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Over square CHT temperatures

Tankerpilot75

Well Known Member
I flew this weekend from KRQO (El Reno OK) to Huntsville Tx (nice flight) and back for a family reunion. I flew “over square” going down, as I believe Mike Bush recommends, and under square coming back for best power show. I noticed that when I’m over square my CHT on #3 hover around 402 and #4 around 385. The front two cylinders were in the 350 to 355 range. When I drop below “over square” manifold pressure for the return trip my CHT temperatures drop ten to twenty degrees across the board.

The engine now has close to fifty hours since tear down / rebuild and the addition of dual PMags. I recently clocked the PMags at three teeth (7.4 degrees) ATDC to lower CHTs because my temps were consistently running higher than I like on both #3 and #4. That did help! I’ve also done a GAMI check which resulted in #3 & #4 nozzles going from 0.028 to 0.0275 to better balance peak EGTs - which it did.

So here’s my brain trust question. Should I ignore Bush’s over square flying approach to keep #3 below 400 degrees at all times, or should I clock my timing another tooth (bringing it to 10 degrees ATDC), or try something else to lower #3 & #4 CHTs? It seems with PMags CHTs on those back two cylinders just want to run above 385 in cruise while #1 & #2 run 30 to 40 degrees cooler. Prior to this rebuild and the addition of PMags my back two cylinders never exceeded 385 degrees - period!
 
MAP is an indication of load. More load means more work which means more heat. Nothing wrong with that though. I am a believer that ign adv should always be at it's optimal setting for each mix of variables (MAP, RPM, mixture ratio), assuming that doesn't present detonation risk. That may bump CHT a bit. However, these planes can be made to make max power and not get that hot. My suggestion is to optimize ign adv and work on cooling air flow issues to get CHTs to desirable levels.

Please don't think in terms of square anything. Yes. low RPM and high MAP is more stress on the engine, but that doesn't mean it cannot handle it. Remember driving a stick? Ever try to floor it without downshifting first? That is lugging and tough on the engine, in addition to being pro detonation. We want to avoid that type of extreme, but this square stuff is nonsense. Made a good guideline for the supercharged radials that could make 40-45" of MAP, but has no place in normally aspirated engine use. REfer to Lyc charts for max RPM/MAP guidelines. They are very clear on where the line is for lugging. The line is called "Max continuous MAP or load IIRC. Every Lyc operating manual has a chart like this. That chart should be your guide vs the oversquare stuff that your instructor passed along. It is backed up by 100's of hours on the dyno vs an old rehashed piece of advice.

Just one mans opinion.
 
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402 is no biggie

So here’s my brain trust question. Should I ignore Bush’s over square flying approach to keep #3 below 400 degrees at all times, or should I clock my timing another tooth (bringing it to 10 degrees ATDC), or try something else to lower #3 & #4 CHTs?

There is nothing wrong with running a Lycoming cylinder a little over 400 degrees. Mike Busch and Lycoming agree on this. Busch says to start worrying at 420 (he recently called this the top of a Lycoming CHT "yellow arc"). That seems sensible to me, and is slightly more conservative than Lycoming's various recommendations.
 
I flew this weekend from KRQO (El Reno OK) to Huntsville Tx (nice flight) and back for a family reunion. I flew “over square” going down, as I believe Mike Bush recommends, and under square coming back for best power show.

Hey Jim,

What was your altitude, the OAT at that altitude, and lastly the MAP and RPM used for over/square operation.

Cheers!

Brian
 
Angle or parallel valve engine?
PMag jumpers in?

My typical flying is 95% of the time WOT at altitudes that are yielding less than 24”MP - so never explored the over square region other than take off and initial climb.

Carl
 
The place to start is with the CHT variation. 50 F difference is a lot.
It sounds like you’ve done the first step: adjust injectors so all cylinders are running the same mixture ratios.
Now you need to look at adjusting cooling air so the cht’s are more even. Have the front air dams been removed? Maybe replace them, to force more air to the back. Make sure cooling air can get between the cylinders and the aft baffle. etc.
 
