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  #21  
Old 10-10-2013, 10:53 PM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
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Location: Arlington, TX (DFW)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1rocket View Post
Can't help you on the sealant. I've never found it necessary on any of my previous airplanes.

The most surefire way to avoid cracking involves a couple of steps during construction. First, always use a drill bit for plexiglass and go slow. Second, countersink with sufficient depth to ensure the skin will fully nestle down in the countersink without touching the plexi. Then third, overdrill the hole size to allow for a short piece of rubber tubing to fit over the screw shaft as it passes through the plexi. This seems to work for me and all my previous projects.
Randy,
I'm at the point of permanently mounting my rear window. Are you going to use your idea (above) of the rubber tubing through the holes?
Helped some friends strip down their -12 last night for annual, and they are seeing some crazing, eminating outward from some of the rear holes. I'm liking your tubing idea.
Are you still going to use the tubing on your aircraft?
Thank you-
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Gary Robertson
Arlington, TX

RV-12 Built / Sold / Flying
Currently Flying: Cessna Skyhawk 172
Rebuilding a true barn find J-3 Cub
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  #22  
Old 10-11-2013, 07:04 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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Location: Peel, AR
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I would still do the metal tape thing and silicone in the holes if I was doing it over. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...2&postcount=67
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  #23  
Old 10-11-2013, 11:03 PM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
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Location: Arlington, TX (DFW)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txaviator View Post
Randy,
I'm at the point of permanently mounting my rear window. Are you going to use your idea (above) of the rubber tubing through the holes?
Helped some friends strip down their -12 last night for annual, and they are seeing some crazing, eminating outward from some of the rear holes. I'm liking your tubing idea.
Are you still going to use the tubing on your aircraft?
Thank you-
Quote:
Originally Posted by f1rocket View Post
Can't help you on the sealant. I've never found it necessary on any of my previous airplanes.

The most surefire way to avoid cracking involves a couple of steps during construction. First, always use a drill bit for plexiglass and go slow. Second, countersink with sufficient depth to ensure the skin will fully nestle down in the countersink without touching the plexi. Then third, overdrill the hole size to allow for a short piece of rubber tubing to fit over the screw shaft as it passes through the plexi. This seems to work for me and all my previous projects.

****Edit: the crazing I mentioned above, small 'spider cracks' around the screw hole(s) was WAY over on the pilot side. Far beyond the reach of any fuel possibly ever reaching it!
Thank you-
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Gary Robertson
Arlington, TX

RV-12 Built / Sold / Flying
Currently Flying: Cessna Skyhawk 172
Rebuilding a true barn find J-3 Cub
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  #24  
Old 10-12-2013, 06:10 AM
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f1rocket f1rocket is offline
 
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Gary,

Yes I am. You and I are neck and neck in the building. We seem to hit the same steps at the same time. I just finished up painting the interior this weekend and plan to install the window early next week.

I will buy some flexible rubber tubing that fits the screw shank and then drill up the window to the OD of the tubing. I'll cut little inserts the thickness of the plexi and use them as bushings.
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Randy Pflanzer
Martinsville, IN (II87)

www.pflanzer-aviation.com
Paid through 2043!
Lund fishing Boat, 2017, GONE FISHING
RV-12 - Completed 2014, Sold
427 Shelby Cobra - Completed 2012, Sold
F1 EVO - partially completed, Sold
F1 Rocket - Completed 2005, Sold
RV-7A - Partially completed, Sold
RV-6 - Completed 2000, Sold
Long-EZ - Completed 1987, Sold

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  #25  
Old 10-12-2013, 08:09 AM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1rocket View Post
Gary,

Yes I am. You and I are neck and neck in the building. We seem to hit the same steps at the same time. I just finished up painting the interior this weekend and plan to install the window early next week.

