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Bungled Rivet F-705 Bulkhead (Quickbuild Fuse)

B

b432291

Active Member
On the Quickbuild RV-7/7A Fuse you still have to install the AN470AD4 Rivets in the upper right and left corners of the F-705 bulkhead assembly because of the differences between the tip-up and sliding canopy. Because Van's has assembled most of the metalwork in this area (including the skin) riveting the F-705F top channel to the F-705D & F-705E side channel/doubler is quite difficult. After a misdrill on a rivet removal I now have a hole thats way too big for a AD4 rivet.
Because of the tightness of the area, I would really prefer to open the hole to 5/32 and use a NAS623 structural screw instead of the rivet, because there just is not the room for easy riveting here. Is this a big no-no? Would I have to worry about Steel/Aluminum Corrosion if I did?
 
Quickbuild or slow, that top channel gets riveted after the skins are on, etc. (I forget why now...maybe had to do with the roll bar installation?) It's tricky, but not impossible...much easier with a partner, and careful use of an angled rivet set (never really liked those, tendency to "walk" off the rivet head).

You'd probably be okay opening it up and using any appropriate AN or NAS screw, or even an AN3 bolt, though. A quick call to Van's in the morning would be definitive, though.

Just make sure you do the same on both sides...for symmetry :)
 
I managed to do the Pilots Side ok (and most of the critical 9 rivets at the top require the angled driver), but todays work on the co-pilots side didn't go so well...
 
It's a booger, that's for sure...I hate gumption-robbers like that. Everything going along fine, then all of a sudden..."aw, cr*p". Hang in there!
 
One option you could do is install a NAS1241AD4 rivet. It's a 1/64" oversize AN426 repair rivet. It depends on how big the hole is now, these are effectively "half-size" diameter rivets with the same head diameter as a AN426. And as long as you have 2D edge distance on the AN426 then it should be ok.
 
While the NAS rivet would probably be OK (the hole isn't that bad), I fear I would bungle the driving/bucking of it like I did the last 2 rivets in that hole. I've had to get the dremel out to polish the smiles I've left from some of the other rivets too. The offset/tight fit rivet set is pretty tricky. It's just incredably tight in this section, and I'd rather use a bolt (if I can).
 
Good luck

They are a bugger even on a slow build.
I smeared a couple of 470's on the first try and went off and sulked for a day or two. Came back, drilled them out, polished and repainted and did much better the second go.

My wife helped, because as mentioned, the angled rivet sets are prone to walking. I have to use 2 hands on the gun and set combo to keep it all straight.

She asked why we redid them and I said "If I was a DAR, that's one of the first places I would look. If the builder could make those pretty, I could be assured everything else was OK" :)
 
I did get the OK from Joe at Vans this morn to use a NAS623-2 Structural Screw in this particular rivets place. The rivet in question can't be seen, and I know I won't bugger the metal any more.
 
What washer or nut did you use with the screw? What was the original rivet length that went with that location?
 
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