Brian

Here’s a picture that I took on the flight down to Huntsville. Sorry for the orientation. Couldn’t figure out to rotate it. I can understand climb CHTs being higher but because I tend to climb at about 110 to 115 knots (2500 MP / 2500 RPM) my climb CHTs were actually lower than the over square cruise CHTs.

IMG_0019.jpg

Carl, jumpers “in”, timing set approximately 7.4 degrees ATDC, parallel valve.

Bob, front air dams in place to move the air more towards the back. Injectors are 1 = 0.0280, 2 = 0.0285, 3 & 4 = 0.0275. Don Rivera at Airflow Performance recommended I replace the 0.0280 nozzles on 3 & 4 with the leaner 0.0275 nozzles based on the GAMI (nozzle) test that I did. This was done to balance peak EGTs to within .3 gph ff. I’m going to reinstall a small washer behind #3 to hopefully get more airflow over that cylinder.

I also noticed when I lean to peak EGTs the engine feels like it’s sucking for fuel. It makes me not want to further lean to LOP operations.
 
pic..

adjusted the orientation for ya...
 

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....and there's a bit of a math/calibration issue...

The ambient/free stream pressure of the atmosphere at that altitude, on that day was 22.9629"hg. This means you have either the slickest/bad-a$$ induction system out there or your MAP calibration is off...by quite a bit (.84" or more).


https://grtavionics.com/media/MANPRES.pdf

and here's a weblink to handy set of tools:

https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/air-pressure-at-altitude

edit: the GRT percentage power display is also inaccurate. With that fuel flow, RPM, MAP (even not adjusted) - you are running at about 60% give or take. (per the book) (IO-360-B and -M parallel valve - 180HP)
 
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Jim,

Some thoughts:
- You are burning too much fuel for that speed. This tells me you are well ROP at that altitude (assuming your screen shot was taken in normal cruise) - perhaps this just how you fly based on leaning problems.
- There is no reason not to get your GAMI spread down to 0.1GPH. It just takes a few more data runs.
- When you do replace injector nozzles is suggest always finding the rich cylinder and going smaller on that as the first step. Fly more and repeat. The stock 0.028 nozzles are bigger than they need to be.
- For your engine there is no need to retard timing as you have done. It will lower CHTs but this is addressing the symptom, not the root problem. I time my pMags at TDC, never an issue with CHTs (IO-360-M1B).
- Agree on doing the washers behind #3 cylinder.
- Take a close look at the bottom of the cylinder to make sure the wraps are tight.

Go 20-30 degrees LOP and CHTs will come down a lot. When ready I suggest putting timing back up to normal and then see how it flys.

Carl
 
157 true at 10.2 says this particular arrangement of variables has no merit.

"Doctor, it hurts when I do this."

Ok, don't do that!"


Look at other operating points. Work on cowling and cooling. Calibrate your instruments.
 
Jim, what I see is that if your EGT display is showing how far lean of peak you are (numbers just above the EGT columns), which is what my grt displays in that location, something is off. In my 6 cylinder IO540 I’ll be running 10 gal/hr at similar MP and RPM but only 20 F LOP, not the nearly 100 you’re showing. I didn’t understand the comment about odd running approaching peak egt?? But at 10 g/hr FF I don’t think you’re LOP at all.
The power display (74%) will be an over estimate if LOP as it does not account for leaning, it assumes best power mixture I think.
 
Jim, what I see is that if your EGT display is showing how far lean of peak you are (numbers just above the EGT columns), which is what my grt displays in that location, something is off. In my 6 cylinder IO540 I’ll be running 10 gal/hr at similar MP and RPM but only 20 F LOP, not the nearly 100 you’re showing. I didn’t understand the comment about odd running approaching peak egt?? But at 10 g/hr FF I don’t think you’re LOP at all.
The power display (74%) will be an over estimate if LOP as it does not account for leaning, it assumes best power mixture I think.

