Slider roller track

This is yet another problem with my quick build fuse that was built too wide at the front roll bar area. Keeping the roller tracks parallel the over hang at the rear is greater than plans show. After removing material to clearance the tracks from the side skirts I'm left with a notch that the rollers will get caught on.

I'm thinking of making some kind of stop about an inch before the end of the track. Has anyone else had this issue?

I think the Stop an inch forward or so is the way to go.

Get another plastic block, shape it to fit inside the rail, 2 counter sunk screws from the top and you should be good to go. As always tho theres a million ways to skin a cat.

Just my 2 cents.

-david

fuel line automotive tubing

Just use two pieces of fuel hose from your favorite automotive store and make them 1.5 to 2" in length, place them in the track behind the roller and put some aluminum tape, we called it speed tape back in the day, to cover the notched out area on the track. It will keep the hose in the track in the aft section, just get the right size hose, it will be a tight fit and you will need to squeeze it in there. The AL tape is covered by the slider side skirts. Hope this helps...

carl

I inadvertently removed too much as well. Didn't really need to and mine hangs up as well. I haven't fixed it yet but I didn't want to limit the movement to the rear. It seams the space between the seat back brace and canopy is a limiting factor for large objects in the baggage area and I did not want to limit it futher. I am thinking that the fix may be to insert a thin piece of aluminum plate in the track to cover the hole from the inside. Maybe glue or epoxy in place.

Simple stop I created to solve the same issue




Before trimming

RhodeIsland9 said:

This is yet another problem with my quick build fuse that was built too wide at the front roll bar area.

Click to expand...

So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.

MarkW said:

I inadvertently removed too much as well. Didn't really need to and mine hangs up as well. I haven't fixed it yet but I didn't want to limit the movement to the rear. It seams the space between the seat back brace and canopy is a limiting factor for large objects in the baggage area and I did not want to limit it futher. I am thinking that the fix may be to insert a thin piece of aluminum plate in the track to cover the hole from the inside. Maybe glue or epoxy in place.

Click to expand...

Mine is the same way , and yes, I blame myself for not picking this up before removing too much metal. Like Mark I haven't "fixed" it yet because I've got used to pulling the canopy to the right as I close it. It only caught sometimes when I first started flying the 9a and I was going to replace the rail, but now because I automaticaly slightly pull the canopy to the right as I close it, it is a none issue! It is only an issue with the left rail as I fitted that one first and didn't make the same stuff-up on the right side .

Dbro172 said:

So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.

Click to expand...

I had the same concern's, but I found when I came to do the job. By working from the top down with the rivets, the rivets pulled it down better than the cleco's and it turned out fine.

Dbro172 said:

So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.

Click to expand...

+1. I have a QB 7A with the exact same issues. Misery loves company! Glad the issues, and solutions are being discussed since I am working on my canopy now!

Dbro172 said:

So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.

Click to expand...

The longerons on my quick build fuse were bent incorrectly. The panel and top skin would not fit. I only discovered this after months of work were already done (tail and wings drilled, interior painted ect.) so I was stuck with the problem. It took another couple weeks to convince Vans that there was a problem. At first they told me to put a large clamp across the fuse and pull it into position. Well that did NOT work.

I finally dicided to drill out and remove both top decks on the right side (the worst one) and re-bend the longeron. I had Van's make new top decks without the holes pre punched and back drilled through the existing holes.

Rivets not set correctly, hole miss drilled for the bellcrank, poor fit and finish work... Someone from Vans inspected this before shipment

No surprise that I will not recommend a QB fuse to anyone. I could have built what was done in the same time it took to fix all the issues in mine. Total waste of $$ IMHO.

This picture was taken after the decks were removed showing the longeron bending out.



BTW, I feel the top decks and the baggage floors should be left off the QB fuse for the builder to install. The first thing I did was remove the floors to install the steps. I remember thinking, why am I drilling out rivets?

About 5 years ago I provided Van's an analysis of the canopy fit problem that was directly related to the width of the cabin. This is a manifestation of the same problem.

It appears that there is no structure to control the upper cabin width at the spar station. This leads to the canopy track fish-mouth problem, plus a need to (often) cut and weld the canopy frame to make it fit.

I did a survey of several RV's with sliders and measured the cabin width at the roll bar and interviewed the builders. There was a positive correlation between width and canopy fit problems. Total width variation was in the order of 3/8 to 1/2 inch as I recall.

I wish Van's would publish this dimension so builders can fabricate a jig when building the fuse. Better yet, they should use a jig at the Quickbuild factory.


See http://www.vx-aviation.com/rv-9a/Tips.html

While I understand your frustrations with this and other problems Vern. If Vans published what you are asking as well as all the other head scratchers that we encounter during the build, then we would finish up with an instruction manual twice as large as it is and this in turn would create more confusion with the manual. The manual needs to be kept as simple as possible while still retaining all the information to be able to complete the build. I back this up with my own experience.

As part of my company we supply race cars in "you-assemble" kits. Our assembly manual used to be very comprehensive, but we used to get a lot of phone calls from confused builders. I overcome this problem by re-writing the assembly manual using the "KISS" princible. The manual is now half as thick as the old one and I would get less than a quarter of the calls I used to get with the old manual. The secret is not to lead the builder by the hand and have them running back to you everytime they strike a hitch, but direct them where to go and thus encouraging them to think more for themselvs and to think more ahead, then in most cases they will see a problem before it becomes a problem, or nut a problem out before they ring for help.

As I have already stated in my earlier post, I finished up with this fish mouth eye sore on my left slider rail and I lay it squarely on myself for not checking the width of the fuse at that point before charging at the gate and modifying the slider track to this extent. I discoverd my stuff-up when I came to mount the right slider track and measured across. I then re-mounted the left track. If I had of done the measurement before mounting the left track, I would not have had this eye sore!

Bob
RV9a slider

You are both right.

RetiredRacer said:

While I understand your frustrations with this and other problems Vern. If Vans published what you are asking as well as all the other head scratchers that we encounter during the build, then we would finish up with an instruction manual twice as large as it is and this in turn would create more confusion with the manual. The manual needs to be kept as simple as possible while still retaining all the information to be able to complete the build. I back this up with my own experience.

As part of my company we supply race cars in "you-assemble" kits. Our assembly manual used to be very comprehensive, but we used to get a lot of phone calls from confused builders. I overcome this problem by re-writing the assembly manual using the "KISS" princible. The manual is now half as thick as the old one and I would get less than a quarter of the calls I used to get with the old manual. The secret is not to lead the builder by the hand and have them running back to you everytime they strike a hitch, but direct them where to go and thus encouraging them to think more for themselvs and to think more ahead, then in most cases they will see a problem before it becomes a problem, or nut a problem out before they ring for help.

Bob
RV9a slider

Click to expand...

The above is very true. But as Vern said, they should provide a dimension for a jig to hold the fuse at the right width. This never come up until it becomes problematic. It only dawned on me that my problems were due to a too wide fuse when I stumbled across Vern's post he mentioned, then it all made sense. Controlling this dimension would save a few phone calls regarding slider fit up, I'm sure. Regardless of this issue, I still completed my slider in about a month, mostly weekends