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Longerons

steve wyman

Well Known Member
Is anybody else having as much fun with page 23-02 as I am? Bending those fuselage longerons is a bear to put it mildly- my dog has acquired a lot of new words lately! I have a large, very solid workbench and large vise, and it's still no easy task- I don't know how you guys building on a couple of card tables in your garage are managing this task. Steve
 
AGREE !

Yep, Steve, those are tons of fun. I have a very heavy 6" vise, and it still was no fun to do them. They want to twist at the same time also. You have not gotten to the really fun part yet likely, drilling all the holes in them after you get them bent. I am happy they fit anyway.

I am stilll waiting for the tail Kit. You must have gotten your order in fairly quickly.

John Bender
Iowa
 
Steve,

While bending you must keep matching it up with the curve of the top piece and that piece has to stay at the same location on the longeron. If youre not careful, when you go to put it on the fuse...all matched up you will find yourself too long or short at the rear end of the longeron where you hook up the tailcone. I just did mine an inch at a time...took it all apart, matched it up, then put it back in the vice...very slow and annoying....but it worked.

Pete
 
Any other words of wisdom? I've been beating these things for 2 hours and barely have 3 inches done. I'm just talking about "flattening" the angles.
 
previous longeron thread

I posted a question on how to better open the angle a couple weeks ago and ended up following the recommendation provided by Steve Wyman.

See this thread: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=39010

This worked well for me and I was able to complete this portion of the longeron shaping in about 20 minutes per longeron.

Like some others, I found the longeron fabrication to be one of the more frustrating and time consuming steps so far in the entire construction. Everytime you think you have the curve right, you find it is no longer flat on top but when you flatten it, the curve changes. You eventually get there by working back and forth a bit at a time!
 
Just finished my longerons a day ago. See my blog. I tried to open the angle with a 3/4" piece of pipe, scrap angle and the vise, but, it would not budge. Guess my vise is not big enough or the threads are too coarse. Resorted to using a 3# sledge. BUT, put a piece of sacrificial angle on top of the longeron before beating on it. Take it VERY slow and measure each iteration.
 
Used a press to open up the angle and a shrinker to put the long bend/curve the longeron, it was still a lot of work but a standard shrinker did the job and was easier than the vise. Don't bend the tail end in to much, it will suck the skin in some when riveting. Of course you can always shim it out if needed. Ours did. :) Larry
 
I went to the local Harbor Freight and bought a BFH (Big Freakin Hammer) 5# soft face. Made quick work of it. When all else fails....get a bigger hammer.

I agree, this longeron thing has been the worst of the build, other than looking for a Metric Cresent wrench. ;)
 
LONGERONS

i am not at this point yet, but I wondered if annealing the angle by the "soot" method would work? I made some unbelieveable bends in aluminum angle when making a camper and couldn't help but speculate if this might make this part easier. Comments?
 
i am not at this point yet, but I wondered if annealing the angle by the "soot" method would work? I made some unbelieveable bends in aluminum angle when making a camper and couldn't help but speculate if this might make this part easier. Comments?

It is NOT a good idea to weaken this major structural part by anealing it.
 
i am not at this point yet, but I wondered if annealing the angle by the "soot" method would work? I made some unbelieveable bends in aluminum angle when making a camper and couldn't help but speculate if this might make this part easier. Comments?

Longeron - major structural member in an RV-12 fuselage

They could be anneald, but can you be sure they have,or know when they have, work hardened back the the T6 condition (The fuselage was designed with a specific material strength in mind)?

If not, then you have just built an RV-12 fuselage with substandard structural strength.
 
bending longerons

Somewhere in a thread far far away someone made some bending dies out of wood. I took that idea a bit further and built some 6061-T6 dies with my cnc mill.

They worked great bending my RV7A longerons using a fairly heavy 4" vise.
bendingdies.jpg

bendingprocess.jpg


The slot for the horizontal longeron flange keeps the twisting to a minimum and the bend is very smooth. The dies are capable of slightly overbending, so you start at one end and clamp the vise down, relase the pressure, pull the longeron out an inch or so and repeat.
bentlongeron.jpg


I made 5 copies and they are available for $25 plus shipping. We will see what the response is like if we make some more. send me a pm.
 
I'll take a set!

I always thought "Pound to fit, Paint to match" was an old aviation joke...NOT.

Everything else on the kit has been great, but this #@%* operation. I was about ready to just sell out until I saw this post.

PM sent! Where do I pay!

Mitch Garner

RV4 flying
RV12..working on wings
 
Of all of the parts in the -12 IMHO the longerons were the most frustrating. I hated beating on them! I would gladly have paid someone to make them for me.
 
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I am not sure that the curve radius of the longerons on an RV-12 are the same as those on an RV-7....but it might be.
 
Well well - haven't seen this thread for a while.......