Bob, those negative EGT numbers are ROP #! I’m still under 50 hours since rebuild I’m keeping it ROP (Popular Grove recommendation). My comments about it feeling sluggish at peak EGTs is more a concern about what will happen when I do go LOP in about ten hours.

Bjdecker, thanks for your MP calibration insights. I’ll look into this more.

Carl, originally it was set at TDC but I had a PMag problem and had to send one back to EMag for warranty repai (it wouldn’t go into program mode so they said they replaced a bearing to correct it). Since then I’ve been fighting the high CHT issues. After I get CHTs where I want them I’ll do another GAMI test.
 
For what it's worth

edit: the GRT percentage power display is also inaccurate. With that fuel flow, RPM, MAP (even not adjusted) - you are running at about 60% give or take. (per the book) (IO-360-B and -M parallel valve - 180HP)

I cannot get the percentage power display to read correctly on my GRT Horizon EX to save my life. Although I'm far (FAR) from ruling out my own idiocy, I'm beginning to think there may be an error in the software.
 
....In my 6 cylinder IO540 I’ll be running 10 gal/hr....

WHAT??? I have to get my oil cooler project completed and start flying higher because my IO-540 sucks gas at 20gph. :eek::eek::eek::eek: Well, I've always wanted top own a helicopter so my plane burns gas like a helicopter :cool:
 
Oh and this is what Mike Busch recommends regarding the Lycoming CHTs
 

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WHAT??? I have to get my oil cooler project completed and start flying higher because my IO-540 sucks gas at 20gph. :eek::eek::eek::eek: Well, I've always wanted top own a helicopter so my plane burns gas like a helicopter :cool:

I do pull 25 gal/hr on full power full rich near sea level takeoffs. But I typically cruise at 10.5K or 11.5K, LOP at 10 gal/hr, 160 ktas. Yes, I can make a bit over 170 ktas if I lean for best power. But there are a fair number of trips where 160 ktas gets me to the destination faster than 170 ktas — because I can skip an intermediate fuel stop.
 
I cannot get the percentage power display to read correctly on my GRT Horizon EX to save my life. Although I'm far (FAR) from ruling out my own idiocy, I'm beginning to think there may be an error in the software.

I have a Horizon Hx, followed the grt instructions even though I don’t really understand the physics behind them, and mine reads power correctly (that is, in agreement with Lycoming power charts) as long as I run the mixture at best power. Both the charts and grt’s algorithym make no corrections for any other mixture setting, so the power number is an over estimate for any mixture setting other than best power. A significant difference if you run LOP.
 
Observations on GRT Percent Power

I cannot get the percentage power display to read correctly on my GRT Horizon EX to save my life. Although I'm far (FAR) from ruling out my own idiocy, I'm beginning to think there may be an error in the software.

What I've found so far in my quest... (please feel free to pick these ideas apart, I'm quite open to improving my methodologies).

1) with GRT EIS-66R remote-mounted engine instrument the MAP sensor cannot be calibrated (confirmed in correspondence with Jeff DeFouw of GRT). I live with this error and manually subtract the 0.3" error from the displayed MAP

2) as a follow-on from 1), above, percent horsepower is also in error. After looking at the Lycoming power charts I've come up with a very rough rule of thumb. For low altitude operations between 60% & 80% power, every tenth of an inch of MAP error causes approximately a 1% error in indicated percent horsepower.

3) GRT makes no effort to include Fuel Flow in their percent horsepower calculations (confirmed through correspondence with Jeff DeFouw of GRT). With this in mind it is important to understand the GRT percent power indication is only accurate when the engine is running at "best power" mixture setting to match the data presented in the Lycoming power charts. The further we lean or enrichen beyond "best power" mixture, the more inaccurate the GRT percent power indication becomes.

4) This observation may (or may not) be unique to my particular O-360 (carb'd). The harder I run the engine the more uniform the CHT and EGT become. If I'm just dawdling around at 55% or 60% power I see large spreads in temperatures. If I push the power up to a true 75% the temperatures are almost a flat line across the screen.

