at is that they will not keep up with air the needs of the paint system I am using (too low cfm). The compressor gets real hot real fast under the continuious duty of the 21 psi needed to run the hvlp gun (Devilbiss Fiinishline 1.3).

I bought a Cambell Husfeld 80 gal 16.1 cfm @ 90 psi and it has performed flawlessly at least where the air needs are considered. It is true that appropriate filtration is needed. During October and November I painted the Fuse and Cowl and everything went great. It wasn't until January during the rainy season that the filtration system gave out. If I would of had an oil elimination filter and a filter at the gun I know the problem just would not have been a problem. AND the plane would be painted and well on it's way to being put together and ready for flight. But as we all know IF..................is not reality and reality always IS WHAT IT IS!!!!!!!!!!!!

So I press forward knowing that once I get the new oil removal filter and the last in line filter at the gun, and I hold my gun in the right way at the right distance and the right speed, and lean at no more than 10 degrees to the starboard, and move my feet no more than 24 inch apart, and always smile JUST slightly, and pray to the great paint diety Chip Foss, and tell my wife I love her, and make sure that the humidity is no more than 10% and the sun is at the appropriate angle to the earth.....................well you get the idea.....painting has alot of things to consider.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...


I got a good deal on a Campbel Huasfeld at Lowes. 80 Gallon

 

[fstringham7a]

Is it really worth NOT spending 200 or so plus a new airline and avoid the problem completely?

The cost of the paint to correct mistakes is more than the compressor will cost..

Frank1

Hi

Good point....I do have an oilless compressor. The problem with it and all the oilless compressors that I looked at is that they will not keep up with air needs of the paint system I am using (too low cfm). The compressor gets real hot real fast under the continous duty of the 21 psi needed to run the hvlp gun (Devilbiss Fiinishline 1.3).

I bought a Cambell Husfeld 80 gal 16.1 cfm @ 90 psi and it has performed flawlessly at least where the air needs are considered. It is true that appropriate filtration is needed. During October and November I painted the Fuse and Cowl and everything went great. It wasn't until January during the rainy season that the filtration system gave out. I also must admit that I also installed the filter improperly which is also part of the problem found when I tre into the lines to see where the problem was at. If I would of had an oil elimination filter and a filter at the gun I know the problem just would not have been a problem. AND the plane would be painted and well on it's way to being put together and ready for flight. But as we all know IF..................is not reality and reality always IS WHAT IT IS!!!!!!!!!!!!

So I press forward knowing that once I get the new oil removal filter and the last in line filter at the gun, buy the new hose, and I hold my gun in the right way at the right distance and the right speed, and lean at no more than 10 degrees to the starboard, and move my feet no more than 24 inch apart, and always smile JUST slightly, and pray to the great paint diety Chip Foss, and tell my wife I love her, and make sure that the humidity is no more than 10% and the sun is at the appropriate angle to the earth.....................well you get the idea.....painting has alot of things to consider.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...


I got a good deal on a Campbel Huasfeld at Lowes. 80 Gallon

 

[Captain Avgas]

Started the paint job August 2008 and here it is March 2009 and all that is comlete is the fuse and the cowl and 90% of the VS/Rudder.

The really amusing thing is that in your very first post on this thread back in August 08 you stated that you expected the painting process to take you "at least a month".

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:Thanks for the reminder....

The really amusing thing is that in your very first post on this thread back in August 08 you stated that you expected the painting process to take you "at least a month".

Bob

Thanks for the REMINDER......I think that after it is done I will be glad I tackled this interesting/frustrating at times/longer than you plan for process.
Who knows may be on my next build it will only take a month??????Did my wife hear that.....

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...Reality sinks in!

 

[frankh]

Hmmmm

Hi

Good point....I do have an oilless compressor. The problem with it and all the oilless compressors that I looked at is that they will not keep up with air needs of the paint system I am using (too low cfm). The compressor gets real hot real fast under the continous duty of the 21 psi needed to run the hvlp gun (Devilbiss Fiinishline 1.3).

I bought a Cambell Husfeld 80 gal 16.1 cfm @ 90 psi and it has performed flawlessly at least where the air needs are considered.

Not sure how you came to that conclusion Frank. basically a compressor does as much work as the power supply will allow..In other words a single phase machine had better not be pulling more than 20Amps or the circuit breaker will pop, The oil free machines are no less efficient that the oil filled units.

I bought a "so called" 5.5 HP (more like 2HP in real life) oil free unit from Sears..i think it was on sale for 280 ish.

