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Things I Wish I'd Done While Building

U

USCANAM

Well Known Member
Thought it would be a good idea to start a list of things to do while building the plane, rather than after it was finished. A few more hours then, would be a lot less than now.
This should be of some help to builders who would not even be aware of changes or improvements that exist.

:I would install the oil cooler cockpit adjustable baffle door while building the baffles, rather than after they were finished. Would have been easier and neater.
: Would have made the static system of sturdier materials and fabrication
: on the tip up, made sure that the fuselage was completely sealed before installing the canopy. This is the area on top where the hinges are. It can still be done, but it requires at least 3 people to remove the canopy, and 3 to install it. Pro Seal worked good closing up the gaps
: would have put that .020" shim under the front canopy skin and between the frame to help avoid the catching (3 times).
: would have made the canopy frame a little narrower to allow for the pushing out by the gas cylinders.

Feel free to join in!!
Got to help those behind us.
Jack
 
USCANAM said:
: Would have made the static system of sturdier materials and fabrication
Click to expand...

The guy certifying mine would not pass the one from Van's. Too flimsy and also leaked. I removed, installed ones that used the hard nylon line and Nyloseal fittings. No leaks, tough, and sailed right through.
 
1. I would have built a smoke oil tank into one of the wings. Though my system works fine, it sure would be nice to have half of my front baggage compartment back and not have to worry about spilling oil inside the fuselage.

2. I would have installed a second radio. I really like my SL-30 with the ability to monitor the standby frequency, but while flying airshows it is preferable to have a dedicated frequency to talk to the Air Boss and another to talk to the formation flight. I would have two separate push-to-talk buttons so I wouldn't have to switch between comm-1 and comm-2 before keying up.

3. I would have used control cables for throttle, propeller and mixture that were made for aircraft use. I bought Van's quadrant cables and it says "not for aircraft use" right on the cable! Now I know why. Despite extensive shielding these cables cannot withstand the heat within the cowling and eventually tighten up. I have had to replace two of them after only 500+ hours of service. On a related subject I would never again use the one-hole eyeballs http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballassy.php for passing the control cables through the firewall. They are really pretty, but it is almost impossible to dis-assemble the eyeball when it is necessary to replace the cable. The aluminum on aluminum threads easily gall and there is no wrench that I know of that will fit this thing when it is on the firewall. If you do get the #*#*#*## thing apart, I guarantee it isn't going to be pretty any more! :mad:

4. I would have left out the parking brake. I have used it about three times. Problem is, when left "on" for a long time, the trapped fluid will gradually lose pressure and the aircraft will start rolling! Not a problem if you are on level ground, but if you forget that you set the brakes and start the engine the airplane WILL start rolling and you will have no brakes at all unless you quickly release the parking brake! :eek: Ask me how I know all this? Now, I always carry a pair of chocks and I ALWAYS use them when I leave the airplane unattended.
 
Ron,

Great comments and thanks for sharing.

I was wondering which eyeball pass through's to use and now I know to stay away from the one piece aluminum ones.

Also, where did you buy your replacement cables from ?
 
I would make that there is extra capacity for growth of electrical systems that require passing thru the spar and also to the back of the fuse. With gear weldments in place as well as fuel lines and selecter, control sticks, etc. it can be a pain to add this capacity later. This is also true if you have the baggage floors riveted down as the plans call for. At least one side would be installed with screws.

I would mount boots during construction for the feed thrus for the aileron push tubes in the sides of the fuse to keep cold air out of the plane. This is a horrible job to do later, but could be done in a half of an hour or so if done early in the build. For those of you who have been cold soaked in an RV you know it takes hours to finally get warm after a long flight.

The way the tubing connects to the rivets that are used as static ports is known to split the tubing in time causing leaks. Climbing into the rear fuse on a finished airplane is not fun and obtaining the leverage to work, press, pull, strain, etc. to repair this is tricky once you do get in there. The rivet thing would be abandoned for real static ports.

Come **** or high water, I'd either fabricate or find somebody with the skills to fabricate an aluminum trim piece for the base of the windshield instead of glassing this in. The idea of having to change a windshield and then get the plane repainted is a place the I don't even like to think about.