I hope this information is at least somewhat helpful to others.
 
What I've found so far in my quest... (please feel free to pick these ideas apart, I'm quite open to improving my methodologies).

1) with GRT EIS-66R remote-mounted engine instrument the MAP sensor cannot be calibrated (confirmed in correspondence with Jeff DeFouw of GRT). I live with this error and manually subtract the 0.3" error from the displayed MAP

2) as a follow-on from 1), above, percent horsepower is also in error. After looking at the Lycoming power charts I've come up with a very rough rule of thumb. For low altitude operations between 60% & 80% power, every tenth of an inch of MAP error causes approximately a 1% error in indicated percent horsepower.

3) GRT makes no effort to include Fuel Flow in their percent horsepower calculations (confirmed through correspondence with Jeff DeFouw of GRT). With this in mind it is important to understand the GRT percent power indication is only accurate when the engine is running at "best power" mixture setting to match the data presented in the Lycoming power charts. The further we lean or enrichen beyond "best power" mixture, the more inaccurate the GRT percent power indication becomes.
,
4) This observation may (or may not) be unique to my particular O-360 (carb'd). The harder I run the engine the more uniform the CHT and EGT become. If I'm just dawdling around at 55% or 60% power I see large spreads in temperatures. If I push the power up to a true 75% the temperatures are almost a flat line across the screen.

I hope this information is at least somewhat helpful to others.
Interesting comments. Agree if GRT (which I have) calculates % power based on Lycs look up table based on MAP and RPM for best power, leaner or richer will be less power.

Carbs typically you can expect (not always) have less even EGT between jugs, but not always. FI can off injector mismatch and carbs sometimes hit a golden balance. Some find a slight application of carb heat can be used to balance carb'ed engine EGTs, your mileage may vary, pun intended. I don't think it is heat as much as the turbulence into the airbox may re-balance the flow. Carb has fuel air mixture going all the way through runner, and it starts out theoretically even before being divided 4 ways. However each jug has different intake port/valve characteristics due to manufacturing tolerances.

YES you will get uneven EGT on Carbs at lower power if the throttle is partly closed. The butterfly will bias fuel between the fwd vs rear bank of two intake runners. This is why it is BEST to fly above 8,000' (8500' or 9500' VFR hemispherical alt rules). This allows FULL wide open throttle, sub 75% allowing leaning.

Some boundary conditions on CHT and % power
  • No leaning above 75% power
  • CHT and OT are Limiting factors not EGT
  • RV design and build: Oil cooler, cowl, baffle, setup, installation deficiencies
  • Ambient temps.

So question what does % power mean (example GRT EIS). Mostly I see MAP and RPM as the driving variables. But you bring up a good point. Are you at best power (mixture) or economy (leaner). The difference can be small or well over 10%. But the reading will always be MAX, which is good.

Looking at the chart, with some assumptions it can be as much as 10% or more less power from best power mixture to ECON or over rich. So the good news is if you are leaning your indicated % power is higher than actual. Also if way over rich your % power indicated (GRT) is also going to be higher than actual. Great point. Of course we never want to be over rich (unless you are trying to cool your engine) and we want to lean with respect to the above boundary conditions and limits.

So if operating Rich of Peak (best power) or close, GRT % power is accurate. If LOP or way too rich, depending on altitude you could be 10% or much more lower than indicated % power on GRT EIS.

When I was a young pilot and feeling my wings, going on long distant cross country flights, I had to cross the Cascades typically if going EAST. So to top the range was +9000 feet. So right to +9,500 to 11,500 feet in small (low powered planes) was common. You can fly lower or even through the mountain passes below 6,000'. If you takeoff and don't lean as you climb at least starting at 8000 feet, you no climb-mee, at least to desired altitude. Keep in mind late 80's, GA plane, had RPM no MAP gauge, no fancy 8 channel CHT/EGT engine monitor. Once I realized I was not able to climb. you would not get to altitude.... I realized on one flight I could not climb well. Engine was drowning in fuel. I realized my error and leaned and POWER went up. Go figure.

