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Prepping for my 1st Condition Inspection

tkatc

Well Known Member
My condition inspection is due next month. I am not the builder nor do I have an A&P rating. I want to document my progress here for any other buyer's who are experiencing this steep learning curve. I hope this will also serve to put my A&P at ease when he can see the work I've perfromed.

I will go further into my condition inspection but for now I am prepping and taking care of all the things I can BEFORE I get my A&P involved. Hopefully this will make things go a bit smoother.

I made my jacks last week. Not essential but I like them.

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I removed the wheel pants so I could replace the main tires and brakes as well as grease the bearings. These tasks are easy enough but time consuming when you have never done it before. The EAA website has instructional videos that help immensely.

Old pads and new.
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If you look closely you can see how much thicker the new pads are vs. the old.
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One set complete!!
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Old vs. New!! (As a rookie RV driver I was hard on my brakes!)
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Brakes complete! Nice rounded rivets with no cracks.
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The tires we just about done. :) Desser monster retreads!!
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The bearings were pretty gunked up too!
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Split the wheels and cleaned everything up. Now I'm ready to repack the bearings and assemble.
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Satisfaction!! Now I just have to install. Not really looking forward to saftey wiring but it goes with the territory.
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If you decide not to replace the tubes with the tires, at least inspect the stem for corrosion on the back side. This can cause a slow leak.
 
Good tip Gasman. I did re-use the tubes and the valve stems looked great. I have a rubber grommet on my wheels that keeps water/debris out of the inside of the wheel. I was cursing them during the disassembly/assembly because it was very hard to get the stem out of the wheel but they do work.
 
I have developed a checksheet in Excel for our RV-6A

It is tailored for N710BJ but it is easy to edit if you have Excel on your computer. It has 158 items on it divided up into sections of the airplane and organized logically within the sections. I admit I was going to post it earlier but I worry that someone could use it and claim that I was responsible for them missing a critical check that lead to an accident. I believe that you work for the FAA and that is another cause for pause. When I started mine I did the research to find the specified lubricants, gaps, torque values, etc. and included them along with spaces for the actual names, numbers and values into the checksheet. You probably should consider doing something similar, even though you will not be doing the actual inspection, to make sure it is done right. Remember all of these airplanes are unique in some way and your average authorized inspector is not going to be familiar with them.

Bob Axsom
 
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Thanks Bob. My inspector has built an RV-8A so he I familiar. I do have a checklist similar to what you describe. It might even be yours because that tail number seems familiar. It would be funny if I was already following your list. I hate that we live in a society where we are always conscious of being liable. And don't fret about my FAA employment, I'm a controller at work but an aviator when I leave the workplace!! ; )
 
FWIW, Tony, it's recommended that you change tubes when changing tires, because the old ones stretch and may have a wrinkle or two inside the new tires, that could cause a failure and a leak.

Just keep your eye on the inflation and change them next time.

Best,
 
Thanks Pierre. I thought about changing them out but they held perfect pressure before. I've also discovered many disagree about wether it's necessary or not...:confused:

Anyway, anybody have any examples of how I should log this maintanence in my book? And do I need to retain the FAA form I got from Desser reference the tires?
 
Pull the valve stems and inflate and deflate a couple of time and the tubes should be fine... going on the third set of tires with no issues doing it this way. :)
 
FWIW, Tony, it's recommended that you change tubes when changing tires, because the old ones stretch and may have a wrinkle or two inside the new tires, that could cause a failure and a leak.

Best,

Pierre is correct, the tubes are the weak link in the tire chain and all tire manufacturers recommend you replace them when you replace the tires. The first time you get flat away from home you will wish you had not been so frugal.

I will not re-use tubes, New tires = new tubes.
 
I often wondered why when I had my brake pads changed on my car they stated my brake fluid was worn out and I needed new muffler bearings. :)
 
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Keep an eye on the retreads!

Keep an eye on the retreads when you get the pants back on.

I replaced my air hawks with the same retreads. New brake pads. Looked just like yours. I could hardly tell a difference in height. Nothing that seemed more than tire wear difference.

