What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Use Safeair static port compatability with pop rivet

A

alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
I've heard a lot of issues with SafeAir1's flush static ports producing erroneous readings when compared to the simple but tried and true pop-rivet that Van's suggests. Thus, though I've already purchased the pitot/AOA/static kit, I'm having second thoughts about the static portion of it. Since I'm about ready to rivet the side skins, I really need to decide right now whether to use the flush port or just use Van's pop rivet port.

Anybody flying with the SafeAir ports who is actually happy with them? If I do go the pop-rivet route, can I still use the rest of SafeAir's tubing and fittings?

Thanks.
 
Well I am not flying yet so I can't say for sure. But I do know that if you put a pop rivet on there and then try to use the tubing from SafeAir1... it just won't work. They have these neat fittings where the tubes slide right in and are captured in them (quick release, though). Maybe you could fashion your own reducing system but it just wouldn't be as slick as the SafeAir1 system.

It's a really nice product.
 
I was reading ~6-7 KTAS low in cruise with a Dynon (Dynon heated AOA pitot) and safeair1 static ports. I recently cut the heads off of the pop rivets and glued them over top of the flush ports and now seem to be more like 3 KTAS low. I am still using 100% of the safeair1 kit, just have the head of the pop rivet on there to bring the static ports out away from the surface. Works well for me.

Scott - #90598 - N598SD Flying - 54 hours
 
Historical data seems to indicate that flush static ports are not as accurate as Van's pop rivet type. I'm talking about 10 years of posts from the Matronic's list, etc. I'm sure someone is running with flush ports and they are accurate, but it doesn't get much simpler and cheaper than Van's design.
 
I believe that the current version of the Safeair1 static port will protrude slightly through the skin (assuming you don't put any sealant in between the skin and the port). This may improve the situation. I had a discussion about this with Tony Munday of Safeair1 and I compared their current unit with one I had received some time ago and there is a difference in the depth of the protrusion on the port so that it would probably protrude by about .020. I'm not sure if that is enough so I plan to turn mine down slightly to get a protrusion of about.035 which I think is about what you would get from a pop rivet.
 
I installed the SafeAir ports with just a tiny bit of RTV between them and the skins. They are proud of the skin surface by a tiny bit. Not flying yet, but I'll report back hopefully later this year...

There are a few features I liked about them versus the others. They use pipe threads to connect the tubing versus a barbed connection. Also, they have several dimples for rivet locations, so you can drill out the ones you want to use. I used a pattern so there was no rivet right in front of the port.

Dave
 
I had installed mine with a little bit of pro-seal and they were SLIGHTLY proud of the surface. You can see my results above. Before and after pop rivet head glued over top to move it out further. No other changes.

Scott
 
Double Ditto.

I also bought their kit, love the quality, but first time I'm reading about errors. Is it a real problem? My kit also seem to protrude a little.

Where do you guys mount them, since you can't be spot on the Vans recommended location since the backing baseplate of the Safe1Air port will interfere with the bulkhead.
static_port.gif
SP_03.jpg


Did you simply move it 1/2" forwrd to clear the bulkhead OR is it that important to have it exact?

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback before I drill a hole in the side fuse.

Regards
Rudi
 
Last edited:
I just moved it forward a bit until it cleared the bulkhead. I don't think the forward/aft dimension is critical. Just try to maximum the clear area in front of the port. The camera focused on the reflection rather than the static port, but you can kind of see it here:
IMG_4122.jpg


I used a 4 hole pattern with the holes at 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, and 10:30.

Dave
 
Mine are located right about where Van's says to put them. Once they go through the skin, yes they stick out a LITTLE bit, but not much. Obviously not enough for mine because the pop rivet head made a "big" difference by cutting my true airspeed error in less than half.

Scott - #90598 - N598SD Flying - 54 hours
 
I just ordered a pitot tube and static port system from Evans aviation. Their static port is similar to Safe-air's. Anyone out there using Evan's and any comments?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top