Inaccurate indicated % power is critical only for rule #1, no leaning above 75 percent power. For the most part a GRT type derived MAP + RPM percent power indication will give you a safe point to start leaning. Again CHT and OT are also key and YOU MAY want to have an overly rich mixture for engine cooling. MOST of all you want to prevent a lean mixture at high power for detonation prevention which can be destructive to engine. I know most of you all know this but to the few which may be coming up in aviation may not know.
 
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Based on your picture of #1 and #2 being cool, while the rear CHTs are warmer, try a one inch piece of aluminum foil tape along the front two cylinders to help cool down the rear ones..
 
My Plan

I’ve ordered new baffling from ACS. The old baffling does have a few taped up cuts and a few folds that may be negatively impacting airflow. My current baffling is around 15 years old. I’ll also re-install a washer behind #3 to hopefully improve airflow. I will delay retiming to TDC until I see the effect of the new baffling.

Eric at GRT responded to my email in regards to MAP readings and agreed they are incorrect. He suggested I setup a tech support call with GRT and have a multimeter available while I’m at the airport. He indicated they have software available that with the appropriate multimeter readings taken can provide corrected SF and OFFSET numbers to recalibrate the MAP sensor. That good news!
 
I’ve ordered new baffling from ACS. The old baffling does have a few taped up cuts and a few folds that may be negatively impacting airflow. My current baffling is around 15 years old. I’ll also re-install a washer behind #3 to hopefully improve airflow. I will delay retiming to TDC until I see the effect of the new baffling.

Eric at GRT responded to my email in regards to MAP readings and agreed they are incorrect. He suggested I setup a tech support call with GRT and have a multimeter available while I’m at the airport. He indicated they have software available that with the appropriate multimeter readings taken can provide corrected SF and OFFSET numbers to recalibrate the MAP sensor. That good news!

Good deal.

On the flexible baffle seal material, don't let it pucker between the rivet heads along the baffle side & back walls -- keep it tight/no daylight; you may need to add some additional aluminum to act as a clamp to keep it tight.
 
Baffle doublers...
CHT never over 375 even on a hot day climb. Typically, 340-350ish.
(IO-375 w/9.6)
 

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Walt,

Why the layering of the baffling on the sides and solid on the back? Why not just solid on the sides too? This will be my first experience doing baffling.

I like the idea of using aluminum doublers on the inside, I was thinking about doing that.
 
Stock design and soft baffling against upper cowl works, but the solid dog house is better. It may add a tad more weight but it is also nicer on the cowling which no longer has to be a pressure plenum but now just a fairing. You can retro fit a dog house to existing baffle but have to be creative and talented in fabricating the interface between the cowl to dog house. It is not hard and can be done with the stock cowl inlets (verses the Sam James* round style inlets).

Before doing too much balancing of temps, make sure the temp sensors for CHT are accurate and connections are good. I found one that was out of tolerance. Bad data can lead to waste of time and effort.

*Sam James did not invent this, but he popularized it on the RV's. like LoPresti (Speed Merchant) did with his after market STC cowls for many certified planes.
 
Walt,

Why the layering of the baffling on the sides and solid on the back? Why not just solid on the sides too? This will be my first experience doing baffling.

I like the idea of using aluminum doublers on the inside, I was thinking about doing that.

Don't remember but for some reason the baffle would not lay flat on the cowl without buckling on the RH side, the LH side is mostly one piece (I added a pic of the LH side).
As for plenums, I see lots of aircraft that have plenums, no one has ever reported CHT's better than mine with the plenum.
Maybe plenums go faster, but I'll take the good cooling before an extra knot or two. I can fly 90kts all day with no cooling problems.
Van's did a good job on intake and cooling, why mess with it unless speed is your ultimate goal, but at the expense of cooling, no free lunch.
 
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After 3 and 1/2 tubes of Ultra Blue RTV (500F max) I think I've finally covered all leaks in my plenum. Some gaps were 1/2" to 3/4" wide, it's a miracle it worked at all and I expect better numbers this weekend.
 