Did a dozen flights and thought one of my brakes was dragging. Pulled the pants and found boths sides had been rubbed on the top by the tire. One side even had gotten hot enough to make a small blister in the paint.:eek:

I put old tires back on and will be ordering new original tires this next annual.

I've got the original flat sided wheel pants if that makes a difference. I know the clearance varies by installation but the older style is tighter I believe.

Just a heads up.
 
i fly a lot so every year i replace the tires and brakes. the tubes are on condition, look good, i keep them. never had a main go flat, nose wheel is another story. keep the pressures up. :)
 
As an A&P with an IA, I suggest you get your A&P involved BEFORE any work gets started. An inspector feels more comfortable with an aircraft if they can make an initial inspection before subtle signs of potential problems are wiped away.
 
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The "before" comment is a good one. My A&P spent about an hour poking around my plane a few weeks before the actual condition inspection was to start. I never thought much about it at the time.
 
Good points!! All are well taken and I will be considering them. I doubt I will do much more to the airplane aside from the nose gear bearings and possibly cleaning the K&N and re-oiling it.

I am very sensitive to the tube issue and will keep a sharp eye on it. I am pleased to report however that the pressure has remained constant the last day or so. My clearance under the wheel pants look good. I safetied the caliper bolts and axle bolt and buttoned her up today.

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clearance front and back around pants with tires???

just to make sure you did not only look at top clearance.... but also opening at bottom (and sides) of pants.

my retreads required that I open up the clearance,... not a big deal as had not gotten to paint yet. The opening was fairly tight to begin with, (new tires) .. but unacceptable with the retreads
 
