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Canopy Struts - A better way to do it

planenutz

Well Known Member
Installing gas struts on tip-up a canopy is a modification that has been around almost since the beginning. Certainly I recall gas struts were in service well before 1995… back in the "black and white days" (as my teenage daughter reminds me) when we all thought fax machines were a cool thing and most of the fax paper was used sending each other funny jokes. Communications about new ideas were typically passed around the globe by the RVator Newsletter and it took a while from the time an idea was first presented until the time we all caught up with it.

The gas struts were one of those modifications where somebody came up with a good idea, then somebody came up with a better idea, but the better idea was overshadowed by the lack of communication at the time. Everyone followed the guy in front of him and not a lot of additional thought was put into changing something that worked. A random photo is provided below of the standard setup most people employ (first picture).

Consider the geometry of the gas struts most people install. Everyone recognises that placement of the fuselage attachment halfway down the cockpit longeron is a bit restrictive as you catch your foot on it as you enter and exit the aircraft. Additionally, as you lower the canopy there is a point where the gas strut can no longer support the weight of the canopy and for the person closing the canopy, it gets heavy. Then as you close the canopy further the gas strut is pushing forward and providing no useful assistance at all. With the canopy in the up position the gas struts are holding everything quite secure and this is of course something we want, especially on a windy day. It works, but it could be better.

There is another method. I can’t take credit for the idea (sadly) but in my mind the geometry is better in every way. Refer to the second photo below. The gas struts are attached to the longeron further forward for a start, providing much easier entry and egress from the cockpit. The gas struts support the weight of the canopy almost all the way down so at no time do you end up supporting the entire load of the canopy above your head. In fact on most aircraft you can have the canopy open a couple of inches and the gas struts will hold it there with ease. There is no “over-center” to work against you. In the full open position the canopy is just as secure as the more frequently used geometry, if not more so, as it is supported further up the canopy rail.

Overall its just a smarter idea.
 

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Struts would need to be stronger than the current ones in use.

Not as wind resistant in the open position as the current design.

I have never had a problem getting in or out of my tip-up RV6A.

I am sure there is a better way..... and this may be it. Please report back in 500 hours.
 
500 hours later...

Hey Gasman... I've just done the Annual on a machine with this geometry that's done 1000 hours and I can assure you this is a much better method of installing the struts, proven by years of service. I've seen several RV's set up this way and never seen an issue with wind resistance.

And you're right - the struts are 75N, not 50N.

Will locate some additional photos and dimensions once I get back to the local airport.
 
Additional Photos

I called out to the airport on the weekend and grabbed some additional photos of the gas strut installation.

The forward attachment point on the canopy rail is 2.5" aft of the Instrument panel. On my own RV-6 I recall placing a doubler under the rail for extra support but it's probably not necessary.

The rear gas strut support is 27.75" aft of the forward canopy hoop.

As you can see in the first photo the gas struts support the canopy throughout its entire range. Here the canopy is sitting almost closed and its held up only by the struts. It becomes a one-finger operation to left or close the canopy.

This particular machine (which is not mine) has over 1000 hours and first flew in 1996 so this is not a "new" idea - its well-proven. I also disagree that its more susceptable to wind... I think its actually better supported.

There are a number of RV's flying around with this set-up but I notice its just not as common as the method most people copy.

I took some video of the canopy being opened and closed too if anyone needs it.
 

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Other benefits that come to mind...

- In the event of wanting to jettison the canopy in flight, they will be working with you instead of against you
- When closed the struts aren't pushing on the front corners of the canopy, which may contribute to the lifting of the corners in flight (and may also contribute to the cracking issues some of us have seen next to the pivot arms)
 
And you're right - the struts are 75N, not 50N.
Can you check that again, and maybe take a photo of the rest of the label on one of them? :) It was so close... :)

My current struts are 28# (125N) each. The stock ones are 25# if I recall, so still over 100N.
 
Sorry Rob, I did take a photo of the label but missed posting it. Attached here for you.

I was handed a note the other day which provided the part numbers used on four of the local ships and it indicates that 50N was found to be too low and that 100N was too high. My struts were manufactured at 75N however they're a bit flat so I sent them away for regassing last week. I'll have a better idea on the ideal pressure in a few days.

The part number provides the dimensions of the gas strut as well as the end fittings used.
 

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Supplier's website?

Hi Mike, I don't get any hits googling that part number. Do you have a link to the supplier's website?
 
I think I'll give this geometry a try. Could you confirm the dimensions of the struts you used? I too was unable to locate any info from the label you provided.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Sorry gents - I've been on the road this week visiting customers so please bear with me and I'll get you some additional information which should help you order the right items.

Cheers,
 
Strut Measurements

I managed to put a ruler on the struts yesterday.

The gas cylinder is exactly 12" in length, PLUS the end fitting, which adds another 1.25" to the overall length of the cylinder. The Rod is 10.25" in lenght (and it uses pretty much the entire stroke available), again, PLUS the end fitting.

And since a photo tells a thousand words...
 

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If people are trying to find them by length, they'll need the center-to-center dimensions of the actuator, open and closed. That's the center of the pivot pin to the center of the pivot pin on each end.
 
Thanks for the pictures. What would be very helpful is a link for the website for your specific strut. I've had no luck googling for struts that are in the range of 23" and are only 75N.
Regards,
Mike
 
If people are trying to find them by length, they'll need the center-to-center dimensions of the actuator, open and closed. That's the center of the pivot pin to the center of the pivot pin on each end.

Roger that.

In fact it's not that critical because you can vary this a little and still be able to get your geometry right. The struts on my own RV-6 are a slightly different length to the other RV-6 based locally.

I just measured mine - pivot point to pivot point is 23 7/8" or 606 mm. You could make it an even 24" and still be on the money.
 
