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Canopy Strut Bushing C00002

D

DanWright

Well Known Member
Page 34-03 calls for bushing C00002 on the end of the gas strut which attaches to the fuselage.

C00002 is not listed in the parts list, parts inventory, nor is it included on "The List" at Vans. What have I missed?

Thanks
 
34-03

I looked at my canopy strut. It has a 3/8" aluminum spacer, no bushing. But Van's changed the plans since I built my plane. If you drilled one end of the strut to 3/8" as instructed on page 34-02, step 1, then bushings will be needed for the 1/4" bolts. Call Van's Support.
Joe Gores
 
The change was made to better stabilize the bolt with it fully torqued against a larger diam. bushing.
It was found that after a lot of time in service the bolt will start to rock.
 
Scott.....
Any suggestion as to what us early builders should be checking during each conditional inspection?
 
I got my finish kit in November 2009, and it had the bushings. So it seems any kit that came after that should be OK. Marty, when did you get that section? As to inspection for play, I would think it would be pretty obvious if there was movement there where the strut bolts on.

Ignore above. I was wrong. See my post #10 below.
 
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DanWright said:
Page 34-03 calls for bushing C00002 on the end of the gas strut which attaches to the fuselage. C00002 is not listed in the parts list, parts inventory, nor is it included on "The List" at Vans. What have I missed?

Thanks
Click to expand...

My kit came with the original spacers, so I just emailed Vans to order the new bushings as they weren't listed on-line.
 
This is getting confusing, just what is the current and best recommended setup here?
Click to expand...
It is best to use C-00002 bushings according to the latest plans revision.
Joe Gores
 
LOVE THE BUSHINGS ! ! !

I installed them today. Used step-drill. Less than 1/2 hour job. Mine were getting very sloppy. Really firmed them up ! WORTH DOING ! ! !
 
Yeah Don, it is a bit confusing. As a matter of fact, I was mistaken about what is installed in my plane. Upon further looking, the bushings I have were the earlier 1/4" ones. I'll be ordering the C-00002 bushings tomorrow.

What confused me the most was that on the original drawing the spacer was called out as a bushing.
 
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I have a bushing on the canopy connection and a spacer at the fuselage connection. Calling Van's on Monday to order.
 
Still Confused

OK, is this a SB or plans change? Here is what my plans say, and clearly it lists the bushing size as .375 x .375 x .259. Do I need that C-00002 bushing or not? Is the bolt changed? My plans say to only snug the bolt enough to preclude side play (which obviously creates the problem). Do we drill out the strut to 3/8, or what?
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I tried to order C-00002, C00002, 00002 from Van's web site with no joy.

Do they have it available on line or do you have to call?
 
I just called on the phone with that part number-no problem. I ordered new bolts also. Total was about 6 bucks.
 
Now I have to decode that washer number and see what it really means. Why do they have to change numbers so much.
 
More wall thickness???

OK, I admit confusion. My kit was shipped in Aug 09 and I don't have the plans here at home, but I did notice the strut attach bolt moving a bit when I flew yesterday. Does this new bushing just have greater wall thickness? I can't see that we could use a different bolt without replacing the nut-plate. Or is the bushing necked with one end fitting into the strut itself?

THANKS
Wayne
 
Wayne - -

you have to drill the strut end to 3/8", and the new stepped bushing goes inside the strut end, and you can now tighten up the bolt which makes it very solid. Order 2 bushings and use a step drill to take the hole from 1/4" up to 3/8".
 
Installed the new bushings today. I also noticed the screw/bushing/washer/nut at the other end of the strut had loosened some and was pretty sloppy. I removed the whole strut anyway so I could use the drill press to get a nice straight hole enlargement for the new bushing, so had a chance to tighten both ends. Solid as a rock now. I would advise anyone planning on drilling in place to check the other end of the strut as well, and tighten if necessary. Also a good idea to lube both ends - there is not much rotation on these ends, but enough to wear things over time if left dry.
 
Got mine

For those who were having trouble understanding what the new ones was all about, mine came today and here is a photo so you can see what is going on. A really fine fix I think. (Strut not installed for clarity)
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Thanks guys,

Those photos really cleared things up. My bushings are on the way and will be installed with some lube. Also like the idea of using the drill press.

Wayne 120241/143WM
 
I installed the bushings last week and, as posted by others, it really stiffened up the mounting.

Today I was showing the aircraft to someone at an exhibition in the UK. It was a bit windy (10 knots) and the canopy was up. Suddenly both bottom gas strut "ears" snapped and the canopy swung forward towards (or possibly onto) the cowling.

I'm not sure if my onlooker caught the canopy before it hit the cowling. There was no damage to the canopy or cowling, fortunately, but I will need new gas struts or new ears at least if these are renewable. Anyone know if the ears can be removed/replaced?

