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Replacing screws in fuel tank inboard access plate and sender

walkman

walkman

Well Known Member
This weekend I replaced the gaskets on my -6 inboard fuel tank access and the fuel senders. It was a real PITA getting those screws out and back in again, particularly on the left side as there is an additional line (primer maybe) all but blocking access to the screw.

The space is too short for a stubby screw driver and its difficult even with a screw bit in a socket wrench.

It would be much easier getting them in and out, not to mention avoiding tearing up the heads, if they were bolts instead of screws. Is there a reason I shouldn't use bolts next time?
 
Most everyone I know has changed to allen head bolts. Much easier to work with.
BTW, if you want to get rid of the leakage problem, throw away the gaskets and use pro-seal. The gaskets typically show signs of leakage after around 5 years.
 
Mel said:
Most everyone I know has changed to allen head bolts. Much easier to work with.
BTW, if you want to get rid of the leakage problem, throw away the gaskets and use pro-seal. The gaskets typically show signs of leakage after around 5 years.
Click to expand...

I actually bought both pro seal and spent the extra couple of dollars to try the gaskets first. I was planning on making a trip and with fuel in the tanks would had had to take several days to seal one tank at a time and wait for proseal to cure. turns out I didn't make the trip anyway.

it also turns out my left side fuel level, which was working great before hand, appears to be TU now :-( In this case maybe the gasket is a better idea, its certainly easier to open it back up for troubleshooting.
 
I am in favor of using proseal for the main access panel and the rubber gasket for the fuel level unit. The rubber gasket tend to last longer than the cork gasket. Replacing the rubber gasket should not be that difficult, not that I speaking of experince :)
 
Thats what that is...

A ha !! I have the handle for one of these that I inherited from a relative and I had no idea what it was for. I kept thinking I should toss it but I never did. Thanks for the education.

Kerry
 
Speaking of the now inop LHS fuel gauge...

I've been pondering why it all of a sudden doesn't work.

All the screw heads had plastic washers under them, not metal. How does the sender circuit get completed?

Shouldn't there be a ground-side completion of the sender circuit via a screw into the nutplate and thereby the airframe? Wouldn't plastic washers potentially prevent this circuit from being completed and thereby prevent the gauge from working?
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
8-32, 1/2" long, just like the screws Van's calls for on the original installation. Also, make sure you get the cad plated ones, not the black anodized. I think they are NAS1352's. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I used stainless steel. Since I didn't have time for pro seal to cure I used gaskets and used fuel lube as a sealant on both sides and on threads. With a few tweaks it appears to be sealed. I had to put some fuel lube on the threads of the sender connection screw to stop a seep there. I know I'm going to have to re-visit this in a little while, having replaced the screws makes that job easier.
 
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