As stated long ago when I struggled through this section - I would gladly have paid Van's a little more - whatever the cost might be - to fabricate thse things in a big machine somewhere in the bowels of their plant. They were the worst part of the kit for a newbie like me to attempt in my humble shop. I'm not sure I ever got them perfect, so if my airplane flys only in circles it will be no surprise to me!

Somewhere a decision must have been made to have the builder make these things. Maybe it was to assure that the 51% rule was attained - back then it appeared that a certain number of "fabrication" tasks would be required. Or maybe just a sadistic way to make sure us newbies paid our dues!
 
Tank is worse

I beg to differ.

I enjoyed beating mine with 4 pound hammer, especially when it appeared to work quite easily.

I'm now on my 7th failed fuel tank leak test...at one a week, this is now on the critical path.

Cheers...Keith
 
Hiring it out

As a possible prospective RV-12 builder, I am wondering if, as ELSA certification would allow it, one can hire out the more frustrating tasks (like bending the longerons and completing the fuel tank) to one of the experienced commercial builder assitance operations. Do any of them provide piecemeal service of this nature at a reasonable price?
 
Instead of beating on the longeron to form it, is it possible to clamp it in a vise and use a come-along winch to pull on the end and bend it?
 
Instead of beating on the longeron to form it, is it possible to clamp it in a vise and use a come-along winch to pull on the end and bend it?

Just to clarify...It is not required that you beat on the angle to get it to bend.

The instructions direct you to clamp the angle in a vise at the location of the bend.
Use one hand to pull the angle in the direction you want it to bend.
Use the free hand to hit it firmly with a soft faced hammer to make it take a set with a slight bend induced.
Repeat as many times as needed.

BTW, my hammer for bending longerons has a solid rubber head that weighs about 1 pound
 
:)KurtB, I would be happy to manufacture your longerons for you or any other part of the -12 airframe up to the whole airplane. I have now built 32 RV airframes, (That's 64 longerons in all) "parisman" just droped off his longerons to my shop today. It takes about 15-20 mins. with the right tools and a press. Cost: $100.00 Beautifull!!
 
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My experience with the longerons:

I did this mostly by the instructions(Except I didn't cut the length until after openning the angle just in case I botched it up and wanted to cut some off-I did mark the length before starting with a sharpie), and looking back on it, it really wasn't too bad. Trying to open the angle with my rubber coated hammer wasn't going to well, so I moved up to a 4# hammer and an anvil and that worked very easily - Just firm taps back and forth over that short area that needed openned up. There was slight deformation on the corner edge where the hammer struck, but it cleaned up readily with a file. The rest of the longeron went very easily as instructed using a vise to hold it, and then the light weight rubber coated hammer, and my weight preloading it, and a metric crescent wrench to do the twist(It bends very easily). I spent around 3 hours on both and they turned out perfect. I was very satisfied when I was finished with the challenge. I think the hardest part was having to slow down and spend so much time on one part - But now knowing how it goes I could likely do it much faster. For me actually having to make a part was educational and rewarding.

I have had to remake a few parts, but fortunately the longerons went well.

Just thought I'd offer a different perspective to those who have not yet started and are concerned about this task. It is very doable for the average guy or gal.
 
Somewhere in a thread far far away someone made some bending dies out of wood. I took that idea a bit further and built some 6061-T6 dies with my cnc mill.

I made 5 copies and they are available for $25 plus shipping. We will see what the response is like if we make some more. send me a pm.


Sent you a PM and an email... put me down for a set. I've got some longerons to bend in a couple weeks.
 
I do not have the fuse kit at this time. Will someone measure the angle dimensions of a longeron for the 12 and post it here? Need to see if the molds offered will fit. Thanks
 
skydiverlv,
The longerons are curved. Assuming that the radius of the molds matches the radius of the longerons, there will still be lots of trial and error getting the longeron curve to match that of the canopy deck, F-1234 L&R. The vise used with molds needs to have a high mechanical advantage. Some vises might not be suitable. Advice on bending longerons can be found at the links below. Bending by hand is not that hard once you know how. Put the longeron in a vise, apply pressure to the end of the longeron and whack with a rubber mallet next to the vise. Look down the longeron to see if it bent. If not, do it again with more side pressure. It is not hard to bend if enough side pressure is applied. The trick is to apply just enough side pressure so as not to over-bend the longeron. After getting the longeron to bend SLIGHTLY, open the vise, slide the longeron one inch and bend again. Repeat as necessary to match the curve of the canopy deck.
Joe

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56778

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=50726&highlight=longeron

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=44371

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=41470

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=39010
 
I have "...the two card tables in the garage..." a friend of mine helped me one Sunday afternoon to form these things. Don't attempt to open the angles with the hammer method, you have no control doing that. We used his two ton bearing press and a piece of pipe, it worked just fine. We then twisted them with a "Metric cresent wrench" as the plans suggest. We formed the curve and the bends at the aft end in the vice using the armstrong method. They did twist some during this process which took some time to correct with the wrench after the fact. When I got home and fitted them to the fuselage they were almost perfect.

