Van's Air Force
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New (03-25-2013) Garmin G3X Products and Prices
- Thread starter g3xpert
- Start date
Hello Scott, thanks for the questions - let me try to hit them one by one:
Yes, the GEA 24 can work with resistive fuel level sensors, or with capacitive fuel level senders that output either a digital signal (frequency) or an analog voltage (0-5V or 0-12V). There are several VAF members currently flying the G3X system with the exact capacitive sending units you mentioned.
We know people are using the information in the Text Out format for a variety of applications, so we strive to avoid changing the format of the data unnecessarily if we can help it. The only modification in the works to the Text Out format is that a previously "reserved" field will now be used to output angle of attack data.
The GEA 24 has a few more input channels as compared to the GSU 73, and has additional ground and power pins to make wiring more convenient. The pins are also all standard-density for easier installation.
You can certainly connect 3 axes' worth of trim position, and you can monitor up to 4 contact-closure type inputs such as an oil level switch.
The GSA 28 trim motor power outputs are designed to drive a Ray Allen type of actuator, up to 1 amp. It's possible that if you had some kind of bigger trim motor you could drive it from the GSA 28 via relays, although you would of course lose the speed control functionality. An alternate arrangement would be to use the GSA 28 trim motor outputs as the inputs into some other third-party trim control unit.
Good question. The GSA 28 servo does not perform trim input mixing, so if you have more than one set of trim switches you will still need some manner of mixing device, relay board, etc.
Hope that helps, let us know if you have any more questions.
thanks,
- Matt
Yes, the GEA 24 can work with resistive fuel level sensors, or with capacitive fuel level senders that output either a digital signal (frequency) or an analog voltage (0-5V or 0-12V). There are several VAF members currently flying the G3X system with the exact capacitive sending units you mentioned.
We know people are using the information in the Text Out format for a variety of applications, so we strive to avoid changing the format of the data unnecessarily if we can help it. The only modification in the works to the Text Out format is that a previously "reserved" field will now be used to output angle of attack data.
The GEA 24 has a few more input channels as compared to the GSU 73, and has additional ground and power pins to make wiring more convenient. The pins are also all standard-density for easier installation.
You can certainly connect 3 axes' worth of trim position, and you can monitor up to 4 contact-closure type inputs such as an oil level switch.
The GSA 28 trim motor power outputs are designed to drive a Ray Allen type of actuator, up to 1 amp. It's possible that if you had some kind of bigger trim motor you could drive it from the GSA 28 via relays, although you would of course lose the speed control functionality. An alternate arrangement would be to use the GSA 28 trim motor outputs as the inputs into some other third-party trim control unit.
Good question. The GSA 28 servo does not perform trim input mixing, so if you have more than one set of trim switches you will still need some manner of mixing device, relay board, etc.
Hope that helps, let us know if you have any more questions.
thanks,
- Matt
Hello Trevor,
The GAP 26 uses the standard AN5812-style mounting pattern, so any of the "tear drop shaped" pitot mounting masts should work fine.
- Matt
I don't quite understand this answer. If I interpret correctly you are saying that I'd wire up my control stick's hat switch to the EFIS? Or does it get wired to the servo? I also take it to mean that if I have two sets of trim controls, I'll need something external to mix them down into one set. Do I have it straight?
Let's see if I can do a better job of stating it simply...
* If you have a single trim switch (pilot only), you connect the trim switch directly to the inputs on the GSA 28 servo.
* If you have two trim switches (pilot and copilot), you connect them to a third-party trim mixing unit (relay board, etc) and then connect the output of that device to the inputs on the GSA 28 servo.
In both cases, the trim motor connects to the GSA 28 servo. When the autopilot is not engaged, the pilot's (and/or copilot's) trim commands are used to drive the trim motor, with courtesy speed reduction based on airspeed. When the autopilot is engaged, the GSA 28 servo runs the trim on its own based on how much torque it knows it's holding.
And of course we put in fail-safe circuitry so that if power is removed to the GSA 28 servo, the trim inputs and outputs on the servo become directly connected to one another, so you can still run the trim motor directly from the switch.
- Matt
Hello Andy,
Although they can work together, the autopilot and trim are separate systems so you would want to have a separate circuit protection device for each one.
- Matt
GAP 26 Installation
I am busy wiring the wings and would like to run the wires for the heated pitot while on the bench. This is from the manual.
Table 4-2 GAP 26 Wiring Specifications
Power Source Wiring
Wire Length Wire Gauge
0 - 12 Feet 14 AWG
13 - 20 Feet 12 AWG
21 - 33 Feet 10 AWG
Does the length refer to the distance from panel to pitot AND BACK?