I set my Harbor freight 20 OZ gun to 45 psi (at the gun) and was never successful in draining the air pressure down to where the compressor couldn't keep up.

Well except for once where I forgot to actually turn the air compressor ON!..

Basically the machine I got was the biggest you can get that will run on a 120V supply.

Now air compressor manufacturers lie in order to sell their machines..There, OK now I've said it.

They will tell you their machine is 5.5HP..Nonsence!..20Amps on a 120V supply is 2.4 KVa, or about 2.7Hp (power factor of .85) ...So it is physically impossible to have a 5.5HP machine on a 20 Amp breaker.

Secondly, CFM...Well, how are they measuring that?..if they are measuring peak flow out of the tank at max pressure (like they do to get horsepower)..Oh yeah it will be 16CFM Plus..But will your machine make a steady 16 SCFM?....

But basically the biggest machine you can get to run on a 20A breaker will make the same amount of air regardless of it being oil free of not.


But I guess your almost finished now so your not going to go buy a new compressor are you..

See you March 21st!!

Frank

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:For what I know?????

Hi Frank1

Which isn't much.....My oil lubricated compressor is an 80 gallon Cambell Husfeld and is a 220 unit running off of a 30 amp breaker and is wired direct to the main house panel. My Home Depot Husky compressor is a 120 unit that I plug into one of the garage outlets that is wired to a 20 amp breaker. As expected it competes for energy from lights/radio/various chargers......

Early in the project I used the Husky ( 32 gallon/5.5 peak and 1.7 continuous) to run a 1.5 Devilbiss gun at 25 psi. As I mentioned in the previous post it would almost ran continously and would get real hot and would not keep up with the gun. With that said I am far from being an electrical/compressor guru and thus will defer to your engineering background to set up the probable cause of my inadequate Husky oilless compressor. Maybe if I would have wired it direct to the panel I would have had better luck with it.

I do know that the good folks at Stewarts and almost all the paint booth wizards in my area said get a 220 unit with as much capacity (gals/Amps/cfm/psi/HP/........etc) as possible. I do know that when I painted the fuse the CH compressor came on twice during the entire paint session. Where my Husky would have run continous.......go figure

Looking forward to the lunch this month.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...

 

[fstringham7a]

RE: Painting Continues.....

Feb 12, 2009

Hi

The painting as begun yet again. A long cold spell, an even longer tussel with a nasty head cold, and family responsibilities have kept me from getting after it. In short January was a loss to aircraft painting......

Here is a picture of the VS with two of the three colors.



I did note a new problem arising in the paint. I got a couple of fish eyes. @#$! Not bad enough to repaint, but enough to aggravate. I know that a few drops of water came from my gloves......THAT I FORGOT TO THOROUGHLY DRY.....

So on to the black accent strip. FISH EYES BY THE POUND>>>WHAT THE @#$!%^$#*&&#@#.

Update 3/14/2009................

After a month of a long and steep learning curve the fish eye problem has been solved. Too long a story for this post. Lets just say, "when ya got a problem go with the obvious"! In this case once the oil/water separater was put on correctly, all lines totally cleaned, new oil vapor separator purchased, new hose purchased, and many trial shoots the problem was solved ....for now....who knows what problems lurk in my paint booth er I mean garage. The following picture gives an indication of the 1O foot rule. Not to bad but the VS/Rudder will have a few anomalies having been painted before the fish eye fix. Not totally happy but as the saying goes, "it is what it is"....:
At least it will give those folks with the perfect plane something to talk about.



I repainted the black accent strip and N number yesterday. I was pretty happy with the outcome. I am way far away from being a pro painter but it has been interesting, educational, frustrating, hard work, but satisfying to not be too beat up by another of the aircraft building boogy men!!!!!!!!!!!

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... about to paint the HS/Elevator

 

[frankh]

Can't wait to see it

Feb 12, 2009

Hi

The painting as begun yet again. A long cold spell, an even longer tussel with a nasty head cold, and family responsibilities have kept me from getting after it. In short January was a loss to aircraft painting......

Here is a picture of the VS with two of the three colors.



I did note a new problem arising in the paint. I got a couple of fish eyes. @#$! Not bad enough to repaint, but enough to aggravate. I know that a few drops of water came from my gloves......THAT I FORGOT TO THOROUGHLY DRY.....

So on to the black accent strip. FISH EYES BY THE POUND>>>WHAT THE @#$!%^$#*&&#@#.

Update 3/14/2009................

