Van's Air Force
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RVd-6 hard landing
- Thread starter dandpcarr
- Start date
Tankerpilot75
Well Known Member
If you have a bent prop you’ll also need to do an engine tear down inspection. Hopefully you have your aircraft properly insured because this will be an expensive repair. Good luck and please know we feel your pain.
blaplante
Well Known Member
Hard to imagine that the firewall is the only thing damaged. How about all the sheet metal on the fuselage that attaches to the firewall? Did the ailerons drag and get damaged? Wingtips?
This is also one of those times where someone's prior finish and paint makes a big difference. Can you see all the firewall rivets or did someone body filler over them all to make the plane look good?
This is also one of those times where someone's prior finish and paint makes a big difference. Can you see all the firewall rivets or did someone body filler over them all to make the plane look good?
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Ralph Inkster
Well Known Member
Removing the firewall isn’t a hard process, just takes patience & some accurate rivet drilling. Replacement firewall parts are readily available from Vans.
You may choose to also remove the front deck (in front of the w/shield) for easier access. When the firewall is off, closely inspect the floor panel & rib angles for buckling or cracks, Center mount brackets, & corner weldment mounts for damage or any related deformation in the longeron (usually shows as a bulge about 1foot aft where the longerons normally bend a bit down & inwards).
Another thing to look for- early RV6 used a 3piece firewall (2 narrow aluminum side pieces & Center stainless steel panel) depending on the builders original build dimensions, the replacement one piece firewall panel may require a bit of adjusting to fit in the old space. I can’t remember if the new replacement also comes prepunched which won’t match the original skin rivet hole placements. Also, make life slightly easier by ordering ALL the angles/spacers/aluminum Center mount brackets that go with the firewall panel!
Good luck - a bigger job than it looks!
You may choose to also remove the front deck (in front of the w/shield) for easier access. When the firewall is off, closely inspect the floor panel & rib angles for buckling or cracks, Center mount brackets, & corner weldment mounts for damage or any related deformation in the longeron (usually shows as a bulge about 1foot aft where the longerons normally bend a bit down & inwards).
Another thing to look for- early RV6 used a 3piece firewall (2 narrow aluminum side pieces & Center stainless steel panel) depending on the builders original build dimensions, the replacement one piece firewall panel may require a bit of adjusting to fit in the old space. I can’t remember if the new replacement also comes prepunched which won’t match the original skin rivet hole placements. Also, make life slightly easier by ordering ALL the angles/spacers/aluminum Center mount brackets that go with the firewall panel!
Good luck - a bigger job than it looks!
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Huh?
Not sure how early you're talking about. I've never seen this. My -6 was 1989 kit and I assure you it had a 1-piece Stainless firewall.
Not sure how early you're talking about. I've never seen this. My -6 was 1989 kit and I assure you it had a 1-piece Stainless firewall.
Built by the plans? Or crappy repair..... What is with the stack of washers??
Amazing that would fail without any clues that a normal inspection would catch.
Actually the poster was correct Mel.
The early RV-6's did have a 3 piece firewall.
The majority of it was one large piece, but the left and right side flange areas were a separate narrow piece that riveted to the large main piece.
I can't comment on whether the current one piece firewall would have a fit issue or not, but worse case the sides could probably be trimmed off and the original side pieces reused if they are not damaged.
Fortunately, the flanges on new firewall parts are not prepunched to match drilling from the existing skins is not a problem (I use a drill guide that centers in the dimples to assure the new holes are exactly centered.
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Stack of washers
I only see four washers which is desirable on the gear bolts. The AN bolts have a slight taper adjacent to the threads. On the landing gear this means that the tapered portion is not properly sharing the load on the gear leg. By using a bolt one dash number longer than normal both ends of the bolt will be sharing the load.
I only see four washers which is desirable on the gear bolts. The AN bolts have a slight taper adjacent to the threads. On the landing gear this means that the tapered portion is not properly sharing the load on the gear leg. By using a bolt one dash number longer than normal both ends of the bolt will be sharing the load.
planenutz
Well Known Member
My RV-6 fusealage kit was purchased around 1998 and comprised of four main pieces... the main stainless firewall face itself, the two aluminium side angles that form the interesction with the fuselage side skins, and a factory-cut governor recess.
As Ralph said, it's going to be be important to accurately drill out the rivets to make sure you don't get the holes in your stucture enlarged. Hopefully there is no damage to the lower longerons where the brackets for the firewall bolt on but you might find you have to replace these as well. Aside from access to the rear side for riveting the replacement is not going to be particularly difficult. I would be inclined to replace the whole stainless firewall rather than just splice in a lower section although this is always an option. Without photos its hard to tell the extent of your damage.
If you had a heavy landing I'm guessing you might also have a hole in your lower wing skin where one (or both) of the gear legs has hit? I've had to do a repair to this area before from a hard landing one chap did and seen other RV's with similar patches indicating they have been through the same pain. Its surprising to think those spring legs can bend back so far.
If you find only one area of your firewall damaged don't assume the other side isn't also affected as you might find sheared rivets in the structure behind. Have a very close look at the lower brackets and their attachment to the fuselage as they take a lot of load.
Some photos would be good.
As Ralph said, it's going to be be important to accurately drill out the rivets to make sure you don't get the holes in your stucture enlarged. Hopefully there is no damage to the lower longerons where the brackets for the firewall bolt on but you might find you have to replace these as well. Aside from access to the rear side for riveting the replacement is not going to be particularly difficult. I would be inclined to replace the whole stainless firewall rather than just splice in a lower section although this is always an option. Without photos its hard to tell the extent of your damage.
If you had a heavy landing I'm guessing you might also have a hole in your lower wing skin where one (or both) of the gear legs has hit? I've had to do a repair to this area before from a hard landing one chap did and seen other RV's with similar patches indicating they have been through the same pain. Its surprising to think those spring legs can bend back so far.
If you find only one area of your firewall damaged don't assume the other side isn't also affected as you might find sheared rivets in the structure behind. Have a very close look at the lower brackets and their attachment to the fuselage as they take a lot of load.
Some photos would be good.
There are washers or bushing under the top bigger washers, that were used when the hole was enlarged that caused the thin edge distance to fail.
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Repair
A common repair is a heavy washer made from 4130. Section of heavy wall tubing or flat stock shaped to the tube. Drill and ream to a tight fit on AN5 bolt and weld in place. Tack weld with the gear in place, then remove gear and finish weld. Best done with TIG.
Failure may have been a result of no gussets that were added to later mounts and are standard retrofit.
See Paul Dye article in Kitplanes.
A common repair is a heavy washer made from 4130. Section of heavy wall tubing or flat stock shaped to the tube. Drill and ream to a tight fit on AN5 bolt and weld in place. Tack weld with the gear in place, then remove gear and finish weld. Best done with TIG.
Failure may have been a result of no gussets that were added to later mounts and are standard retrofit.
See Paul Dye article in Kitplanes.