Where is the control head for the automatic pitot heat located? In the wing close to pitot or somewhere else? If I understand correctly then 4 wires need to be pulled, all of same gauge?
I could not find this info in the manual, but good chance I overlooked it or looked in the wrong place!
Thanks.
Johan
I am busy wiring the wings and would like to run the wires for the heated pitot while on the bench. This is from the manual.
Table 4-2 GAP 26 Wiring Specifications
Power Source Wiring
Wire Length Wire Gauge
0 - 12 Feet 14 AWG
13 - 20 Feet 12 AWG
21 - 33 Feet 10 AWG
Does the length refer to the distance from panel to pitot AND BACK?
Where is the control head for the automatic pitot heat located? In the wing close to pitot or somewhere else? If I understand correctly then 4 wires need to be pulled, all of same gauge?
I could not find this info in the manual, but good chance I overlooked it or looked in the wrong place!
Thanks.
Johan
Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
I will take a stab at this, but I have no idea of the specifics of your particular pitot.
In my plane, the control is in the same bay as the pitot mount.
I ran a single wire from the pitot heat switch to the control box, and grounded the system locally.
Short wires to the pitot heat from the control box.
In my plane, the control is in the same bay as the pitot mount.
I ran a single wire from the pitot heat switch to the control box, and grounded the system locally.
Short wires to the pitot heat from the control box.
Hello Johan,
The GAP 26 heater control unit will not be available for a few months, so it is not documented in the manual yet. If you use the wiring guidance for the heated non-regulated version of the GAP 26, you will have no trouble installing the heater control unit later on. The control unit can be mounted inside the wing or any other convenient place where it won't get directly rained on.
We strongly recommend that you do not use the airframe as a ground return conductor for any high-current devices such as strobes, lamps, or the pitot heater. Doing so can cause magnetic interference (see this thread for more information). Best practice is to run a proper ground wire back to the single-point ground located near the battery.
The wire sizes shown in the table are in reference to the distance from the pitot heat switch to the GAP 26. Use the same gauge of wire for both the power and ground wires, and when in doubt always consult AC 43.13 for guidance.
- Matt
Thanks Matt,
Will the heater controller not require a temperature sensor in the heated pitot to controll the current to the heating coils to maintain a preset temperature at the pitot irrespective of the OAT? If so, is one or two more wires required to transfer this info to the controller?
Even for the pilot controlled heated pitot, how does the pilot select one or both heaters on? Or are both always on at the same time when pitot heat is selected on?
Just thinking out loud.
Thanks.
Johan
Yes, that's correct - small-gauge wire connects the temperature sensor inside the pitot tube to the control box.
- Matt
Pilot controlled pitot heat
Matt,
For the pilot controlled heated pitot, how does the pilot select one or both heaters on? Or are both always on at the same time when pitot heat is selected on? I assume pilot controlled is either on or off?
Trying to figure out the differences and choices. Can you shed load in the controlled heated pitot if required (turn it off)?
Thanks.
Johan
Matt,
For the pilot controlled heated pitot, how does the pilot select one or both heaters on? Or are both always on at the same time when pitot heat is selected on? I assume pilot controlled is either on or off?
Trying to figure out the differences and choices. Can you shed load in the controlled heated pitot if required (turn it off)?
Thanks.
Johan
Hello Johan, thanks for your detailed questions about the GAP 26. In the heated/unregulated version, our recommendation is to connect both heaters as shown in the installation manual, in order to ensure adequate heating in all flight regimes.
In the heated/regulated version, the heat control unit has a 24" wire pigtail bundle that you use to connect it to the pitot tube and to the rest of your aircraft. If for some reason you need to mount the control unit further away from your pitot tube, you can extend the two temperature sensor wires using 22 AWG stranded wire. The control unit also has an output wire which you can optionally connect (using 22 AWG) to a discrete input on your GEA 24 EIS interface unit, in order to monitor pitot heat status on your PFD display.
- Matt
In the heated/regulated version, the heat control unit has a 24" wire pigtail bundle that you use to connect it to the pitot tube and to the rest of your aircraft. If for some reason you need to mount the control unit further away from your pitot tube, you can extend the two temperature sensor wires using 22 AWG stranded wire. The control unit also has an output wire which you can optionally connect (using 22 AWG) to a discrete input on your GEA 24 EIS interface unit, in order to monitor pitot heat status on your PFD display.
- Matt
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boomer
Well Known Member
A few questions on the GDL 39R:
1. Is the June 2013 release date still up-to-date?
2. Does it work exactly as the portable GDL 39, i.e. can I use the 39 manual as a guide?
3. I presently have a 696 married to a Dynon system with the 696 talking to the Dynon. If I use the 39R, I assume I mount it between the Dynon and the 696 and the 696 data will continue to pass through the 39R to the Dynon. Is that correct?