One thing you need to do id clamp the L>H and R>H together when you get them formed to be sure they are symetrical.
 
More on the longeron debate

Now don't get me wrong guys. The RV-12 is a great design, and Van's is a great company. I have been warmly recieved by all the Van's staff, treated like a king at the factory, and given all the tech support I need. So, please don't take this the wrong way.

The fabrication of these longerons was way beyond my abilities as a first time builder, with "simple hand tools." I was so frustrated by this task I was ready to give up the whole project.

Here is what the Van's Website says: "All metal parts are completely formed and pre-punched with fastener holes. All hardware is included. Every detail of the engine installation, instrument panel, fuel system, landing gear and airframe is carefully designed and optimized for performance and building ease. No special tools are required ? forget the jokes, it really does assemble with simple hand tools."

Read the above quote. If this was really true would there be all these posts by frustrated builders? Would there be posts about people using 2 ton presses, and designing special tools? I don't think so.

Scott McD. - I love you man, but have to laugh at your recent post:

"It is not required that you beat on the angle to get it to bend."

Immediately followed by: "The instructions direct you to clamp the angle in a vise at the location of the bend. Use one hand to pull the angle in the direction you want it to bend. Use the free hand to hit it firmly with a soft faced hammer."

What's the difference between "beating" and "hitting firmly".

As I have stated before, in my humble opinion, if this kit is aimed at beginning builders with only simple hand tools and no previous experience, there should be a better option for forming the longerons. If you don't want to make pre-formed longerons a standard part of the kit, at least offer an option at extra cost.

Until such time as that happens, my advice to any newbie builders is to plan on getting professional help with these parts.

All above meant constructively.
 
Now don't get me wrong guys. The RV-12 is a great design, and Van's is a great company. I have been warmly recieved by all the Van's staff, treated like a king at the factory, and given all the tech support I need. So, please don't take this the wrong way.

The fabrication of these longerons was way beyond my abilities as a first time builder, with "simple hand tools." I was so frustrated by this task I was ready to give up the whole project.

Here is what the Van's Website says: "All metal parts are completely formed and pre-punched with fastener holes. All hardware is included. Every detail of the engine installation, instrument panel, fuel system, landing gear and airframe is carefully designed and optimized for performance and building ease. No special tools are required ? forget the jokes, it really does assemble with simple hand tools."

Read the above quote. If this was really true would there be all these posts by frustrated builders? Would there be posts about people using 2 ton presses, and designing special tools? I don't think so.

Scott McD. - I love you man, but have to laugh at your recent post:

"It is not required that you beat on the angle to get it to bend."

Immediately followed by: "The instructions direct you to clamp the angle in a vise at the location of the bend. Use one hand to pull the angle in the direction you want it to bend. Use the free hand to hit it firmly with a soft faced hammer."

What's the difference between "beating" and "hitting firmly".

As I have stated before, in my humble opinion, if this kit is aimed at beginning builders with only simple hand tools and no previous experience, there should be a better option for forming the longerons. If you don't want to make pre-formed longerons a standard part of the kit, at least offer an option at extra cost.

Until such time as that happens, my advice to any newbie builders is to plan on getting professional help with these parts.

All above meant constructively.

I just made my longerons yesterday. I followed the instruction and they came out perfect. Took a couple hours but what helped is I had a piece of the same 6061-T6 angle I used for practice. Put the angle in the vice pull or push not too hard in horizonal plane move it an inch and repeat. No mallet needed
 
You're a better man than me!

I just made my longerons yesterday. I followed the instruction and they came out perfect. Took a couple hours but what helped is I had a piece of the same 6061-T6 angle I used for practice. Put the angle in the vice pull or push not too hard in horizonal plane move it an inch and repeat. No mallet needed

A few questions:

1. What is your experience level working with metal like this?
2. How did you open the angle required on Page 23-02 Step 3?
3. How did you measure the 5.4 and 2.7 degree angles?
4. How did you remove the bend that occurs in the opposite plane?

John
 
Scott McD. - I love you man, but have to laugh at your recent post:

"It is not required that you beat on the angle to get it to bend."

Immediately followed by: "The instructions direct you to clamp the angle in a vise at the location of the bend. Use one hand to pull the angle in the direction you want it to bend. Use the free hand to hit it firmly with a soft faced hammer."

What's the difference between "beating" and "hitting firmly".