I will buy some flexible rubber tubing that fits the screw shank and then drill up the window to the OD of the tubing. I'll cut little inserts the thickness of the plexi and use them as bushings.
Excellent, Randy. Thanks! I believe I'll follow suit and do the same. Like you mentioned earlier, if it has worked well for you in the past on many-many builds, it's sure worth trying again on these -12's.
I appreciate the tips!
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Gary Robertson
Arlington, TX

RV-12 Built / Sold / Flying
Currently Flying: Cessna Skyhawk 172
Rebuilding a true barn find J-3 Cub
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  #26  
Old 10-14-2013, 12:12 AM
jonjonjon4 jonjonjon4 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 10
Default Spilling fuel

Seems to be a common problem. I have a Goat-throat pump for 3 x 25 litre (6.6 gal) Scepter Containers on order for that very reason - to avoid spills.
I have also thought that maybe a 10mm wide 1.5mm thick (or less) adhesive (on one side) closed cell foam tape stuck to the fuse around the window would provide some elasticity, a weather seal and remove the need for tight screws.
Anyone out there ready to shoot me down for these ideas - fire away please.
John
Oz.
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  #27  
Old 10-17-2013, 09:04 AM
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f1rocket f1rocket is offline
 
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I installed my rear window yesterday and I enlarged the mounting holes and used rubber spacers as described in my previous post. I found some Bing fuel line that fit the #6 screw shanks perfectly and the OD was 1/4", which matched a plexi drill bit I had. After mounting the window, I can see why there are cracks and crazing around the screw holes. The window is a perfect fit but getting it installed all the way tends to put some stress on the screws and the holes.

I mounting all the screws loosely at first until I got them all started in the inserts. Then I pushed the window around to get all the bushings seated and aligned, then tightened down the screws. Worked perfectly.

I still need to go back and loosen up one side at a time and apply the fuel tank sealant. I'll do that once I get the canopy fitted.
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Randy Pflanzer
Martinsville, IN (II87)

www.pflanzer-aviation.com
Paid through 2043!
Lund fishing Boat, 2017, GONE FISHING
RV-12 - Completed 2014, Sold
427 Shelby Cobra - Completed 2012, Sold
F1 EVO - partially completed, Sold
F1 Rocket - Completed 2005, Sold
RV-7A - Partially completed, Sold
RV-6 - Completed 2000, Sold
Long-EZ - Completed 1987, Sold

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  #28  
Old 11-18-2017, 12:02 PM
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rongawer rongawer is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 236
Default Recent update

Quote:
Originally Posted by skydiverlv View Post
According to manufacturer, gasoline will dissolve the polymers in Lexel. Not a wise choice for the 12
While searching for a sealant to install my Makrolon rear window in my RV-12, I was looking for good sealant and came across this thread. Considering that Lexel is recommended for sealing both acrylic and polycarbonate, I was interested until I saw this posting. So, I read the SDS, the tech data, the brochure and found nothing from the manufacturer that states this. I also noted that the product is 15-40% naphtha (petroleum) and toluene.

I then contacted Sascho, who makes Lexel Clear, and they said that while they would not recommend it for sealing a fuel tank, as extended contact will soften the polymer strings, however incidental contact by fuel (such as splashed fuel) should not be a problem.

The advantage of this product over Fuel Tank Sealant is that it’s much easier to remove should the day arise the window needs replacing.

I used Lexel Clear to seal my rear window and was easy to use and looks great.
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Ron Gawer

- RV12, N975G, SN 120840, Build in progress...finishing up.
- BE58, N1975G, stimulating the economy one flight at a time.
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  #29  
Old 11-19-2017, 08:51 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,132
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I donít know what you guys are planning to do with the sealant, but consider what a problem it might be if you ever have to replace the rear window. I didnít put any sealant on the contact urface between plex and aluminum. Instead I masked a line 1/8Ē from the aluminum edge and applied clear RTV. I pulled the tape up before the RTV set and got a great inconspicuous seal at the edge. When I replaced my flat lexan window with the new molded one it came out with no problems. I sealed the new one with the same method.
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