Fuel injection, GAMI's, and an engine monitor would be a must. If it meant waiting longer to fly to be able to afford these items I'd wait.

The stock cowl would be omitted from the finish kit order and a Sam James would be in it's place along with their plenum system.

The oil cooler that comes with the FWF kit would be omitted and I'd get a Stewert Warner. This might even be the highest priority of all the things listed here.

Some of the more clever ideas for electric trim tabs for the rudder and ailerons would be borrowed and replicated.
 
Bryan Wood said:
I would mount boots during construction for the feed thrus for the aileron push tubes in the sides of the fuse to keep cold air out of the plane. This is a horrible job to do later, but could be done in a half of an hour or so if done early in the build. For those of you who have been cold soaked in an RV you know it takes hours to finally get warm after a long flight.


The way the tubing connects to the rivets that are used as static ports is known to split the tubing in time causing leaks. Climbing into the rear fuse on a finished airplane is not fun and obtaining the leverage to work, press, pull, strain, etc. to repair this is tricky once you do get in there. The rivet thing would be abandoned for real static ports.
Click to expand...
Bryon
Good points
Re the boots, we're starting to feel the need for them her in the North East.
I wonder if something could be fabricated and install by removing the fuselage/wing fairing, and using velcro? Any photos of what these boots might look like?
We machined these static ports to replace the rivets. In the 9, it was quite easy to do by removing the rear upper fairing.

By USCANAM
Jack
 
Gary Bricker

I would like to see a forum for upgrade products from the kit supplied. For instance the vents, the cables and the front nose wheels/tires and tubes. These are a few things I would not use again of vans.
 
Bryan Wood said:
I would mount boots during construction for the feed thrus for the aileron push tubes in the sides of the fuse to keep cold air out of the plane. This is a horrible job to do later, but could be done in a half of an hour or so if done early in the build. For those of you who have been cold soaked in an RV you know it takes hours to finally get warm after a long flight.
Click to expand...

There is no need for this to be a difficult retrofit for any flying side-by-side RV. Here are the details on how to easily make some inexpensive aileron boots and install them:

http://thervjournal.com/cold.html#boots

All you have to do is open up the seat bottoms and unhook the inboard end of the aileron push rod. Two-three hours max. :)

boots-5.jpg
 
Wicked Stick said:
I was wondering which eyeball pass through's to use and now I know to stay away from the one piece aluminum ones.

Also, where did you buy your replacement cables from ?
Click to expand...

If you are stuck on the eyeball firewall pass-through I would try the Model SE961-S from aircraft spruce. They will be a lot easier to take apart. The stainless firewall shield (Part #61-275) works well, too.
I got the cables from Aircraft Spruce (Part # A-1550). They are not direct replacements for Van's cables. They have the same 7/16 inch bulkhead fittings on both ends but the 10-32 threaded rods on the ends are longer, so you may have to redesign your cable bracket and the bulkhead mounting position forward of your quadrant.

That brings up another thing that I would do differently.... I really like a quadrant-mounted throttle, but the prop and mixture controls really should be push-pull vernier controls. That's what most aerobatic airplanes are useing and it makes a lot of sense. :rolleyes:
 
Sam
Great reply!!
I hate taking things apart that are together (aileron push tubes for example).
Do you think in your experienced opinion that rather than sew the boots together, could you use a very light zipper. Would you be concerned about the flexing?
The aluminum ring could be cut to fit around the tube.
Thanks again for the link. Very informative.
Jack
 
USCANAM said:
Sam
Great reply!!
I hate taking things apart that are together (aileron push tubes for example).
Do you think in your experienced opinion that rather than sew the boots together, could you use a very light zipper. Would you be concerned about the flexing?
The aluminum ring could be cut to fit around the tube.
Thanks again for the link. Very informative.
Jack
Click to expand...

Jack, before going the zipper route I would investigate using a flexible adhesive like RTV. A needle and thread might be an even better solution.

But pulling one bolt at the end of each pushrod tube is very easy and in my opinion the best method. :)
 
Glue the canopy in place. With just over 200 hours I have two cracks originating from screw holes and it is driving me crazy!
 