I'd advise you to think twice before installing this update, if you have not already done so. I propose to advise Vans, too.

Cheers...Keith
 
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I will agree with Keith on this. By the time the ears are drilled out enough for the bushing, they are thin. It does stiffen up the mounting though.
 
Ho the Mainsail my Maties!

This point is duly noted & maybe Vans will make metal ends to go on the gas struts. But I think it's important for all of us to understand that all planes are somewhat fragile. Care should always be taken when opening and closing the canopy. It acts like a big sail in windy conditions. Also it can be blown down very quickly if you try to leave it open during engine start. Durning full power run ups it can float upward if not secured. Always think of the wind direction when parking at unfamiliar ramps before opening up in windy conditions. This is just an idiosyncrasies of our model like the aft window and fuel exposure.;)
But thanks for the info.:D
 
gblwy said:
I installed the bushings last week and, as posted by others, it really stiffened up the mounting.

Today I was showing the aircraft to someone at an exhibition in the UK. It was a bit windy (10 knots) and the canopy was up. Suddenly both bottom gas strut "ears" snapped and the canopy swung forward towards (or possibly onto) the cowling.

I'm not sure if my onlooker caught the canopy before it hit the cowling. There was no damage to the canopy or cowling, fortunately, but I will need new gas struts or new ears at least if these are renewable. Anyone know if the ears can be removed/replaced?

I'd advise you to think twice before installing this update, if you have not already done so. I propose to advise Vans, too.

Cheers...Keith
Click to expand...

I broke one of my struts ear (my mistake) some time ago while dismounting the canopy. As it's just a piece of plastic screwed into the arm, I tried to order one. No chance at VAN's but they gave me the phone number of the supplier. No chance there either, they don't do that. Had to order the full part. With this new mod, it would be nice to have the ear made of metal (although it's an opportunity for the vendor to sell more struts ;))
 
With a lathe and milling machine in my shop tool inventory, it don't look that hard to just make me a pair from metal if they are not commercially available.
 
DonFromTX said:
With a lathe and milling machine in my shop tool inventory, it don't look that hard to just make me a pair from metal if they are not commercially available.
Click to expand...

That would be great, Don, put me on the waiting list for 2! :D

Seriously, I think we have not seen the end of this story. Even with the smaller hole I though that the plastic head looked a tad weak (in my case it broke when I tried to unscrew the bolt while the strut was under pressure - not trying to find an excuse for my mistake). With a larger hole made with step drills or other kind of workshop tools, there is a chance for weak spots in the plastic leading to future incidents like the one reported by Keith.

Let's see: 4 heads per RV-12 times 700 kits = 2800 pieces. Almost worth going at it as a side business, Don! :D
 
Vans response was: This is the only complaint. Order another couple of struts. This, of course, doen't make the unit any stronger.

Does anyone know if the ends just unscrew anticlockwise. They seem to be tight and I don't want to attempt to unscrew the "wrong" way. I may try to get a couple of ends made up in steel or ali with a bronze bushing.

Cheers...Keith
 
To expand on this a little further...

Many RV-12's have been operating for quite a while now with struts drilled to this diameter. It is doubtful by this time, that there hasn't been many other wind tests of the strut strength (I know there has been on N412RV).

So, short of having a lot more detailed information (chance to examine the failed struts, etc.) regarding this one instance, it would make no sense to begin a redesign process. When time becomes available in the future, a load test will be performed. Current speculation is that the failure point will be somewhere other than the strut end... we shall see.
 
I'll take a set, too, Don

After drilling out the holes I had exactly the same thought: "this doesn't look like there's a lot of material left and it was a LOT softer than I expected it to be." I'm thinking about ordering a new pair of struts "just in case" but would really like some aluminum ears! Meanwhile, I'm being VERY careful with the canopy.

Wayne 120241/143WM
 
Thanks for your input guys. Having removed the gas struts I see there is a metal core embedded within the black plastic, it's about a third of the width of the end-piece so not too thick. It's not magnetic so not steel.

I couldn't remove the end-piece without risking damage to the rod, so gound down the piece until I could see what was going on. There is a threaded core to the rod but it is small diameter, and an obscure thread pitch (for us European types anyway).

I'm thinking of cutting off the narrow-diameter thread, then threading the end of the rod. The end piece to be made in steel will have a female thread to match. I don't recommend aluminium unless it has a bronze bushing, as ali to ali is probably not a great solution.

And belt-and-braces, I'll probably just order two more C-1216 units anyway.

Cheers...Keith
 
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Another possible option, having done another installation using struts, they do come in a large assortment. Is there a maker name and number on the struts? Knowing some things about the strut, it is possible that one with more sturdy ends exists in the supply chain, that has the same specs..
 
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