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Flaperon adjustment

yankee-flyer

Well Known Member
Not very long ago there was some discussion about correcting a heavy wing by moving the flaperon attachments up or down, but I can't find it. Anyone point me at that thread?

THANKS

Wayne 120241
 
Wayne, we had a heavy wing problem and we found that the adjustments for the flaperons to the actuator arms was in error per the construction plans. To solve it, we took the nuts and bolts out of the eye bolts and clamped both trailing edges of the flaperons even with the trailing edge of the tips. Then we screwed the eye bolts in to the desired plans ( 5/32 if I remember correctly) depth and reattached the flaperons with the arms. When you do this make sure the control stick stays verticle in the cockpit and does not move. This should solve your problem as it did ours. If it does not you may have to adjust the flaperon contol linkages in the floorboards and that is alot more difficult!!!! Good luck. It seems that the distance from the center of the eye bolts to the skin measurement is critical for proper aerodynamic feel and flight!!!!!

Doug Robison
 
Doug, I am interested in this procedure, but confused. Did you clamp both trailing edges to the tips at the same time and proceed with the adjustment or did you clamp and adjust one flaperon at a time. Thanks.
 
I had a heavy left wing. I aggressively squeezed the trailing edge of the light (right) wing. It helped some, but the left wing was still heavy. One day I noticed that the rod end bearings on the right wing were screwed in farther than on the left wing. The flaperon skin was almost touching the bearing bracket. So I turned the rod end bearings out (down) one full turn on the right wing to make both wings the same. Now the plane flies level. Problem solved.
Joe Gores
 
Wayne, reference pg 18-06 of the plans, the rod end bearings measurement is 11/32, not as i said previously. It is the critical measurement to strive for. This assumes that all the other measurements for the controls to the flaperons are accurate, ie. torque tube lengths, etc in your construction previously. Ideally, what you are trying to do is get both flaperons when positioned to up, no flaps lowered position, to be completely faired with the rest of the wing while the sticks in the cockpit are absolutely vertical. Yes, clamp both flaperons at the same time, carefully, to the tips without the flaperons connected to the actuating arms for the flaperons while maintaining the control sticks vertical, don't let them move at all, tape them securly. Then make sure your rod end bearings are screwed in with the 11/32 measurement on all 4 rod end bearings. Then re attach the rod end bearings to the actuating arms and this should be the proper alignment for this rigging. If you do this, the flaperons and wings should be symmetric across the longitudinal axis and should solve most of your roll problem. If it does then a slight roll can be solved by pinching the trailing edge CAREFLLY and minimally to take out the rest of the heaviness. If you can not attach the rod end bearings and arms at this time, then you have to adjust the torque tube lengths keeping the sticks verticle until you can. This is a lot of work and goes easier with 2 people. I hope you do not have to do this as it takes a lot of time and work. I personally had to re-measure all the torque tube distances before I got to this point as we had mis measured multiple times and created a bigger problem for ouselves. If you are sure all the other linkages are correctly measured, then this should solve all of your problems. If not, it may call for pulling up all the cockpit floorboards under the seats and realigning the linkages to get them absolutely correct length with a verticle stick position first, then doing the alignment of the flaperons as in the first part of this post. Unfortunatelly, Vans did not put any access cover plates at the back of the flaperon pushrod tubes in the belly of the fuselage to allow easy access for this alignment and adjustment. Just a side comment, the accuracy of everything in this kit is absolutely amazing!! We created our own problems when we built our 12! My opinion is, that, if you are very careful and precise during your construction and measure multiple times with the same measuring device before final assembly, this airplane will be as true and accurate and will not need much tweeking to get it to perform as advertised. Remember, garbage in garbage out, also applies to aircraft building. I can not sell the product any more than I already have. In fact, we are building an 8 also and it does not have nearly the same precision engineering that the 12 does. Hope this helps.

Doug Robison:):(
 
Loose rod ends!

43WM was an early build, before the changes to the plans calling for the smaller drill size and Loctite in the holes for the rod bearing. They were a sloppy fit then but I pulled the flaperons today and they were VERY loose-- as in wobbly. There was a lot of dark crud on the threads indicating wearing of the aluminum block. I put lots of Loctite on them and threaded them back in checking the distance measurement very carefully. When the Loctite set the rod ends did not move. Not VFR today but I hope to flight test tomorrow to see if there's any difference in the "heavy wing".

If you were an early builder I'd pull the flaperons (wings do NOT have to be pulled) and check the rod end bearings for play.

Wayne 120241/143WM (first flight 2 years and 2 days ago)
 
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