4. Are any antennas included with the 39R?
5. Finally, are there any photos and dimensions for the 39R?
Thanks,
John
GDL39R
Hello John,
Yes, the GDL39R works just like the GDL39, but with a different enclosure and connectors.
Yes, just like the GDL39, the GDL39R is capable of performing the "port forwarding" function using a second serial port on the GDL39R. You retain all of the functionality of the original 696 serial port even after using that port to connect the GDL39R.
Like the GDL39, the GDL39R has built-in GPS and Bluetooth antennas, but it also includes BNC connectors to attach an external UAT antenna and an external GPS antenna, if needed. The built-in antennas are the only included antennas.
It won't look exactly like this with the final injection molded enclosure, but this is a picture of a functional 3D model that should be similar in appearance and size.
We don't have final dimensions/mounting pattern or any new information on availability to share yet.
Thanks for your interest,
Steve
Hello John,
Yes, the GDL39R works just like the GDL39, but with a different enclosure and connectors.
Yes, just like the GDL39, the GDL39R is capable of performing the "port forwarding" function using a second serial port on the GDL39R. You retain all of the functionality of the original 696 serial port even after using that port to connect the GDL39R.
Like the GDL39, the GDL39R has built-in GPS and Bluetooth antennas, but it also includes BNC connectors to attach an external UAT antenna and an external GPS antenna, if needed. The built-in antennas are the only included antennas.
It won't look exactly like this with the final injection molded enclosure, but this is a picture of a functional 3D model that should be similar in appearance and size.
We don't have final dimensions/mounting pattern or any new information on availability to share yet.
Thanks for your interest,
Steve
Robert Anglin
Well Known Member
I like.
I like this 39R. Will we see one at the big show, this year?
I like this 39R. Will we see one at the big show, this year?
GAP 26 Pitot
Reading the from Garmin?s website, "automatic temperature regulating pitot that helps save power and prevents the pitot from heating to excessive temperatures". I am on the wings, and there has been substantial debate on here as far as pitot selection, but let me ask this. Between the 2 different versions of the heated pitot, if I was to choose the heated/unregulated version and inadvertently activate it or leave it activated in-flight (I live in South Texas, won?t be used for locals most likely) is there a chance that the pitot will over heat and deform or possibly have minor material expansion/separation that could degrade or render the pitot unusable or damaged beyond limits? I have not decided on my avionics yet, really like Garmin but yearly Maintenance costs are still a con, and GRT or AFS is looking impressive/affordable as well. So going with the Garmin GAP 26 now while on the wings will work with all 3 for ASI and leave the possibility that if things change in favor for me and Garmin when FWF time rolls around I will be covered.
The main question is, is the unregulated version thermally protected from overheating itself or is it up to the pilot to control the heat cycles/protection?
Reading the from Garmin?s website, "automatic temperature regulating pitot that helps save power and prevents the pitot from heating to excessive temperatures". I am on the wings, and there has been substantial debate on here as far as pitot selection, but let me ask this. Between the 2 different versions of the heated pitot, if I was to choose the heated/unregulated version and inadvertently activate it or leave it activated in-flight (I live in South Texas, won?t be used for locals most likely) is there a chance that the pitot will over heat and deform or possibly have minor material expansion/separation that could degrade or render the pitot unusable or damaged beyond limits? I have not decided on my avionics yet, really like Garmin but yearly Maintenance costs are still a con, and GRT or AFS is looking impressive/affordable as well. So going with the Garmin GAP 26 now while on the wings will work with all 3 for ASI and leave the possibility that if things change in favor for me and Garmin when FWF time rolls around I will be covered.
The main question is, is the unregulated version thermally protected from overheating itself or is it up to the pilot to control the heat cycles/protection?
Hello Randle,
Thanks for your questions. The unregulated version of the GAP 26 will get quite warm (well over 400° F, depending on ambient conditions) but it is designed to withstand much higher temperatures without difficulty. So there should be no worry about damaging the unregulated GAP 26 by leaving it on - you will just consume more power. As you can imagine, we have sophisticated testing facilities, including an icing wind tunnel and vacuum chamber, all of which which we've used to do extensive testing and validation of the GAP 26's heating and anti-icing capabilities. We also have several long-term test articles that have been running at full blast for close to 3000 hours with no problems.
Also, I'm sure you already know that our basic US VFR database package (navigation data, terrain, and obstacles) is only $99 per year, but I thought I'd mention it.
