[mack55]

All, I installed my prop oil line per the lycoming manual. My case is a narrow deck 360 so I do not have the boss mount for the standard clip. I added some adel clamps and a zip tie pad. The line runs right past the plane power alternator and I have to have the alternator at max tension to keep from hitting the line. See attached pics. I thought about bending the line to hug the case a little tighter but I don’t think that will give me a ton of additional clearance. Any ideas?

 

[Flyhud]

You can tweak the line to get more clearance, just make sure that it sits in place and is centered on the flared fittings without having to bend the line or it being in any kind of bind. More importantly though, those clamps you installed are completely ineffective. Remove both of them and refer to AD 90-04-06 for proper oil line clamp parts and location.

Dynamic Regulatory System

drs.faa.gov

 

[ljpappas]

All, I installed my prop oil line per the lycoming manual. My case is a narrow deck 360 so I do not have the boss mount for the standard clip. I added some adel clamps and a zip tie pad. The line runs right past the plane power alternator and I have to have the alternator at max tension to keep from hitting the line. See attached pics. I thought about bending the line to hug the case a little tighter but I don’t think that will give me a ton of additional clearance. Any ideas?

I had the same problem. Turns out, there are more than one alternator mounting arms available from Plane Power. They sent me one for a Continental, which looks alot like the one you have. The Lycoming model is longer with a more pronounced downward angle at the outside. I also had to buy a longer belt to make it all fit well. Here is a pic of the longer bracket.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I had the same problem. Turns out, there are more than one alternator mounting arms available from Plane Power. They sent me one for a Continental, which looks alot like the one you have. The Lycoming model is longer with a more pronounced downward angle at the outside. I also had to buy a longer belt to make it all fit well. Here is a pic of the longer bracket.

Longer belts can lead to pulley contact with the cowl under g load.
The shortest belt that can be installed, should always be used.
The best choice (shortest possible) belt will require that the belt be in place in the pulley groove on the alternator and the ring gear support, and then put the ring gear support in place on the crank shaft flange.

 

[ljpappas]

Longer belts can lead to pulley contact with the cowl under g load.
The shortest belt that can be installed, should always be used.
The best choice (shortest possible) belt will require that the belt be in place in the pulley groove on the alternator and the ring gear support, and then put the ring gear support in place on the crank shaft flange.

Agreed. I had to obtain a longer arm and belt, but not so long as to cause the issue you reference. Simply...don't let your alternator or belt contact your cowl under any circumstance on any machine!

 

[Toobuilder]

Looks like an easy tweak to the hard line and make a few proper “L” brackets for adel clamps at the case bolts. That zip tie thing is just asking for trouble.

 

[ljpappas]

When I installed the longer bracket, it gave me the range of adjustment that I needed to allow for belt stretch without the possibility of contact with the cowl. The short bracket did not allow for any adjustment in my installation. It was maxed out at initial install.

 

[agent4573]

I had to remake my prop line too. It hit the alternator and it didn't clear the motor mount with what I considered enough clearance.

 

[jbDC9]

I had the same alternator interference years ago with that SS prop governor oil line; my solution was to replace it with a flexible hose. Easy, problem solved.

 

[RV6_flyer]

Brings back memories for me. The bracket that attaches the alternator to the engine was where I had an interference problem. Ended up solving the problem with a FLEX hose line and the B&C alternator brackets.

 

[Southern Pete]

Yep, a flexible hose can be the way ahead.

 

[AN23]

I just had Tom at T&S flightlines make me a flexible hose. MUCH better solution in that it can be easily adjusted so it doesn't touch anything and the firesleeve supplies some abrasion protection if, by chance, it does. My old stainless one had a notch, on the backside) where it had been touching. No way to see it until we removed it for engine work.

 

[mack55]

Thanks all for the responses. I tweaked the hard line and added some adel supports. I need to check the belt tension and cowling interference. Hope to get there in the next couple weeks.