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1) Wish I had been smarter about the places I installed a few things. Always keep in mind maintenance issues. IE, I put my altitude encoder on the rib that runs from the fw to the subpanel. Very difficult to get removed when it needs to come out for it's check.

2) Installed little fans in the heater box inside the cabin to help blow warm air around.

3) Had more ground tabs!

4) Installed a friction cable for the heat control instead of a smooth control. It vibrates closed all the time!
 
ronschreck said:
4. I would have left out the parking brake. I have used it about three times. Problem is, when left "on" for a long time, the trapped fluid will gradually lose pressure and the aircraft will start rolling! Not a problem if you are on level ground, but if you forget that you set the brakes and start the engine the airplane WILL start rolling and you will have no brakes at all unless you quickly release the parking brake! :eek: Ask me how I know all this? Now, I always carry a pair of chocks and I ALWAYS use them when I leave the airplane unattended.
Click to expand...

I opted to put in a parking brake and just tonight, I put brake fluid (actually Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF) into my system for the first time! Yee haw! I have functional brakes for the first time!

My previous plane was a 1951 Aeronca Sedan which had its parking brake disconnected. I remember on more than one occasion taxiing up to the fuel pump, alone, and finding myself on a small incline. It was a mad scramble to jump off the brakes, slide over to the passenger side, open the door, and jump out before it rolled too far. Before I installed the parking brake in the RV, I asked a friend and he sited the same situation that I had been in my Aeronca but in his RV. I was sold. I'm sure I got out of my Aeronca much faster than I could get out of an RV.

I will still chalk the wheels and would never rely on the parking brake. I'll only use it on inclines until I could get out.
 
quadrant vs. vernier for prop and mixture

ronschreck said:
...

That brings up another thing that I would do differently.... I really like a quadrant-mounted throttle, but the prop and mixture controls really should be push-pull vernier controls. That's what most aerobatic airplanes are useing and it makes a lot of sense. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Hi Ron,

Could you expand on this for me? Why do you find the vernier controls better? How would you mount these in your -8? I currently have a two lever quadrant, I'm planning to replace it with the 3-lever quadrant due to the planned engine change, and I would be interested in your feedback.

Thanks,
Mickey
 
rv8ch said:
Hi Ron,

Could you expand on this for me? Why do you find the vernier controls better? How would you mount these in your -8? I currently have a two lever quadrant, I'm planning to replace it with the 3-lever quadrant due to the planned engine change, and I would be interested in your feedback.

Thanks,
Mickey
Click to expand...

Mickey,

I would put the vervier controls for prop and mixture just forward of the quadrant (throttle only). You could put them on the lower left side of the panel. Once you set the prop and mixture you seldom touch them during the flight and the vernier function is great for setting a precise RPM and leaning mixture. Check out the cockpits of Extra's, MX2's, etc. If you currently have a two-lever quadrant you might consider just putting the mixture on a vernier control. Ain't experimental wonderful!:D
 
USCANAM said:
Sam
Great reply!!
I hate taking things apart that are together (aileron push tubes for example).
Do you think in your experienced opinion that rather than sew the boots together, could you use a very light zipper. Would you be concerned about the flexing?
The aluminum ring could be cut to fit around the tube.
Thanks again for the link. Very informative.
Jack
Click to expand...

If using a zipper, I'd stay away from a metal one... you don't want to score up the aileron tube if it comes in contact with it.
It's not that bad to simply un-bolt the aileron tube inside the fuse and slip the boot over it and slide it down/out to the side of the fuse where you attach it. I have the one's from Abby at Flightline. Stop by and check them out if you wish.
 
Sam Buchanan said:
There is no need for this to be a difficult retrofit for any flying side-by-side RV. Here are the details on how to easily make some inexpensive aileron boots and install them:

http://thervjournal.com/cold.html#boots

All you have to do is open up the seat bottoms and unhook the inboard end of the aileron push rod. Two-three hours max. :)

boots-5.jpg
Click to expand...

It isn't the installation that is bad, it is the contortions you must put your body in to do it. You either have to sit on one seat pan with the other out and try to work from there which is uncomfortable, or be on your knees on the seat pan and lean down into the other side which is almost impossible, or you have to put your knees on the wing and have the canopy rails dig into your stomach while your head is down in the plane. All these are awful choices compared to doing this during the build when access is so easy. On mine it took a combination of all these positions to get the install done.