- Matt
Thanks for your questions. The unregulated version of the GAP 26 will get quite warm (well over 400° F, depending on ambient conditions) but it is designed to withstand much higher temperatures without difficulty. So there should be no worry about damaging the unregulated GAP 26 by leaving it on - you will just consume more power. As you can imagine, we have sophisticated testing facilities, including an icing wind tunnel and vacuum chamber, all of which which we've used to do extensive testing and validation of the GAP 26's heating and anti-icing capabilities. We also have several long-term test articles that have been running at full blast for close to 3000 hours with no problems.
Also, I'm sure you already know that our basic US VFR database package (navigation data, terrain, and obstacles) is only $99 per year, but I thought I'd mention it.
- Matt
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bobmarkert
Well Known Member
MCP ( GMC 305 Mode control Panel)
Poking around on your website I see there are two versions of the MCP (Mode Control Panel GMC 305). One with and one without the Yaw Damper switch. Request for version 2 of the MCP..... Add a TOGA switch to all the MCP's and keep the option of YD or no. You Guys rock!
Poking around on your website I see there are two versions of the MCP (Mode Control Panel GMC 305). One with and one without the Yaw Damper switch. Request for version 2 of the MCP..... Add a TOGA switch to all the MCP's and keep the option of YD or no. You Guys rock!
Hello Bruno,
The least expensive US database package that includes IFR approach plates is $249 per year. There are a variety of other options depending on whether you want Jeppesen or FAA navigation data, what other equipment is in your panel, and so forth. I hope you'll find this price sheet informative (page 11 and page 8).
thanks,
- Matt
Hello Bob - we like the GMC 305 too! TO/GA is a great feature but we have found that the best way to use it just like they do in certified airplanes, with a separate pushbutton next to the throttle. This makes it very easy to install right where you need it in a hurry.
thanks,
mcb
G3X software 8.00 released
Hi folks,
Just wanted to let you know that software update to support all these great new devices is available, and the GEA 24, GSU 25, GAP 26 (-00 version), GSA 28, and GMC 305 are now shipping. The software change list is posted in this thread.
- Matt
Hi folks,
Just wanted to let you know that software update to support all these great new devices is available, and the GEA 24, GSU 25, GAP 26 (-00 version), GSA 28, and GMC 305 are now shipping. The software change list is posted in this thread.
- Matt
AOA/ Heated Pitot
Hi Matt: I installed the older ADAHRS GSU73 and would like to install the heated pitot/AOA unit but I was told at Sun'n Fun that I had to have the newer GSU 25. Will there be a fix for those of us that have the older unit? I'm not interested in tearing out my older GSU73 since it's only been in my airplane for about a year.
Hi Matt: I installed the older ADAHRS GSU73 and would like to install the heated pitot/AOA unit but I was told at Sun'n Fun that I had to have the newer GSU 25. Will there be a fix for those of us that have the older unit? I'm not interested in tearing out my older GSU73 since it's only been in my airplane for about a year.
Hello Bill,
Brian is correct, you can add a GSU 25 to your system without removing anything, and gain the benefit of a second ADAHRS as well as angle of attack. That's what I'm doing with my airplane, which already had a GSU 73 in it.
- Matt
Brantel
Well Known Member
Hello Haydn,
Unfortunately I don't have visibility into the order system, but I do know that the new products listed in my earlier post are shipping - that would be the GEA 24, GSU 25, GAP 26 (-00 version), GSA 28, and GMC 305. I know we've been flooded with orders, so it may be a little while until they get caught up.
I'm not sure the information about the manuals is completely accurate as of this writing, as the current install manual and pilot's guide are both available on the web right now. Hope that helps.
- Matt
The install manual is available for download in the Garmin website...and new systems have been shipping now - though I happen to know there are a LOT of systems on order!
Depending on where you are in the queue with your dealer and Garmin, I'd bet it'll arrive before too long. We had another cutomer stop by and pick his up today; so I can confirm they are shipping.
Cheers,
Stein
New & Improved?
As we were near placing an order for a complete dual G3X system, some friends and an avionics sales person suggested waiting for 6 to 9 months. The logic is anything bought now will soon be obsolete, and future pricing may be more attractive. The fuselage of our project is ready now for wiring / avionics, plus it is open on one side making access simple.
We will not fly before September of 2014. Should we forge ahead, or tap the brakes just a bit?
As we were near placing an order for a complete dual G3X system, some friends and an avionics sales person suggested waiting for 6 to 9 months. The logic is anything bought now will soon be obsolete, and future pricing may be more attractive. The fuselage of our project is ready now for wiring / avionics, plus it is open on one side making access simple.
