Larry, I will through in some comments to weigh. Basics-an oil filter, nearly all, are a 30 micron filter designed to take out some average of particles. Many smaller ones will get caught and no big ones will pass (if they make it through the screen). Particles come from all sorts of parts, more when freshly rebuild/built, but when in operation, more comes from particles in the air scraped off the cylinder walls from the air stream for combustion. So is that bad? Well, it is a relative thing. Like Katie noted for a tractor, it would be very bad in dusty conditions. Here in the Midwest with lots of exposed ground, dust is unavoidable. If you lived in costal areas or in forested areas, then the air will not leave that dust layer on your car as much as midwest. Much of the midwest dust is silica and the particles are very hard. Hard particles in the oil just wear things, all things. Again, it is relative.
Factually, but from memory, oil contamination (particles) will gradually increase with operating time. It may take 25 hours to reach stabilization. With a clean system it may take 100. If we set aside the protection for random particles that could score bearings, then theoretically, one would be no better off with filter if oil was changed as the particle count passed that stabilization threshold. Quantifying that threshold would take some/many oil analyses. If you do that get Deere or CAT oil analysis as they are much lower cost. (and they don't come with a nice analysis commentary like Blackstone)
So - a good air filter (whole other topic) and regular (25hr) oil changes would only leave the random risk of errant hard stuff in a bearing. However, a good air filter will be paper, with perfect sealing. Fact. So, living in the desert, around counties full of corn fields, an oil filter would be strongly recommended.
For decades I wondered about exactly wear and engine life issues were vs oil particles level. Engine companies test components with dirty oil (good ones do). Oil at the end of its life, laden with particles. They even have spec particles to add to clean oil now to provide a known repeatable test. Seeing parts from clean and "dirty" oil, convinced me that filters are good. By pass filters with 2-5 micron filtration will definitely extend the life of wear related (not temperature) failure modes.
Round in circles: All that said, it is hard to quantify the difference, you might half the life of your crank, and if you have a slipper cam, lifters and camshaft too. You might know it through scoring, or just wear. So, the engine will likely still go to TBO, but more parts will be closer to replacement specs in the end. The same old "pay me now or pay me later" scenario. Frequent oil changes are a good thing w/o oil filters, and analysis will greatly help tune that in.
Now to decide. Personally, I would use an oil filter, but I would not talk bad about a guy who chose differently knowing the tradeoffs.