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Elevator Tips, Lead, Fiberglass

S

StuBob

Well Known Member
I've finished the empennage except for fiberglass, and the wings won't be here for a month. It must be time to learn about fiberglass. I'd appreciate any direction in finding websites (especially video) about it. YouTube shows nothing when searching "Van's Aircraft Fiberglass" or similar.

I spent a long time talking to a guy at West Marine. I think I'm to the point where I can get started on some practice pieces, but here's the pressing issue:

What to do with the forward ends of the horizontal stabilizer tips? I can get the end glassed or Bondoed or whatever, but that leaves the lead inaccessible. But I'll have to drill the lead before I can fly. So, do I leave it uncovered until paint time? Glass over the lead and drill through it?

Thanks in advance.
 
Fiberglass

One of my favorite suppliers for FG and Epoxy is Raka.com.

I like to use a variety of tapes for most of the RV stuff.
Check it out.

Lead: see if any of the plumbers around you have any left.

Keith
RV7 0-320D2a, EFII ignition, Catto Prop. Mgl Explorer, Trig, Navworx
1020 pounds, no fuel all finished even 1 qt paint,
142 hours
 
I learned how to put on the glass by looking at other builders web sites.
Wear rubber gloves, safety glasses, and mask.
Step 1, cover everything with mold release wax.
Step 2, make a mold out of clay. For large open areas like the canopy skirt I used cardboard and clear packing tape. Epoxy will not stick to clear packing tape.
Step 3, cut the glass mat bigger than the needed, I like at least 1/2" extra on each edge. I cut it with a normal scissors, but a cicular knife that looks like a pizza cutter but has a razor edge works better.
Step 4 lay out wax paper larger than the fiberglass and lay the fiberglass on the wax paper.
Step 5 mix up the epoxy and pour it on the fiberglass, make sure to get it all wet. Then cover it with wax paper.
Step 6 use a plastic body filler spreader and go over the wax paper to squeegie out the extra epoxy.
Step 7 Peel off the wax paper and apply the fiberglass to the mold you made and let dry. Try to remove any bulbles between layers of glass and the mold. I used a pick if I could not work them out to the edge
Note that your work surface must be clean, oil and grease free...
I used epoxy that had a 60 minute working time so I had lots of time to work the glass. Once you do it a couple of times you can use epoxy that has shorter working times..
I was very chicken to it at first. But it all turned out good..
 
Thanks, guys.

But what about the lead? If, after glassing over the counterweights, you later find you need to remove some lead, how do you get at it?
 
StuBob said:
Thanks, guys.

But what about the lead? If, after glassing over the counterweights, you later find you need to remove some lead, how do you get at it?
Click to expand...

Usually, you need to *add* weight (especially after paint)...for that, rivet in a nutplate on the inside of the tooling hole on the rib, and later you can add a bolt with several washers to increase the counterbalance weight.
 
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