After a month of a long and steep learning curve the fish eye problem has been solved. Too long a story for this post. Lets just say, "when ya got a problem go with the obvious"! In this case once the oil/water separater was put on correctly, all lines totally cleaned, new oil vapor separator purchased, new hose purchased, and many trial shoots the problem was solved ....for now....who knows what problems lurk in my paint booth er I mean garage. The following picture gives an indication of the 1O foot rule. Not to bad but the VS/Rudder will have a few anomalies having been painted before the fish eye fix. Not totally happy but as the saying goes, "it is what it is"....:
At least it will give those folks with the perfect plane something to talk about.



I repainted the black accent strip and N number yesterday. I was pretty happy with the outcome. I am way far away from being a pro painter but it has been interesting, educational, frustrating, hard work, but satisfying to not be too beat up by another of the aircraft building boogy men!!!!!!!!!!!

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... about to paint the HS/Elevator

On Saturday..Then we can compare orange peel..

Fingers crossed the Wx will let us leave the Willamette Valley!


Frank1

 

[lostpilot28]

Hey Frank,
I hope your move to the airport went well. Any chance we could get an update on the paint? I take it you're done since you've moved your airplane.

I'm still considering using the AFS paint system and was wondering if you could tell me how much paint you used to paint your airplane.

 

[fstringham7a]

REainting is DONE!!!!!!

The painting is done but not complete!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Details will follow once the plane has had it's first flight. So off to the airport with the plane this coming tuesday and wednesday!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Hope to have it flying ASAP. You know the saying, "it will be done when it is done"

Frank @ 1L8...RV7A... move to the airport underway

Feb 12, 2009

Hi

The painting as begun yet again. A long cold spell, an even longer tussel with a nasty head cold, and family responsibilities have kept me from getting after it. In short January was a loss to aircraft painting......

Here is a picture of the VS with two of the three colors.



I did note a new problem arising in the paint. I got a couple of fish eyes. @#$! Not bad enough to repaint, but enough to aggravate. I know that a few drops of water came from my gloves......THAT I FORGOT TO THOROUGHLY DRY.....

So on to the black accent strip. FISH EYES BY THE POUND>>>WHAT THE @#$!%^$#*&&#@#.

Update 3/14/2009................

After a month of a long and steep learning curve the fish eye problem has been solved. Too long a story for this post. Lets just say, "when ya got a problem go with the obvious"! In this case once the oil/water separater was put on correctly, all lines totally cleaned, new oil vapor separator purchased, new hose purchased, and many trial shoots the problem was solved ....for now....who knows what problems lurk in my paint booth er I mean garage. The following picture gives an indication of the 1O foot rule. Not to bad but the VS/Rudder will have a few anomalies having been painted before the fish eye fix. Not totally happy but as the saying goes, "it is what it is"....:
At least it will give those folks with the perfect plane something to talk about.



I repainted the black accent strip and N number yesterday. I was pretty happy with the outcome. I am way far away from being a pro painter but it has been interesting, educational, frustrating, hard work, but satisfying to not be too beat up by another of the aircraft building boogy men!!!!!!!!!!!

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... about to paint the HS/Elevator

 

[DakotaHawk]

I'm still considering using the AFS paint system and was wondering if you could tell me how much paint you used to paint your airplane.

LostPilot,

I''m using the Stewart Systems paint as well on my -7. I've completed the empennage, gear fairings, wheel pants, ailerons and flaps, fuel tanks, wing tips, and one wing. I have the base color on the second wing done as well. Still have to do the trim colors on the second wing, the fuselage and cowl, and some minor pieces such as access covers.

I purchased 1 gallon of my main two colors (Idaho Snow and Maroon), 1 quart of my trim color (Dawn Grey), and 1 pint of Federal Yellow.

Based on what I've used so far, and the items I still have to paint, I will finish with about 1 quart of Idaho Snow, 1 quart of Maroon, 1 pint of Dawn Grey, and almost all of the Federal Yellow left over.

As part of my paint purchase, I also purchased 1 quart of AFS concentrated cleaner and 1 quart of acid etch. My total bill was about $850.

Stewart Systems has several videos on YouTube which are very informative, but they have changed the way that they measure out the different parts of the paint. The video shows them using a viscosity cup to measure out water, and graduated cups to measure the Part A and Part B (paint and catalyst). The NEW way that they do it is based on weight. They recommend purchasing a postal scale and then weighing out 1 part of Part A, then divide Part A by 3.3 = Part B, then divide Part A by 2.75 = Water. This turns out to be very accurate and very easy to do. (I like easy!