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After 3 and 1/2 tubes of Ultra Blue RTV (500F max) I think I've finally covered all leaks in my plenum. Some gaps were 1/2" to 3/4" wide, it's a miracle it worked at all and I expect better numbers this weekend.

C -

You want to make sure that the air can flow down through the fins on the heads.

B
 
C -

You want to make sure that the air can flow down through the fins on the heads.

B

Definitely, thanks ! I'm going to clean it up a little before I install the plenum cover but when you look straight down from the top all cylinder fins have clear contact with the air.
 
After 3 and 1/2 tubes of Ultra Blue RTV (500F max) I think I've finally covered all leaks in my plenum. Some gaps were 1/2" to 3/4" wide, it's a miracle it worked at all and I expect better numbers this weekend.

Ain't gonna win no awards with that!
 
Ain't gonna win no awards with that!

If you see the rest of the 54 year old plane, it's not a show stopper when it comes to beauty, but it does the job and that's all I want it to do. Plus it's a one of a kind comfortable 4 person STOL plane with a 1969 model airframe and a 2004 model engine (replaced the Russian 260hp radial with a souped up Lycoming 325hp IO-540).

I've owned a few beautiful aircraft before but it's not as enjoyable when I'm more worried about if my paint is going to get scratched because of that dust on it from last night, than how much fun it is to fly. I'm going here more for the cool factor over the 50' paint job, because it really does look awesome from 50' away ! :D

As soon as the used RV15s start to hit the market I'll be buying one of those too because this thing does suck a lot of gas :eek:
 

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If you see the rest of the 54 year old plane....[snip] As soon as the used RV15s start to hit the market I'll be buying one of those too because this thing does suck a lot of gas :eek:

Awesome thread drift...

71701-just-couple-quick-questions-about-1-6-build-train-drifting.jpg
 
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CHT / BAFFLES UPDATE

Last week I installed new baffling. Flew today and what a difference! All CHTs stayed below 370 degrees during climb, cruise, stalls and even slow flight. They also stayed within 20 degrees of each other in all phases of flight. When I change oil next month I’ll return the PMags timing back to TDC.

The high MP sensor reading was also confirmed as a sensor problem. When I return next month from visiting my Navy son and his family, I will establish a time with GRT to accomplish a recalibration of the sensor’s auxSF and auxOFF settings. Positive progress, gotta love it!��

Big thanks to Walt Aronow for posting the two pictures of his baffling. That really helped!
 
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Last week I installed new baffling. Flew today and what a difference! All CHTs stayed below 370 degrees during climb, cruise, stalls and even slow flight. They also stayed within 20 degrees of each other in all phases of flight. When I change oil next month I’ll return the PMags timing back to TDC.

The high MP sensor reading was also confirmed as a sensor problem. When I return next month from visiting my Navy son and his family, I will establish a time with GRT to accomplish a recalibration of the sensor’s auxSF and auxOFF settings. Positive progress, gotta love it!��

Big thanks to Walt Aronow for posting the two pictures of his baffling. That really helped!

Great news, congrats !! I also took a flight a few days ago after using a total of almost 4 tubes of RTV to patch up all the plenum air leaks and fabricating a cylinder baffle my engine was missing, and my CHTs were about 50degrees lower. I was also able to lean aggressively for the first time and the CHT temps all stayed below 375 and the oil temp below 200 the entire flight !! Can't wait to install a vernier type mixture cable to lean it even better.
 
I'm not totally familiar with pMags; does this mean that the spark advance will be 25°BTDC?

PMags are normally timed at TDC. However If one is having cooling problems the manufacturer suggests retardng the timing 2-3 degrees ATDC. The programmed advance will actually take them beyond 25 degrees (34 degrees with the “jumper” in and running the A curve). The A curve is less aggressive than the B curve which can advance as much as 39 degrees. I’m not real literate in this area but I just k now the magic works!
 
