RV-14A KAI 08-11, riveting inboard HS nose ribs to spar?

[DonMcKee]

I'm looking ahead to section 08-11, and wondering about riveting the horizontal stabilizer inboard nose ribs/spar/inspar ribs stack. The plans suggest deferring this to the last thing to do. However, I'm wondering if these can be done ahead of time, similar to how the outboard stack is done on pg. 08-10, and then just dropped into place when the spar is inserted.

If done early, I should be able to use a squeezer to get those 10 470AD4 rivets. The modified plan would be:

1. Prior to pg 08-09, where the inspar rib/stringer web/stringer assembly is put together, rivet together the 2 modified HS-1004 inspar ribs, forward spar, and 2 modified HS-905 nose ribs.
2. Return to page 08-09, and carry on as written.

Did anyone else do it this way? Is there any reason why this is a bad idea, and that I will be much better off just following the plans as written?

 

[lipper03]

I tried at the designed point, and squeezer wouldn’t fit, I remember flange nose was too tall, and 4” I don’t think I could clear the flange. But maybe if you do it like you are saying it would. Might try on my next hs without lcp.

 

[DonMcKee]

I'm going to stick with the plans.

After clecoing things together in the order I wanted to rivet (shoulda done that before posting ), I think I'd run into problems accessing the end rivets connecting the stringers to the stringer web (they're hidden behind the flanges of the inspar rib). I guess it's best (as usual) to follow the plans, and hope that by the time I get there I'll have figured out how to get acceptable results using the double-offset rivet set.

 

[mturnerb]

I was getting smilies at first using the double-offset set...then I determined the set was rotating in the gun so I duct taped the set to the retainer spring...problem solved.

This is the ticket...

 

[DonMcKee]

I was getting smilies at first using the double-offset set...then I determined the set was rotating in the gun so I duct taped the set to the retainer spring...problem solved.

I taped the set to the gun, so no problem on that side. My problem is on the shop head: every single one of my practice rivets was tilted ("clenched"?), like it was too long (it wasn't). AFAIK, my bar (tungsten) was square to the piece. When I switched back to a straight set, everything else the same, the rivet set just fine

 

[lipper03]

adjust the air too

If you haven't already, adjust your regulator or similar for air flow and/or pressure for the double offset. If you don't, the hits are too light, so too many hits can result in over hardening, thus the tipping you might be seeing. Just another thought that might be helpful. I found I just have to get my mind/body set and be confident and turn the air up and get after it, and it works fine.

 

[squeakersc063]

I second the thing about pressure using the offset. Try upping the air pressure like 20PSI and make sure you're using a good amount of pushing pressure on the head. Also put some tape over the manufactured head to help the set with some friction to stay in place.

 

[tyconnell]

I had no luck with a squeezer. A 7.5 inch straight rivet set, 3x gun, tungsten bar is what worked for me. I bought the straight set specifically for this task.

 

[rdt7]

I had no luck with a squeezer. A 7.5 inch straight rivet set, 3x gun, tungsten bar is what worked for me. I bought the straight set specifically for this task.

Where did you buy it?

 

[DonMcKee]

If you haven't already, adjust your regulator or similar for air flow and/or pressure for the double offset.

Cranking up the pressure seems to have done the trick. Thanks for the advice!

 

[lipper03]

Cranking up the pressure seems to have done the trick. Thanks for the advice!

Awesome! Glad that helped.