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NACA Vent Sealant - Pro-seal or RTV - What are you using?
- Thread starter jimzap
- Start date
No rivets for my vents either. But the pre-punched holes were drilled, deburred, and dimpled. The vent flanges were countersunk, and I used JB Weld to mount them. Clecos held them in place while the epoxy cured. Removed the clecos and filled up the dimples with freshly mixed JB Weld. Viola! Adhesive bond and cast-in-place mechanical lock.
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bruceh
Well Known Member
Only 11 years on mine. Stuck them on with proseal, no rivets. No issues either!
fixnflyguy
Well Known Member
Proseal for sure
Proseal will hold them by itself, but I threw in a few soft "0" solid rivets for extra measure. Proseal is compatible with everything and paintable and can be smoothed into the seam nicely . I don't recommend any type of RTV.
Proseal will hold them by itself, but I threw in a few soft "0" solid rivets for extra measure. Proseal is compatible with everything and paintable and can be smoothed into the seam nicely . I don't recommend any type of RTV.
I do not like pro-seal….
3M 5200 is an excellent adhesive/sealant for bonding things like fiberglass, plastic and metal. It’s designed with marine conditions in mind, but works well on aviation hulls too. It has a very high tensile strength and is available at most hardware stores in black, white and mahogany colors… MUCH easier to work with than P-S and more applicable when not dealing with a fuel tank. It is not silicone and is paintable.
The only downside is that the standard cure takes about 3 days to achieve full strength, but provides a ”tough, yet flexible, polyurethane polymer” retention and seal for things like ducts and vents.
3M 5200 is an excellent adhesive/sealant for bonding things like fiberglass, plastic and metal. It’s designed with marine conditions in mind, but works well on aviation hulls too. It has a very high tensile strength and is available at most hardware stores in black, white and mahogany colors… MUCH easier to work with than P-S and more applicable when not dealing with a fuel tank. It is not silicone and is paintable.
The only downside is that the standard cure takes about 3 days to achieve full strength, but provides a ”tough, yet flexible, polyurethane polymer” retention and seal for things like ducts and vents.
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[email protected]
Well Known Member
Recently replace both of mine in an RV-6.
They were initially installed in 2001 with Proseal and I installed the new ones with Proseal
Just cleaned and roughed up everything up good, thin coat on both parts and held them in place with masking tape till it cured.
Worked real good, Wiped down the outside with thinner to smooth out, Painted
All done
Oh ya as a side note. If you ever have or want to remove/replace them the Proseal method works great. Just apply some heat, then use a very thin putty knife and you can just slice them off.
My luck varies Fixit
They were initially installed in 2001 with Proseal and I installed the new ones with Proseal
Just cleaned and roughed up everything up good, thin coat on both parts and held them in place with masking tape till it cured.
Worked real good, Wiped down the outside with thinner to smooth out, Painted
All done
Oh ya as a side note. If you ever have or want to remove/replace them the Proseal method works great. Just apply some heat, then use a very thin putty knife and you can just slice them off.
My luck varies Fixit
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+1. ~same amount of time. Don't forget to make a nice fillet on the outside where the vent and skin touch, where the proseal is (barely) visible, so it looks good after painting.
