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  #1  
Old 12-07-2012, 07:49 PM
Stalldog Stalldog is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 331
Default Another Tank Bracket Problem for Those That Follow

I ran into something that I haven't seen in the other posts on this subject, so maybe I'm just special in my screw ups! I'm posting this so that maybe my experience will help others down the road, or maybe someone can show me the error of my ways.

On both outboard brackets near the splice plate, as shown below, my predrilled 1/8 hole is slightly off center (away from the root and toward the wingtip) from the hole in the tank baffle. Since I followed the instructions, I already have all the brackets bolted into place on the spar, so there is no adjustment available other than slotting the 1/8 rivet hole in the bracket, or make new outer brackets. All of the other brackets, including the inboard root bracket on both wings, align perfectly, as do the tank skins, spars, and baffles. The only problem I have is with these outermost brackets on both tanks, which is puzzling -- everything else fits great.

I contacted Van's and they said this problem is not uncommon and recommended that I slot the bolt holes in the outer brackets; however, since I already have the nutplates installed, with the rivets countersunk, that won't work, so I'm faced with ordering new brackets. I can't imagine having overlapping countersinks would be smart, even if it is just to hold a nutplate in place. Van's also recommended NOT slotting these 1/8 rivet holes in the brackets since a good fitting rivet is preferred to help insure a tight, leak-free tank. I can understand that.

Hindsight is 20/20, but at this point I wish I had waited on drilling the single 1/8 rivet hole and the three AN3 bolt holes in the outer bracket on both wings so that I could make this adjustment AFTER fitting the tank baffle in place. Maybe if I could have found the Dan Checkoway? method this would have been avoided, but I haven't been able to find that posted anywhere.

Oh well, I've ordered two more Z brackets and more nutplates and AN3 bolts. Just a heads up for those that follow. Again, not sure what I did wrong, but something went awry somewhere.



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Lenexa, KS

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  #2  
Old 12-07-2012, 11:08 PM
compren compren is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 78
Default I am no expert

These pages might help some...

http://www.rv7factory.com/log/060108.php
http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/2009/...-to-spars.html

These are not my websites, so thanks to those who took the time to document the process so thoroughly.
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2012, 11:19 PM
DaAV8R DaAV8R is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 741
Default Tanks?

The good news is that you are moving right along. When are you going to be done? I need someone to take me for a ride
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Lee's Summit, MO
RV-8 - Empennage & Wings Done
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1946 Cessna 120
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2012, 11:26 PM
Stalldog Stalldog is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 331
Default

Yeah, I've got plenty to work on while waiting on the replacement brackets. I still haven't ordered the Proseal yet. Thought about doing it today with the brackets, but not sure when I'll ACTUALLY be ready for it, AND I WANT IT FRESH FRESH FRESH.

I can take you for a ride in the 150, but it won't be at the speed to which you are usually accustomed!
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Lenexa, KS

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  #5  
Old 12-07-2012, 11:40 PM
Stalldog Stalldog is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 331
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Compren, from your links I see that the mistake I made was following the instructions and drilling the 1/8 inch hole in the upper flanges at the same time as drilling the bolt holes in the bottom flanges. Fortunately all of the bolt and rivet holes lined up except for the outer bracket rivet holes on both wings. I'm still not sure why those brackets didn't come out like the others, but whatever the reason, at least I know how to fix it with new brackets.

Hopefully those that follow will know to wait on drilling any of the rivet holes in the brackets until after mounting the brackets on the spar. All that is really necessary is to mark the centerline to be sure everything is in the right place. There's no reason to drill the 1/8 rivet hole in each bracket ahead of time. Maybe they should change the instructions?
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2012, 09:29 AM
RV7ator RV7ator is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 932
Default

You got the Van's answer to something they know is wrong but won't fix. "Not uncommon" truthfully should be "always". I've found this problem in five -7 builds and addressed it in several posts. Try searching for all my posts then refine with "tank brackets" or some other terms until you find the relavent ones.

John Siebold
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:06 PM
Stalldog Stalldog is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kansas
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Thanks, John. Yeah, I plan to do things a little differently when my replacement brackets arrive. I ordered four, so will also remake the inboard brackets to give me better access to the nuts with a socket.

Too bad Van's doesn't update their instructions. It's such a minor item but sure would help save some $$$ and time and frustration. Especially when so much of the kit goes together so well.
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2013, 02:15 PM
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riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 246
Default Same problem here!!!

Hi everyone!

Same problem here...

I wish I'd seen this post before last month!!!

Even if I took extra care in centering those 1/8" holes, some weren't perfectomundo center and didn't quite align properly with the baffle. The worst one is seen here:


My hole , the one on the left, was off to the left, couldn't cleco the baffle so I drilled through and see how off it becomes... Even the new hole is off centre also!!!

Maybe I got it all wrong with the instruction... But it seems to me that these 1/8" holes should be made after the Z's are bolted to the spar as per the Dan Checkoway method.

New Z's, platenuts and bolts ordered... 12 hours and money lost...

Next time, I will follow Dan's method!!!
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2013, 03:34 PM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
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Default

I screwed these up on my 9A also - same deal. This is definitely a common problem that needs to be addressed in the building directions.
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2013, 09:03 PM
Stalldog Stalldog is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 331
Default

Amen, brothers! I won't tell you how many of these dang z brackets I've ordered from Van's -- getting quite good at making them! The Checkoway method is the way to go. It's the only way I can find to ensure you have a good fit at the splice plate AND have good tank to bracket rivet holes.

One caution, however, and it's a biggie. I was using the Checkoway method when my drill stop slipped and I drilled into my spar. It was on the inboard tank rib over the top spar cap. Realistically, I didn't have to drill this in place, but since everything was going so well I thought this would give me a good rivet fit in match drilling all the rib holes to the #1 bracket, most inboard. It's been a full month and I'm still waiting on an answer from Van's engineering, but one note they sent 2 weeks ago didn't sound good. So, if you use the Checkoway method on your new brackets, DO NOT DRILL THE INBOARD ROOT RIB TO BRACKET HOLES WHILE THE RIB IS IN PLACE AND OVER THE SPAR CAPS. Wait and drill those four holes later with the tank off the wing. This stupid little thing may in fact put an end to my build, so don't let it happen to you. AND YES, VAN'S NEEDS TO CHANGE THEIR INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING TANK BRACKETS.
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