Here is a link to a picture of the offering from Flight Line Interiors. The quality is good, the price is cheap, and as the picture shows can easily be done during the installation while working from the comfort of a chair.
 
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Looking forward tothe Pain

Thanks for the link Bryon to Flite Line
I ordered a set for the 9.
With my new knee, and my old knee, it will be fun.
Actually, it's all the screws in the floor boards that's a pain, especially the ones right up against the sides that take an off-set screw driver to remove.
Want to make a few adjustments to the elevator pushrod anyways, so all will done at the same time.
Jack
 
This is a great thread! Perhaps it can be made "sticky" and model specific. As a future builder (next four months) I have been lurking for information like this. I appreciate all of you sharing your wisdom!
 
Glad to see you here Ralph

Do not wait several months. Start building NOW. With all your knowledge of how to build a successful business that RV7 will fly faster than you think. It just takes patience, discipline and a plan to build your airplane.(end of quote)Get the tools and roll!
 
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Aileron tube boots

This worked well for me in my -4.....

-Went to Wal-mart to the sporting goods section and found the clearance shelf.
-Found a raincoat made from rubber coated ripstop nylon.
-Cut the sleeves off to the length I needed.
-Had a dart sewn in to take up some of the excess diameter of the sleeve.
-Make a retaining ring for fuselage attachment.
-Glued it in place using RTV and spring clamped it till cured.
-Tie wrapped the sleeve end around the push tube in addition to the sleeve's
elastic cuff.
-And it was done!

P.S. The worst part was the installation but you only have to do it once.
 
Flite Line boot update

Received an email from Abby at FlightLine re: their boots I ordered.
Seems if I wait a little longer, they have developed an all velcro attach boot to install either inside or outside the wing rib depending on whether you are building or flying. No aluminum ring necessary.
Buying the raincoat is appealing, but I think I'll wait for the ones from FlightLine.
(696 was shipped today, so I'll be busy installing it in the panel for the next little while)
Price is very reasonable. (boots, not the 696).
Will have photos when I do it.
Jack
 
I seriously thought about installing aileron boots, but never got around to it. As it turns out, the zippered stick boots from Classic Aero Designs do a great job of keeping air flow out of the cockpit. My only real leakage is from the cheap Van's air vents; but I expected that.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
L.Adamson said:
My only real leakage is from the cheap Van's air vents; but I expected that.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
Click to expand...
L
If you don't want to change over to the expensive non leak ones, I've seen where builders either cover them in the cold weather, or make an epoxy or RTV seal for the valve to close up against.
Jack
 
USCANAM said:
L
If you don't want to change over to the expensive non leak ones, I've seen where builders either cover them in the cold weather, of make an epoxy or RTV seal for the valve to close up against.
Jack
Click to expand...

My wife stuffed a plastic bag into the one on her side...

BTW--- Let us know what you think of the 696. Every night, I'm tempted to hit the "order" button. But haven't yet. I have the 496 at the moment.

L.Adamson
 
Here are some of the ones I've done over the last 4 builds:

  1. Standardize on screw size. I have #4, #6 and #8 screws in different places all over the airplane. This makes dissassembly and reassembly more difficult. (Just ask my painter!) I've settled on #6 mostly except where #8 are specifically needed for strength.
  2. Screw wing tips on instead of glassing and filling the cracks. Over time, they crack and chip the paint. I think a nice straight line with stainless screws looks better anyway. Oh, and it takes less time and less mess too.
  3. Simplify. I have a nack for over engineering solutions, making them more complicated than they need to be. Before I start something, I search this forum to find out how others have done it. 90% of the time, there is a simple and elegant solution that I would have never thought of.
  4. Install the rudder chains without any weight on the tailwheel and remove all the slack. When the weight is on the tailwheel, there will be just the right amount of slack due to the bending of the tailwheel arm.
  5. Replace the Van's tailwheel with one that has properly adjusted the geometry. Catching your tailwheel in a deep crack or edge of a runway will ruin your Saturday flyout. Check out Flyboy Accessories for a great steel replacement assembly.
  6. Install your tailwheel to the arm using taper pins using a taper pin reamer. It is a much better install, holds the assembly much tigher to the arm, and won't loosen over time. Bolts?-----Well, it's easier to install the pins now than in a cold hangar.
I'm sorry if I've rambled but I have about two-dozen of these "lessons learned" floating around in my head.
 
