Estevanb

Active Member
Hi all!

I am looking for some advice and/or best practices concerning sensor wiring splice on the firewall forward environment. Is it okay to use soldering sleeves?

Thanks
 
Hi all!

I am looking for some advice and/or best practices concerning sensor wiring splice on the firewall forward environment. Is it okay to use soldering sleeves?

Thanks

Here's my solution for CHT and EGT. Used Omega Connectors

Available here: https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/23931/



CHT EGT Connectors.jpg
 
Love most of EI stuff but not a fan of their connector.

I've been crimping ring terminals on EGT/CHT wires forever, most probes come with ring terminals already installed so why cut them off.
Like most wiring jobs, having the correct crimp tool and terminals is the key to success.

As for the Omega connectors their ok if you have to, but you just added another connection point which is vulnerable to corrosion/vibration etc..

As for the other sensors, I use butt splices with enough service loop to replace the sensor if it becomes necessary. Again, Amp butt splices/ring terminals crimped with the proper tool are absolutely bullet proof, way better than any connector.
 
What about soldering the splice using solder sleeves? My concern is more related to the material of the joints interfering with the resistance of the thermocouple. Would that be an issue?
 
for low power lines, i use db-25 pins and a piece of shrink tube over them.
My 2c, this is a waste of time and not as reliable as a butt splice. Ever try taking this connection apart? Nearly impossible without damaging the wire.
Learn to use red/white/yellow butt splices and you’ll never do that again.
 
What about soldering the splice using solder sleeves? My concern is more related to the material of the joints interfering with the resistance of the thermocouple. Would that be an issue?
Soldering EGT/CHT thermocouple wires won't work. Those wires aren't copper / tin. Always some odd thing like iron and some other metal. Every try to solder to iron? Doesn't work.
Hence for thermocouple probes you have to use a mechanical connector. Also, be sure to never extend with anything other than the correct type wire. If you add a copper 'extension' you just created another thermocouple at the splice.

EDIT:
I learned below that with appropriate solder and flux, some types of thermocouple wire can be soldered.
But, you know, I basically standby my original statement... you can't solder them with the ordinary tin/lead solder you are likely to have at hand.
 
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Don’t stress about adding a dissimilar metal in a typical FWF thermocouple splice. If you add it to both leads of the TC the added voltages will cancel as long as both splices are near the same temperature.

crimp sealed butt splices for me
 
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I am no expert but I used the connectors that came with the Dynon wiring kit. This picture was taken while doing the connection.
I also supported the connection junction between two adel clamps to keep them from getting loosen.

chtconnect.jpeg
 
I am no expert but I used the connectors that came with the Dynon wiring kit. This picture was taken while doing the connection.
I also supported the connection junction between two adel clamps to keep them from getting loosen.

View attachment 63238
And these are exactly what failed on me enough times to throw in the towel and go with Omega connectors. And yes, I have all the correct crimp tools for all the types of connectors used on the plane, including PIDG.
 
I used the barrels from a terminal lug (cut off the lug) and crimped the two wires together. then shrink sleeving
 
As I understand it, and what I and plenty of others experienced, is that it's the crimp of the solid wire J- or K-type thermocouple wires that causes the problem. For whatever reason, the crimp "loosens up" or something over time (vibration effects?), and then you get jittery, jumpy signals. And recrimping the same connectors may work for a while, eventually it won't and you need to cut the connector off and crimp a new one on.
 
Don’t stress about adding a dissimilar metal in a typical FWF thermocouple splice. If you add it to both leads of the TC the added voltages will cancel as long as both splices are near the same temperature.

crimp sealed butt splices for me
Helped a friend with his funky EGT temps. It had multiple crimp splices, dissimilar wire extensions, and a toggle switch to check bank A vs. bank B. All I can say is now with proper thermocouple extension wire, elimination of the extra splices, now using above noted EI splices, elimination of the switch (went to a dual needle gauge)... his two banks read as expected. Never did in the past. What exactly the problem was, I don't know. But there was plenty of poor practice that got removed.
 
The comments about not soldering thermocouples are, sadly, somewhat uninformed. Some aircraft (the HU369 jumps immediately to mind) require the EGT thermocouples to be soldered. They solder perfectly well... with silver solder. I've done tons of them. If they will stand up to life in a commercial helicopter they'll stand up to life in an RV.
 
Omega
The comments about not soldering thermocouples are, sadly, somewhat uninformed. Some aircraft (the HU369 jumps immediately to mind) require the EGT thermocouples to be soldered. They solder perfectly well... with silver solder. I've done tons of them. If they will stand up to life in a commercial helicopter they'll stand up to life in an RV.
From Omega (all things thermocouples)

Is it Possible to Solder Thermocouples?​

Omega does not recommend that thermocouple wires be soldered. With the exception of the Type T copper leg, thermocouple alloys do not solder easily. It is possible to solder these materials, but very aggressive flux is typically needed to remove oxides from the surfaces during soldering. If soldering is done, then it is important that the flux is completely cleaned from the wires, and a close inspection for cold solder joints is made.