The rear gas strut support is 27.75" aft of the forward canopy hoop.

Getting ready to do this mod to my new install on an RV6. I am not sure what you mean by canopy hoop. Any thing I measure from 27.75 seems to far aft. What looks close to me vs the pictures is 21.25 aft of the canopy frame bulkhead. Any chance you could recheck that.
Thanks,
Ryan
 
Gidday Ryan. By canopy hoop I'm talking about the forward "C-section" frame that forms the foward part of the canopy - the one to which the hinge arms are welded. But make sure you position this correctly for the strut you have purchased.

If you have the cockpit rail attachment point sorted (just aft of the Instrument Panel) then the location of the anchor point on the canopy frame is going to be determined by the position of the gas strut when in the closed (compressed) position. You can adjust this position as required for the gas struts you've purchased. Hop inside, close the canopy and mark the location of the gas strut attachment point on the canopy frame with the gas strut compressed.

Give me a shout if you get stuck. I'll double-check that measurement for you though.


cheers,
 
Thanks Mike,
I found some struts that seem to be pretty close to what the dimensions in the previous posts were. I am waiting for them to arrive. I had figured that I would pretty much have to adjust accordingly. I will know more when I have the struts in hand.
Ryan
 
Care to share what struts you ordered and from where? I'm striking out trying to find the length and force combo.

Thanks
 
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Right. So. Apologies. I clearly can't add. I think that's probably the reason I was never accepted for pilot training in the Air Force. :D

Yes, you're much closer with your 21.25" than I was with my 27.75". I measured this again for you this afternoon and used a tape measure that didn't require me to do any addition. The measurement is 21.75".

Much better. Sorry about that.
 
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Other benefits that come to mind...

- In the event of wanting to jettison the canopy in flight, they will be working with you instead of against you

As I'm building a slider I don't have a dog in this hunt, but it seems to me that with the original geometry, when you pull the handle, the struts would push up the leading edge of the canopy to where the wind can tear it off
With this configuration, it looks like the struts would be pushing mostly aft?

Don't know if it would make a difference or not. It's not like anybody has ever actually jettisoned a canopy anyway, so it's probably a moot point.

Just something to think about
 
As I'm building a slider I don't have a dog in this hunt, but it seems to me that with the original geometry, when you pull the handle, the struts would push up the leading edge of the canopy to where the wind can tear it off
With this configuration, it looks like the struts would be pushing mostly aft?
With either geometry, the canopy can't move "up" much at the front because the "arms" that the canopy hinge on extend under the forward skin. It's necessary to get the back edge up, then move the whole canopy back few inches, before the front edge could be lifted into the airstream. Moving it back with the stock configuration would be almost impossible without disconnecting the struts first.
 
The struts I purchased are from Liftsupportsdepot.com Part # C16-21572.
They are 75 DN.
 
OH MAN, this works so much better! RV-6 tip ‘em up canopy. I got two struts part number C16-21572-W from Lift Supports Depot (www.liftsupportsdepot.com) and the price was pretty reasonable, $61 delivered. Had I known they were Chinese copies I might have kept looking but they’re working fine. I’m seeing some dimensions shared around but I just made up the forward attach bracket for the struts, put it near the instrument panel, then located the aft attach bracket to put it where the strut is not quite completely compressed with the canopy down. So. Now the side-to-side sway is mostly gone, the canopy works easily and opens a bit wider so it’s easier to get in and out, and I no longer worry about it falling down. This is one of the very best mods I’ve done on this airplane!
 
Thanks Mike! Just ordered a pair of Suspa C16-21572 struts from AMAZ.... for $38 Cdn delivered. Looking forward to replacing the current struts which are getting weaker. The original struts were installed as per the RV7 instructions but have never fully supported the canopy when closing, but were OK when the canopy was fully open. Fingers crossed that these will actually support the canopy in transition.

 
As I'm building a slider I don't have a dog in this hunt, but it seems to me that with the original geometry, when you pull the handle, the struts would push up the leading edge of the canopy to where the wind can tear it off
With this configuration, it looks like the struts would be pushing mostly aft?

Don't know if it would make a difference or not. It's not like anybody has ever actually jettisoned a canopy anyway, so it's probably a moot point.

Just something to think about
Something else to consider is if you are ever in a need to attempt a canopy jettison, your mind will be going a thousand miles per hour and your hands will probably automatically jerk the struts off their mounts.
I have been in quite a number of accidents (not aircraft) in my life and been blown up a couple times. And my experience is, you do things very fast to save your ^^#$.
Well, I was in two almost crashes in aircraft, But, training and brain took over and I'm still here today
My luck varies Fixit
 
I'm pleased you're finding this geometry to be superior to the way the factory plans would have you build it.

I finally managed to work out that my gas struts are 100N, so keep that in mind if you're ordering. I could probably go to 110N next time.
 
Thanks Mike! Just ordered a pair of Suspa C16-21572 struts from AMAZ.... for $38 Cdn delivered. Looking forward to replacing the current struts which are getting weaker. The original struts were installed as per the RV7 instructions but have never fully supported the canopy when closing, but were OK when the canopy was fully open. Fingers crossed that these will actually support the canopy in transition.

+1 on these Suspa struts...and they're made in 'Merica

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MUY76O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
 
I installed the Suspa C16-21572-W struts in my RV6 with the new geometry. What a difference! No more wobble as I lower the canopy and it's supported almost all the way down. It's also much easier to raise the canopy, as it goes straight up and doesn't drag on the seat back. The only negatives: it's 89N (20lbs) another couple of pounds would be an improvement and the length could be an inch or two longer. My canopy doesn't open quite as far as before, but it's not a show stopper.
 
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