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New Panel

penguin

Well Known Member
Patron
After 12 years Casper has a new panel. The old one was rather hacked about and would not stand being hacked again to install an EFIS, so starting from scratch was in order. That allowed me to remove the Exp Bus 2 electrical system that was becoming unreliable and to replace it with regular fuses and a 2 bus distribution system, as suggested by Bob Nuckolls.

This was what I started with

Before.jpg


After building as much as possible on the bench

NewPanel2.jpg


It was time to pull the old panel out of the airplane to cut the top contour

Ripped_Out.jpg


Soon it began to look sensible

NewPanel3.jpg


And then the wiring started, which took a while. Eventually everything was back in the airplane and could be checked out. The most difficult part was trying to ensure there was going to be sufficient space between the canopy frame (tipper) and the top of the autopilot box. The height of the radio stack is fixed but it was difficult to figure out exactly where the canopy frame would come to. Everything fits, but it took a great deal of careful measurement. There is probably 1/16" to spare. I hooked all the P-S connections up with push fit connections from Avery/Safe-Air, supplied by Gloster Air Parts. Its the first time I have used these - it definitely wont be the last, they were really easy to work with (but brake lines will not fit into the connectors - its just too large, make sure you have enough pipe!).

On_the_way2.jpg


I've now been flying with it for a few weeks and am beginning to learn how to use all the stuff I have installed.

After2.jpg


If I did this again I would probably have left out the KLX-135A. It really is an old GPS, and I have not yet been able to get the NMEA output to talk to the AF-4500 - but I'm still hopeful. I was loath to throw away a box that was expensive and still worked well, but it is very limited compared to what is available today. The comm on the SL-30 is much better than the 135 comm (I used a wing tip Bob Archer VOR aerial which works well). The GTX-330 is way too much transponder for my needs, a Trig or Funkwerk 2.25" Mode S device would have been better (but I already had the 330 - long story). Full size back-up instruments are much better than small, but it was difficult to fit them into a regular size 6 panel with a tip-up canopy (losing the top 1.5"). The ideal radio stack would probably be a 430 (or perhaps GTN-650 if I won the lottery) and an SL-40, plus intercom and a round transponder - or a remote control txpdr soon controlled from the AF4500 (or perhaps a 5500). The SL-40 could also be replaced by a remote controlled radio. The separate fuel gauges are to check fuel contents without booting the EFIS - but that means the EFIS fuel gauges cannot be connected. I'm still not certain I like the GT-50 g meter and might revert to a mechanical version. Apologies for the slightly rubbish picture of the panel while flying, but I was having to hold the camera over my shoulder to get everything in - so it was press and hope (several times), this was the best shot. The square switches in the centre of the panel are a frequency flip-flop for the SL-30 and the autopilot CSS/disengage switch - above those are the fuel pump and landing light switches (close to the throttle). The holes next to the slip ball are for the lights for the Gretz heated pitot. The Av8or GPS is adequate for the time being, but a bring 7" tablet (if one existed) running Sky Demon would be better - would probably mount OK on the RAM ball.

It was a lot of hard work - especially getting the wires back down the fuselage - but I'm very happy with the result. Next project is to add a quadrant throttle, followed by a wooden propeller to get rid of the 2600rpm limitation with the Sensenich metal prop.

Pete
 
Last edited:
Pete,
Nice panel. I also like the "engine start" button vs the key start. Where did you come up with the wiring for it?
 
The button is from a kit car catalogue also see here (English sites, but I'm sure similar products are available state-side). The wiring is straight forward, power from the bus bar to one terminal and out to the starter relay - I used the wire that used to connect to the keyed switch. There is also a light in the button which I connected to the output side of the starter relay so it illuminates when power is going to the starter, and so warns if the relay welds itself together.

Hope this helps, Pete
 
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