I will try and explain how I see the difference...
All metal has a certain amount of spring back. Meaning, if you apply a force to make it bend (in a bending break for example), when you remove the force it will "spring back to a lesser angle than what it was bent too. The alloys and tempers of aluminum we use in the construction of RV's has a lot of spring back.

Beating method -
If you clamp it in a vise and begin pounding on it with a big hammer you can get it to bend but it takes a lot of hammering effort and it is difficult to be precise.

Hitting firmly method -
Clamp the angle in a vice with point of desired bent located at the edge of the jaws. Apply a bend force to the angle in the desired bend direction with one hand...with the other hand hit the angle firmly, once, adjacent to the vice. Note, it does not say beat on it repeatedly. If you are doing it correctly it will require one moderate hit and a slight bend will be formed. Slight is all that is needed because you will link a bunch of slight bends together (about 1 inch apart) to produce the large radius curve that is needed.

So what is the difference? I only use a mallet with a rubber head that weighs about 1 pound. I could beat on the angle all day long with the mallet by it self and probably not get it to bend much at all. The combination of the "force" applied with the first hand, and the rap of a light mallet which causes it to overcome the spring back and take a set in the direction you applied the force.


As I have stated before, in my humble opinion, if this kit is aimed at beginning builders with only simple hand tools and no previous experience, there should be a better option for forming the longerons. If you don't want to make pre-formed longerons a standard part of the kit, at least offer an option at extra cost.

Until such time as that happens, my advice to any newbie builders is to plan on getting professional help with these parts.

All above meant constructively.

Maybe you are right...maybe the web site should say all of the parts are pre formed, except for the longeron angles (I always tell people this by the way).

The following is also meant constructively... because I am truly sorry you have had some frustration John.

The airplane can be built with the simple hand tools listed. I believe a large number of the 50+ RV-12's that are now flying were built that way by first time builders. It was never meant as a guarantee that anyone that wanted to would be capable of doing so. The estimate of 800-900 hour build time was not a guarantee either. A lot of builders have been landing within that time frame, but I fully expected some to take 1200+ and some to take less than 600.
Every project has to have a most difficult task. Make that task easier and then you have a different one that is most difficult. Choices have to be made when developing a kit as to where the most dollar value is in regards to doing work for the customer. I have not heard many complaints from RV-12 builders about the difficulty of bending the longerons. I think most RV-12 builders (actually most RV builders in general) would say that the canopy installation was the most difficult. So it seems like for the majority of builders it was reasonable design choice.
I hope you either already have, or soon will find a way to get passed this challenge so that you can move on to others that are still to come.
 
Scott,

Thanks for our thoughtful reply, as usual. You continue to be a great resource to us all. Thankfully, I am way past longeron fabrication. I am in the final phases of the FWF kit. I wouldn't even be thinking about longerons, except every so often I read another post from a frustrated builder who has just hit the "longeron wall."

Actually the bending/drilling operation wasn't so bad, except for when I thought I was finished and then discovered that there was now a big bend in the wrong plane. My real problem, and where the "beating" took place, was in the opening of the angles at the forward end. After trying many different techniques I found the only way to open those angle was to literally beat on them with a big heavy hammer against the back of my vice. I ended up with them too wide, and had to squeeze them back together. One of them ended up with a slight bulge that I had to file down, and they both looked like they had been therough a war. I could only approximate the called out angle of 2.7 and 5.4 degrees, but I guess I got them close enough in the end. Scott, just how in heck do you measure to a tenth of a degree using simple hand tools? Anyway, the final product did not meet my personal quality standards, and I stressed over the decision to send for new ones, or use what I had. Decided to use what I had because nobody will ever see them again as they are buried in the assembly, and structurally they were all right.

I really think the fabrication of the longerons is too difficult a task to expect a first time builder with no special skills or tools to perform. This is not just whining about my hard time. I would think Van's Aircraft would not want even one builder to give up and quit at this step. I would also think it is good business practice to live up to the advertising about how easy it is to build one of these things. This is just good business.

How much would it cost Van's to set up some kind of a hydraulic press and form the longerons at the factory? At least as an extra cost option. Or as a pre-formed part offered through the web store.

I really like Van's and all the staff I have dealt with. I want to see you continue your success. This is a constructive suggestion to help you do that.

Scott, I think the difficulty of this task is largely related to the perspective one comes from. For you, and other highly skilled and experienced folks the task seems trivial. To people like me who are still at the "Building for Dummies" stage, it can be daunting, confusing, overwhelming. Why take the chance that this one small part of the build would scare people away?

Once again Scott, thanks for your insights, as always. Please take all above as constructive. Any chance of seeing you at Oshkosh?
 
We RV12 builders are spoiled rotten with ease compared to other models, so when the longerons come along we expect the same ease...patience and you will succeed, if not reach out to a buddy or EAA. Every model has a certain portion that someone struggles with a bit.

Kind Regards
Rudi
 
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