I would have...

...drilled all the flap hinge holes in the inner ribs before riveting on the top skins. Possibly rivet them on as well--could have squeezed them all instead of offset riveting. I'd rather proseal the tank then offset rivet

Alan
RV-9A Wings (Fuse inventoried)
 
USCANAM said:
Received an email from Abby at FlightLine re: their boots I ordered.
Seems if I wait a little longer, they have developed an all velcro attach boot to install either inside or outside the wing rib depending on whether you are building or flying. No aluminum ring necessary.
Buying the raincoat is appealing, but I think I'll wait for the ones from FlightLine.
(696 was shipped today, so I'll be busy installing it in the panel for the next little while)
Price is very reasonable. (boots, not the 696).
Will have photos when I do it.
Jack
Click to expand...

This sub-thread re: the boots got me thinking about speedy boots for auto CV joints. The above sounds close.
 
2 More Things !!

1. I wish I'd known about adding the return springs to the master brake cylinders that I've read about on this forum.
I can tell when my cylinders aren't quite returning home by how hard it is to pull the plane up the slight incline into my hangar. Since I have the access panels right above the brake pedals, maybe I'll add them one of these days.

2. Would get the control sticks as far forward as possible.
Since at the suggestion of some high time RV pilots, I shortened the control sticks, (also would have been easier to do before the plane was finished)to the point there is no chance of them contacting the bottom of the panel. I've found when flying level, it would be more comfortable with my arm length to have the grips a couple of inches more forward.
Right now, I've gone as far as I can go by re-adjusting the main elevator push-pull tube, but the short one needs to be adjusted too. Will do that when I pull up the floor to install the aileron boots.
BTW, before I flew tonight, I covered up about 1/3 of the air intake for the heater muff with a piece of masking tape, and it appeared I was getting more heat in the cockpit.
Jack
 
I wouldn't do...

Just tidying up for my inspection on Monday and have decided it is not a good thing to "temporarily" put in some bolts with the intent of replacing them with the "final" bolts later. Nothing serious, but I've just found a few places that needed the proper bolt put in and can see where it might be easy to just assume the "temporary" was put in to spec (especially if it was done a long time ago...)

greg
 
USCANAM said:
BTW, before I flew tonight, I covered up about 1/3 of the air intake for the heater muff with a piece of masking tape, and it appeared I was getting more heat in the cockpit.
Jack
Click to expand...

One thing I was happy with: Tossing a couple choir boy pads into the heater muff. I always have plenty of heat - they slow the air down and conduct heat from the exhaust pipe. I inspect them every annual and expect to see them fallen apart - but they look almost as good as new.
 
kevinh said:
One thing I was happy with: Tossing a couple choir boy pads into the heater muff. I always have plenty of heat - they slow the air down and conduct heat from the exhaust pipe. I inspect them every annual and expect to see them fallen apart - but they look almost as good as new.
Click to expand...

Clever idea - slows airflow and conducts heat from exhaust pipe into pad mesh which in turn has a huge heat transfer surface are with the airflow:)
A few more grams though compared with restricting the size of the muffler inlet.
Jim Sharkey
 
ronschreck said:
1. I would have built a smoke oil tank into one of the wings. Though my system works fine, it sure would be nice to have half of my front baggage compartment back and not have to worry about spilling oil inside the fuselage...
Click to expand...
Ron,

While that sounds like a good idea it could be a problem. A friend had a homebuilt Great Lakes with the fuel tanks in the top wing and a smoke oil tank in the fuselage just behind the firewall, where many planes have fuel tanks.

When on a cross country he asked the line boy at some remote airport to top off his plane while he went to the bathroom. When the fuel bill was for more fuel than the plane could hold he knew something was up.

It turns off the guy topped off his smoke oil tank with 100LL.

