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Jacking RV-8

SuperCubDriver

Well Known Member
I was thinking about how to lift my -8 to install the jackpoints which I got recently. I came up with another idea which I feel is save and good at least in the own hangar. I did put a little weight on the opposite wing to stabilize everything.
So I made an adapter out of an aluminum block, padded it on one side and milled a round hole in the other side for the jack. The adapter slides on the gear leg under the fuselage and is locked and can not move.







 
I notice you have a WW 200Rv on your RV7 and a 74RV on the RV8. I'm in the market to replace my CS Hartzell and would appreciate your comment based on your experiences to date please
 
Harvey,
Based upon my experience I can recommend both props. They are top quality and I would buy them again.
I also replaced a Hartzell CS Prop with the 200RV because I was not sure about harmonics, Hartzell was not interested in doing a vibration test on my engine - too expensive and the variables are too many - Compr. ratio, type of ignition, induction system and so on...
Now - I don?t have an approved engine-prop combination but it is said that carbon is dampening harmonics and has a different/higher resonant frequency, while a metal prop will be destroyed in a short time when the combination hits it?s resonant frequency.
You see I don?t have hard facts but just feel better with the carbon props because my engines are not standard.

The Whirlwind props both have a 650h/5 year recommended overhaul limit while the Hartzell has much longer operating hours. This might not be a problem and depends on how much are you flying.

The Whirlwind props are lighter and so can increase your payload, but some airplanes are happy with the weight up front because of aft C/G limits when loading.

Light props can kickback easier, I am having Pmags and they fire 4 deg after TDC on startup for this very reason. I never had kickbacks with the Hartzell.

The low pitch stop adjustment is a bit more difficult on the Whirlwinds and very easy on the Hartzell. This has to be done only once however.

There is no lubrication required on the Whirlwinds, the Hartzell requires grease every 100h.

The spinner bulkhead on the Whirlwinds needs a larger opening in the cowl to clear it. I had to narrow the cowl lip to clear the spinner bulkhead. The spinner to mounting flange distance is exactly the same, so the spinner to cowl gap will be the same. This all depends however on what you actually have now.

I would say the Hartzell is easier to repair in the field, but I don?t have the slightest damage on the nickel leading edges, they are very hard.

Hope this helps you make the right decision.
 
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