We will not fly before September of 2014. Should we forge ahead, or tap the brakes just a bit?
grayforge
Well Known Member
There are rumors of a larger screen G3X coming.
But once you get to the point where there's nothing else to work on, it's time for the avionics.
Do you have your engine yet? I went engine first, avionics later since, over time, engine prices increase and electronics decrease.
But once you get to the point where there's nothing else to work on, it's time for the avionics.
Do you have your engine yet? I went engine first, avionics later since, over time, engine prices increase and electronics decrease.
ColoRv
Well Known Member
Avionics last. Put the gear on, attach the empennage, hang the engine, fit the cowl, finish the canopy, get it all done...then buy and install the avionics, put the forward top skin on, windscreen, wings, go fly.
The above was not my path, but if I do it again....it will be. The next generation of avionics is out very quickly....everything else stays the same.
The above was not my path, but if I do it again....it will be. The next generation of avionics is out very quickly....everything else stays the same.
There are rumors of a larger screen G3X coming.
But once you get to the point where there's nothing else to work on, it's time for the avionics.
Do you have your engine yet? I went engine first, avionics later since, over time, engine prices increase and electronics decrease.
The engine will be ready soon, however the fuselage is separate from the wing center section / landing gear. My thinking was that since the fuselage is mostly done, and with it being on it's own stand and one side opened up, this would be the time to forge ahead with the electronics and wiring. Once the fuselage is mated up with the wing, it will be much more difficult to install anything! Now we have complete access from floor level.
A larger screen on the G3X would be OK, but touchscreen is not what I want. Ever been flying in continuous light / occasional moderate turbulence and try to navigate a screen with your fingers? Plus...all those greasy fingerprints!
EGT & CHT only?
I am in the process of planning what will hopefully be the final panel.
Since I like my large format 3" Tach and MP they will stay on the rh side.
Front and center I would like the G3X
My question is can I run a single screen G3X and display only the EGT and CHT and oil temp in the engine data above the PFD? Or will there be red x's for the missing rpm and MP info.
Secondly, since I have an SL 30 currently feeding a mid continent CDI
Is there a manageable way to share the SL30 with the G3X ?
Thanks in advance.
I am in the process of planning what will hopefully be the final panel.
Since I like my large format 3" Tach and MP they will stay on the rh side.
Front and center I would like the G3X
My question is can I run a single screen G3X and display only the EGT and CHT and oil temp in the engine data above the PFD? Or will there be red x's for the missing rpm and MP info.
Secondly, since I have an SL 30 currently feeding a mid continent CDI
Is there a manageable way to share the SL30 with the G3X ?
Thanks in advance.
Hello F1R,
Yes, you may install/configure just the engine gauges you wish to be shown on the G3X display. It does not force you to have a minimum set of gauges.
It doesn't sound like you are presently using the RS-232 interface on the SL 30, so it should be no problem to connect that to an RS-232 channel on your display (as shown on page C-8 in the G3X Installation Manual).
Please set the Indicator Head Type to "SERIAL" on the SL30 and the connected serial port on the GDU 37X to "GARMIN VHF NAV/COMM".
Let us know if you have additional questions.
Thanks,
Steve
sglynn
Well Known Member
Garmin vs Dynon
Is a Garmin EFIS system priced as low as Dynon for similar functionality including a couple servos, autopilot, EFIS and engine monitoring?
Thanks for saving me some analysis time.
Is a Garmin EFIS system priced as low as Dynon for similar functionality including a couple servos, autopilot, EFIS and engine monitoring?
Thanks for saving me some analysis time.
At this point, forget price and go with the better of the two units. You will find the Garmin to be very competitive from a price standpoint.
jthocker
Well Known Member
Don't forget to consider GRT, they have very fine products and are competitively priced.
grayforge
Well Known Member
GDL-39R Question regarding Discrete Input
Hi Garmin Gurus,
In reviewing the manual (Rev H) for the GDL-39R, I see that the Discrete Input (Pin 1) can be used to remotely power the unit on & off. The manual says to ground this pin to power the unit on and remove ground to power it off. It also says to not connect this wire if not using a remote switch...
Isn't 'not connecting' the pin the same as removing ground, and so not allowing the unit to power up?
Thanks!
Russ
Hi Garmin Gurus,
In reviewing the manual (Rev H) for the GDL-39R, I see that the Discrete Input (Pin 1) can be used to remotely power the unit on & off. The manual says to ground this pin to power the unit on and remove ground to power it off. It also says to not connect this wire if not using a remote switch...
Isn't 'not connecting' the pin the same as removing ground, and so not allowing the unit to power up?
Thanks!
Russ
