Page 10-11, Step 2. "Match drill all the common holes of the F-1073 Side Skins into the F-1032 Longerons using a 3/32" drill"
Do they really want me to use a 3/32 drill for these? usually the plans say use a #40 bit.
Page 10-11, Step 2. "Match drill all the common holes of the F-1073 Side Skins into the F-1032 Longerons using a 3/32" drill"
Step #3 then says to final drill all holes in skins to frame with #40. I THINK they want you to use 3/32" bit on initial drill just to make de-burring easier, but not really sure why you can't just drill #40 to start and deal with larger burrs. In order to dimple or counter-sink, holes will need to be drilled at #40 just for the counter sink bit or dimple die to fit in. That pilot knob on the CS bit and dimple die will force the hole open to #40 even if you don't drill them out to #40.
If I recall, I followed the plans (3/32" match drill step 2, #40 final drill step 3) but felt it was redundant.
In order to dimple or counter-sink, holes will need to be drilled at #40 just for the counter sink bit or dimple die to fit in.
FWIW I emailed Van's and Sterling said "no big deal". Carry on.
Since you're using a hand held drill on a relatively (compared to the skin) thick piece, you'll get a slightly better hole with the 3/32" -#40 procedure than just going #40 from the start. Some carry this one step further and use a reamer for the final finish.
I think the reason for the 3/32" first with just the side skin in place, is so that once the top skins are put in place and attached you final drill them with a #40.