He wasn't happy with loosing time draining the tank but had he stroked the smoke system he probably would never have known what happened.
 
Wiring and brakes ...

As I finish the mechanical stuff on N8RV, a couple of things come to mind (my aching ribs are reminding me -- hanging upside-down over the canopy rails will do that) ...

1) Install conduits for wire passage in several places through bulkheads from stem to stern. More is better. Bigger is better. I'd read that when I started building, but if you've never done this, "more" and "bigger" are really meaningless. I had no idea what was going where and how much wire I'd be running through the fuselage. Seems like I'm always needing just one more wire to run from the fuse panel to somewhere else, and getting that one wire through an already tight grommet is a bear!

2) I would have filled the brake system long before now. I put it off till the end, thinking that it would be better to have fresh fluid in there rather than aged. However, when I just did that over the weekend, I found leaks. And the leaks were nearly impossible to get to, naturally. It would've been SO much easier to have filled the system and tested it before closing things up.
 
"Sam James" cowling and plenum?

Earlier, somebody mentioned these... Being new to the RV world, I've never heard of these. I assume there's some advantage over Van's stock stuff. Can someone elaborate as to what the differences are and what the added benefit (and cost) is. Thanks.
 
N8RV said:
2) I would have filled the brake system long before now. I put it off till the end, thinking that it would be better to have fresh fluid in there rather than aged. However, when I just did that over the weekend, I found leaks. And the leaks were nearly impossible to get to, naturally. It would've been SO much easier to have filled the system and tested it before closing things up.
Click to expand...
Don
You're right on with this one!!
As soon as possible, get fluid into the system.
I have the dual brakes, and used Van's plastic tubing. Thought everything was tight, but still had leaks.
A year later, there is still one leak somewhere, but can't find it. I just top up the system with an ounce or so every month.
Jack
 
USCANAM said:
Don
You're right on with this one!!
As soon as possible, get fluid into the system.
I have the dual brakes, and used Van's plastic tubing. Thought everything was tight, but still had leaks.
A year later, there is still one leak somewhere, but can't find it. I just top up the system with an ounce or so every month.
Jack
Click to expand...

That's a significant leak. Try very hard to find it--brake fluid accumulating in a hidden area can be messy at best, and destructive to many finishes at worst.
 
What a great thread! I will have to copy/paste all of these into a word doc and print so I don't forget them!
 
More!! Air temp sensors.

We have two air temp sensors. I put one in each cabin air intake.
Big mistake. They appear to be reading about 5'F higher than true in the air, probably because of engine heat.
When aircraft is sitting on ground, engine not running and cool, outside temps on both instruments read correct ambient.
This is important if you fly in an area prone to icing temps.
I guess we'll be feeding some wires through the wings.
Jack
 
USCANAM said:
Thought it would be a good idea to start a list of things to do while building the plane, rather than after it was finished. A few more hours then, would be a lot less than now.
This should be of some help to builders who would not even be aware of changes or improvements that exist.

snipped
: Would have made the static system of sturdier materials and fabrication
: on the tip up, made sure that the fuselage was completely sealed before installing the canopy. This is the area on top where the hinges are. It can still be done, but it requires at least 3 people to remove the canopy, and 3 to install it. Pro Seal worked good closing up the gaps
snipped
Jack
Click to expand...

I agree with Jack regarding Vans static air kit. The tubing is made in the third world somewhere. When I installed mine, The tubing cracked within two days of putting it over the Tee fitting. I threw it away and installed real Imperial Eastman tubing with quality fittings.
Charlie Kuss
 
removable floors

My biggest regret on the airframe is not making the floor pans removable. I'd recommend doing that.
brian
 
What I'd do differently...

I'd do anything possible to make the annual inspections go faster.

This especially includes cutting access holes in the seat pans to check the control linkages, the flap pushrod covers. (removing the seat pans is the worst part of the whole inspection) I'd add a door to peek in the tailcone without removing dozens of screws. Also make the fuel selector cover extremely easy to remove, or put a little door on the front of it.

I'd make sure the screws that hold the front and back halves of the wheel pants together aren't too close to the bottom, where it is impossible to use a screwdriver. I'd even try 1/4 turn latches to hold the pants together if possible.