Thought I would post pictures of my new baffling. I also installed the “Blast Tube Mounting Kit” from ExperimentalAero. It was extremely easy to install. Paul Merems’ kit is well worth the money.

IMG_1163.jpg

Sorry for the orientation. Haven’t figured out to rotate attachments.
 
Did you re-do the whole baffles (metal) or just the rubber seals? Do you have a list of what you changed? I still struggle with high climb-out CHTs, and am always looking for little tips to try.
 
Did you re-do the whole baffles (metal) or just the rubber seals? Do you have a list of what you changed? I still struggle with high climb-out CHTs, and am always looking for little tips to try.

Ryan, I have silicone rubber lipstick red baffle seals, not a drop of RTV anywhere, and my CHTs are low (rarely over 400F). My oil temps are very low. I'm running an AFP FM200 with Pmags, timed like this:

ADV max: 32.2
ADV shf: -1.4

IMG_9282-1024x1024.jpeg

http://www.rv8.ch/ei-commander-and-p-mags/

My point is that if your baffles are holding in the air, and you still have cooling issues, then slight improvements in baffling might not solve the problem - perhaps check fuel delivery or timing.

One area of baffling that was "baffling" to me is the area around the prop. I think I got it right, but I've seen pictures of aircraft with what looks to be backwards seals or other things that might be letting a lot of air out.
 
"High" and "low" are not very useful when describing cooling problems or cures. Numbers have value, as do operating conditions, most important of all, airspeed. Dynamic pressure is a function of velocity squared. I'm not discounting the need for good baffling and sealing, but a lot of owners just climb too slow. The laws of physics make exceptions for no man.

Examples below. Spreadsheets show available dynamic pressure given Standard Day conditions at 100 and 125 knots true. The far right columns list how much of that dynamic pressure is available above the engine at 0.85 Cp and 0.70 Cp (coefficient of pressure). Those are pretty much the upper and lower end values for the majority of the fleet. Where you are on that scale mostly depends on inlet quality and baffling leakage, or lack thereof.

Let's use the Cp values for baffle pressure drop, which means assuming no lower cowl pressure, i.e. a very large exit area. For this example I picked 5000 feet and plotted the values on a Lycoming chart for the 180HP 360. The vertical green line is standard day OAT. Where the red and green lines intersect indicates the expected CHT.

The 100 knot example pushes CHT above 435F even if power is down to 75%. The chart tells us the low pressure can only push 1.5 to 1.75 lbs of air per second through the fins.

Now look at the 125 knot charts. Expected CHT is much lower than 435F, because mass flow is at 2 lbs or so even with a crappy 0.70 Cp. It's around 2.2 at 0.85 Cp.

There's a caveat with the Lycoming cooling charts. The data is empirical, taken from a long ago engine on the dyno, using what Lycoming considered to be "standard baffling". Given we don't know much about their baffles, we can't treat the charts as indicating exact results for our installations. That's ok; we can assume all the trends are the same.

One additional caveat. The dynamic pressures and resulting plenum pressures shown here reflect only forward airspeed. A good inlet/propeller combination can significantly boost pressure. A STOL aircraft at very slow forward airspeed and very high AOA is almost entirely dependent on the velocity in propeller outflow.
.
 

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Did you re-do the whole baffles (metal) or just the rubber seals? Do you have a list of what you changed? I still struggle with high climb-out CHTs, and am always looking for little tips to try.

I just did the rubber seal using the example that Walt Aronow’s pictures provided, installed the blast tube inlets that I described, and fabricated two air dams in front of cylinders 1&2 that you see in the picture to help direct more air to the back two cylinders. Cylinders 1&2 temperatures were not negatively impacted by the two air dams.

I didn’t replace the metal baffles but I did seal up a few loose side metal baffle seams with a couple of rivets, RTV and metal tape. I also reinstalled a small washer behind #3 cylinder head between the head and metal baffle to allow more airflow around that head. Theses changes significantly improved (lowered) my CHT temperatures. So much so that I’m now going to return PMag timing to the recommended 0 degrees TDC.
 
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