Some things I do

Engine:
Remove cowl
Inspect cowl
Inspect engine
Wipe down /clean engine & engine area
Change Oil and Filter (Champion CH-48110 Filter)
Run engine & check for leaks
Safety wire drain plug
Safety wire filter
Check Cylinder compression:
#1 = /80
#2 = /80
#3 = /80
#4 = /80
Remove and Clean/Replace spark plugs (UREM38S). Record condition of each plug
Check spark plug gap 0.016"-0.021" (0.021" preferred). Record gaps of all 8 plugs
but do not attempt to change the gap on fine wire plugs. Replace if necessary
Reinstall spark plugs (30-35 ft. lbs)
Remove airbox
Inspect area in airbox & carburetor
Clean or replace air filter
Reinstall airbox
Inspect the wiring in the engine area
Check the LASAR ignition timing
Inspect throttle control function & condition
Inspect mixture control function & condition
Inspect propeller control function & condition
Inspect carburetor Heat function & condition
Tri-flow lubricate rod endbearings on throttle, mixture, prop & carb heat controls
Remove Spinner
Inspect propeller
Lubricate Propeller (Aeroshell 6)
Reinstall spinner
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect baffelling
Inspect oil cooler
Inspect vacuum pump & hoses
Inspect oil lines
Inspect fuel lines
Inspect LASAR wiring
Inspect primer lines
Inspect alternator and wiring
Inspect starter and wiring
Inspect heater system ducts
Check NLG strut security
Reinstall cowl
Fuselage/Cockpit:
Inspect upholstery & clean
Inspect bagage area & clean
Inspect canopy/windshield & clean
Inspect fuel lines
Inspect carpeting & clean
Inspect instrument panel
Inspect cockpit lighting
Inspect wiring behind the panel
Inspect brake master cylinders and lines
Open flap actuator assembly
Inspect flap actuator assembly- Tri-flow lube bearing
Close flap actuator assembly
Remove Seats
Remove seat pans
Vacuum Area
Inspect roll servo installation
Inspect wing spar bolts
Inspect aileron pushrod boots
Inspect wiring
Inspect control hardware and function- Tri-flow lube bearings
Remove bagage bulkhead
Inspect pitch servo installation
Inspect elevator bellcrank- Tri-flow lube bearings
Inspect strob control box
Inspect ELT & check battery
Inspect wiring and coax
Inspect static system plumbing
Remove tunnel cover
Vacuum area
Inspect wiring and controls
Reinstall tunnel cover
Remove baggage area side panels
Inspect wiring and controls- Tri-flow lube bearings
Vacuum area
Reinstall baggage area side panels
Remove elevator horn cover
Inspect area, function & Tri-flow lube bearing
Reinstall elevator horn cover
Inspect antennas
Reinstall Seat pans
Reinstall Bagage Bulkhead
Vacuum baggage area
Vacuum seats
Vacuum seat pans
Vacuum carpet
Remove Battery cover
Inspect for insulation/chaffing protection
Reinstall battery cover
Wipe down instrument panel & glare shield
Reinstall seats
Wings:
Inspect wings
Inspect ailerons- Tri-flow lube bearings
Inspect flaps- Tri-flow lube hinges
Inspect lights & strobes
Remove right aileron bellcrank cover
Inspect right aileron bellcrank hardware & function- Tri-flow lube bearings
Reinstall right aileron bellcrank cover
Remove left aileron bellcrank covers
Inspect left aileron bellcrank hardware & function- Tri-flow lube bearing
Inspect Pitot tube, plumbing & heater
Reinstall left aileron belcrank cover
Remove right wing root cover
Inspect rightwing root area
Reinstall right wing root cover
Remove left wing root cover
Inspect left wing root area
Reinstall left wing root cover
Landing Gear:
Inspect Nose gear fairing
Remove nose wheel fairing
Check breakout force of caster ( >23lbs)
Remove nose wheel assemby
Clean all parts of nose wheel assembly
Lube Bearings (Mobile Aviation Grease SHC 100)
Reinstall nose wheel assembly per Rvator 2007 Issue #5, torque to 7 to 16 ft-lbs
(the bearing outer cone and seal must not move when the wheel rotates - higher rolling drag is normal)
Inspect nose wheel tire & pressure
Lubricate caster (general purpose grease)
Reinstall nose wheel fairing
Inspect right main Wheel Fairing
Remove right main wheel fairing
Remove right wheel assembly
Replace right brake pads (Cleveland 66-106)
Flip or replace tire to maximize wear and reinstall tire - align the red dot on the sidewall with the
yellow dot on the tube or the stem if there is no yellow dot.
Clean all parts of right main wheel assembly
Inspect the brake disk
Lube Bearings (Mobile Aviation Grease SHC 100)
Reinstall right wheel assembly
Check tire and pressure
Reinstall right main fairing
Inspect right main Wheel Fairing
Remove left main wheel fairing
Remove left wheel assembly
Replace left brake pads (Cleveland 66-106)
Flip or replace tire to maximize wear and reinstall tire - align the red dot on the sidewall with the yellow dot
on the tube or the stem if there is no yellow dot.
Inspect the brake disk
Clean all parts of left main wheel assembly
Lube Bearings (Mobile Aviation Grease SHC 100)
Reinstall left wheel assembly
Check tire and pressure
Reinstall left main fairing
Tail:
Inspect horizontal stabilizer
Inspect elevators - Tri-Flow lube bearings
Inspect trim tab - Tri-Flow lube hinge
Inspect vertical stabilizer
Inspect rudder - Tri-Flow lube bearings
Inspect tail light & strobe
Inspect rudder cables
Inspect Nav. Antenna
Special Items:
Test Nav radios with available Nav aids. (DAK VOR)
 
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Hey there "Classmate"!

Nice to see you working on and maintaining your ride Tony! After you and I attended the class on RV Building in Frederick, MD., I'm finally ready to order my empennage. I'll be getting it next month (March) and getting my project started!

Nice to see you in the news, so to speak. Hope all goes well with your maintenance project!

Take Care,
Patrick :D
 
Hey DrillBit!! I figured you'd either be done the Emp by now or in the emergency room!! :D Good to see you on the forum. I'll be checking in on your build site from time to time. I like doing this maintenance stuff and I definately learn alot as I go. I still aspire to build but I am not yet ready to commit to the amount of time it will take. Preserving my marriage is the priority so building might make that difficult. :)
 
And there it is! I always wondered what my nickname would be and by jove, I think you've got it! I'll have to put that on my canopy when finished! Yes, the thrill of tinkering and keeping our chariots in shape and maintained is always a blast! Enjoy brother! Talk soon.