I'd make sure there is a nice sized access door to check and add air to the tires.

I'd use a LOT fewer screws to hold the empennage fairing in place.

I'd find a different kind of air filter and that doesn't require the large assembly to be removed to clean it. (updraft carb)

I'd cut a hole in the wing access panel under the aileron pushrod bellcrank and glue in a piece of plexi so the panel doesn't need to be removed to inspect that bellcrank.

I'd break the wing root fairings up into several pieces to make it easier to inspect just the area you need to look at.

I'd put the passenger headset jacks right on the panel (or somewhere in plain sight). Not so important with the pilot jacks because you never take them out.

I'd put a 12v power jack under the panel on the left and right side.

I'd bring any engine instrument wires through the firewall near the bottom (instead of at the top). (I don't want to think about how hard it will be if I have to replace anything later since they come in near the top now)

I'd wire the panel so it would be extremely easy to upgrade later.

I'd use several modular panel cover pieces (vs. one piece of aluminum) so any one of them could be removed, reworked, and changed later.

I'd add the spring to modify the top canopy latch (tip-up) so you have to pull down to turn the latch. (I was locked out once when the latch turned)

I'd paint the interior a flat grey color.

I'd use the low-tech floats in the tanks instead of the capacitive senders.

I'd use 2 quarts of pro-seal per tank if necessary.. especially on the bottom rivets!

I'd use flexible fuel lines from the tank into the fuselage (vent and fuel lines).
 
Heater Control

Small detail, but I would have done it had I known.
Make the arm on the heater valve about 50% longer so the push pull control knob is not so sensitive when adjusting cockpit heat.
I'm anticipating great results in having more cockpit heat since I have followed the advice on this thread about the scouring pads in the heater muff, and the boots on the aileron pushrods.
Doing these mods in steps.
Flew with the muff additions the other day, and there did appear to be a little more heat in the cabin. Not sure if this was from the mod, or the fact my wife had brought a small blanket and stuffed it between her right thigh and the side panel. This could have kept out some of the cold air on her side.
I do plan on bending the center opening on the cabin heater outlet a little more open so there will be more hot air directed to the center of the cockpit. (the hot air coming from the pilot on the left doesn't seem to help).

Today, we removed the floor panels and have started to install the boots.
This was not made easier since we had run the aileron servo wire through the hole on the right side that we're booting up, but the velcro used in the boot join allowed us to run the cable through it.
I guess another tip here is if you plan on installing the boots, don't run cables through the aileron pushrod openings. In our case, since the servo processor is mounted on the cockpit floor, this makes wing removal possible without removing the large plug on the servo cable, which we would have to do if it had it been installed through a small hole in the fuselage side.
Should be able to flight test and report in a few days.
As mentioned previously, we're also going to re-adjust the elevator linkage so the stick is in a more forward position. This has nothing to do with belly position, but with a more comfortable arm position!!!!
Jack
 
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Larger Capacity Battery

I think this is something I might do before next winter.
I'd highly recommend that builders consider it now.

We installed the standard issue Van's battery in our 9A.
Our engine is a new fuel injected IO-360 with a geared starter.
Our G meter has the all time voltage display mode, so we know what the battery voltage is all the time. Voltage output on the Dynon shows the same , but is not as convenient to view.
Usually this time of the year(winter), after a flight, the voltage shows at 12.8 after engine shut down. After about a day, the voltage goes down to, and levels off at about 12.4.
When going to do a start, with master on, voltage will drop to about 12.1 because of master solenoid. Boost pump for starting will show a voltage of 11.8 for the few seconds the pump is on.
When battery is showing 12.1, cranking is good. If battery is showing much less than 12 volts, cranking is very slow, almost to a stall.
If I want to test the avionics for any more than a minute, I have to put the battery charger on the battery, or it might not start later. There really isn't much reserve in that small battery.

I'm sure that there is a battery out there that is of the same width and height, but a little deeper. This would require a new battery box, and the weight should only be a few more pounds, but the capacity could be about 50% more.
We've used #4 cable from battery to solenoid, and solenoid to starter.
I'll feel a lot better with more cranking reserve, and a little more battery reserve in case of alternator failure.
Jack
 
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