Coastal Environment: Humidity and Engine Protection

[cduck28z]

Hey guys!

I bought myself a beautiful 1987 RV3 with an O-320 back in November 2020. I had all the intentions in the world of flying regularly and taking it out multiple times a week, etc. Whelp, maintenance and upgrades and life has kept getting in the way, and to date I only have about 50hr on her over the last 3+ years.

I live in Kingsville, TX only 20mi from the coast. I know this is an INCREDIBLY corrosive environment based on rapid rust formation on my hotrod frame when I first moved here. In an attempt to minimize the damage to my engine, I have taken some inspiration from the internet and constructed an engine dehydrator.

It consists of a cereal container filled with desicant beads and ¼" ID silicon tubing. I have wireless hydrometers mounted on the engine inlet side as well as the oil breather return side. O-rings seal every pneumatic connector in and out of all of the containers, plus copious amounts of hot glue as a backup; it should be a closed system (exhaust is sealed, but not the intake).

I have some concerns with constantly running air through my motor and have installed additional descicant bags inside my exhaust, then sealed the off with rubber bungs (not pictured). I'm curious on the community thoughts or ways to improve my setup!

Ps. I quickly set up a fire extinguisher suspended above... Just in case

 

[tom_AZ]

Several threads on this topic, including recently. Can't see the full design, but if there's not a filter between the dessicant beads and where the dry air enters the engine, I'd suggest adding one. I used an air filter that fits a snowmobile. Pumping silica dust into the engine doesn't seem like a good idea.

 

[MacCool]

Several threads on this topic, including recently. Can't see the full design, but if there's not a filter between the dessicant beads and where the dry air enters the engine, I'd suggest adding one. I used an air filter that fits a snowmobile. Pumping silica dust into the engine doesn't seem like a good idea.

Any 0.5 micron or less filter will address concern about silica particles. I haven't used one in five years and have seen no issues, including biannual oil analysis, but I see no reason not to use one. They're cheap and readily available on Amazon.

I gave up on a closed system because it was more of a hassle they I wanted to tolerate. Only downside I can see is having to change the beads more often. OTOH, other have noted that recycling crankcase air makes for a pretty stinky silica-cooking process, That wouldn't fly at my house

FILTER

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[cduck28z]

Are there any concerns about drawing in ambient air (say through an open exhaust or intake port) in a closed-loop system? I've plugged the exhaust to try and mitigate that. If so, is there a position on the engine where all intake valves are closed?

 

[tom_AZ]

Any 0.5 micron or less filter will address concern about silica particles. I haven't used one in five years and have seen no issues, including biannual oil analysis, but I see no reason not to use one. They're cheap and readily available on Amazon.

I gave up on a closed system because it was more of a hassle they I wanted to tolerate. Only downside I can see is having to change the beads more often. OTOH, other have noted that recycling crankcase air makes for a pretty stinky silica-cooking process, That wouldn't fly at my house

FILTER

.View attachment 56755

Not sure of the size of this one, but if it's small, I'd wonder whether it can pass air at relatively large volumes. Don't really know one way or the other. At least per the specs, my aquarium pump is supposed to move 5+ gallons/minute. I'm sure there's some loss do to tubing, etc..., but still, that's quite a bit of air. I've re-pasted an image below. Open system, no dessicant (Arizona). My purpose for the intake filter is to remove dust particles from the ambient air.

 

[tom_AZ]

Are there any concerns about drawing in ambient air (say through an open exhaust or intake port) in a closed-loop system? I've plugged the exhaust to try and mitigate that. If so, is there a position on the engine where all intake valves are closed?

Would have to think about that, but even if yes, I don't know how you would "find" the right spot each time you wanted to connect the dehydrator. If you're using a closed system, any air drawn in inadvertently would still eventually pass through the dessicant.

 

[JonJay]

Is it possible to change the environment in your hangar?
I live in a Coastal environment. Insulated hangar, heated, and dehumidified.
Although debatable on how much it protects a dormant engine, I believe it does. However, you could then circulate dehumidified ambient air and not worry about desiccant.
I fly often, so don’t worry about it.

If the environment is that bad, the rest of your airframe, parts, and exterior engine components are still taking a bath.

 

[MED]

Several threads on this topic, including recently. Can't see the full design, but if there's not a filter between the dessicant beads and where the dry air enters the engine, I'd suggest adding one. I used an air filter that fits a snowmobile. Pumping silica dust into the engine doesn't seem like a good idea.

I used an aquarium pump, so just used aquarium pump filters on the inlet and outlet tubes in the silica gel container. I don’t think anything significant could make it through the sintered glass filters.