DrillBit :D
 
So tomorrow is the big inspection day. My A&P suggested I have everything opened up for him and ready for inspection. He also relieved my fears when he said he would sign it off pending a satifactory inspection but I could assemble everything at my leisure.

I spent the day dismantling the entire interior. Cleaning, inspecting, and repacking grease in the nose wheel bearings. Removing all inspection plates and various fairings/wheel pants. Cousin Vlad stopped in to lend a hand and gave some pointers on a few items.

Removing the entire interior might not look like a big job but it is a lot of work when you get into it.
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When you are done it should look like this.
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I even had to drill out the pop rivets in the baggage floor area to access a faulty strobe light power supply. (Note to self: do not install a component you may need to get to in an area with ZERO access!!)
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I have never seen this part of my plane before. I am learning alot as I go. In this picture I learned that my altitude hold is vented to the cabin (and not plumbed into the static system) which explains why there is a change of pitch when I open or close the vent while using the altitude hold.
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Nose wheel bearings serviced. I learned that I have a unique spacer system that sandwiches the bearings. It is one large machined spacer with thread on the opposite side to accept the other half of the spacer which is held in perfect tension with a small screw into a keyway. Cousin never saw this before. We had A&Ps a few hangars down help us with the service but it was pretty simple.
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This side of the spacer is restricted from movement by the smaller AN bolt.
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Cowl, plenum, and spinner removed.
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All inspection panels and wing root fairings removed.
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Here are all the parts I took off the exterior. I wonder what she weighs now??
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Ready for inspection!!
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Condition Inspection

Take photos of every thing you inspect and that will help you remember next year, each issue.

The engine: if not familiar with your new engine, get an A&P to work with you and show you all the details. It is fairly simple. You just want to make all the checks needed.

Airframe: Looks like you are already to do the airframe.

Safety: Re-check under the cowling, after test start and run up, after CI, oil changes or FF work. Also re-check oil system and fuel system prior to replacing inspection covers. It is amazing how people can forget things. Do your checkoff, on paper, for each item inspected.

Your CI will make you happier with your plane. Bonding with your new plane.
 
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My mobile A&P arrived as promised!
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We got right to work on compression tests.
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I've never done this before and underestimated the power of 80 psi even though I had ample warning from the A&P. If you miss the sweet spot be prepared!!
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Some other RV guy showed up for a free education. (but mainly for a free lunch)
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You would think he would do a bit of work but he doesn't like to get dirty. He mostly just took pictures.
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My "Hungry for free lunch" cousin took a great deal of pleasure every time the A&P found a minor discrepancy. Here he took a close up picture of a linkage that should have a washer installed.
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Here we are sorting out the official paperwork.
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Overall it was a good learning experience with only minor flaws that need to be corrected. I will assemble everything over the next few days. This forum and the people that use it are invaluable and I am thankful to be a part of it.
 
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Cousin Vlad

Hey Tony

would you talk your cousin Vlad into putting some paint on his naked 9A.
If he is not careful, he is going to busted for " I.I.E." International Indecent Exposure of bare aluminum. Ha Ha Ha! There has been sightings in several different states and countries. Although I would agree, it is much more fun to fly than paint. I don't condone this behavior...... If my 8 was a flying machine I'm sure I would feel different....LOL

Tell Vlad I said HI. Thanks for sharing your experience it truly helps us all.

Rich
 
Rich,
Thanks for the kind words! I agree 100%. I tell him almost DAILY to get some paint. It was cute for awhile but now I am getting embarrassed when I park next to him. :D Everytime I mention it he goes straight to the beer fridge instead of coping with the pain!!
 
Hey

Tony - congratulations on your successful first inspection... did you find my swiss army knife when you pulled the interior??? ;)

When are you gonna start building?

T.
 
flap motor and rod end?

I was just noticing in the picture of the interior opened up for inspection that the flap motor panel covers were still on. Did you have an opportunity to bond with that part of the airplane? It can cause grief if the safety wire that prevents unscrewing of the rod end is not installed or has come loose.

Looks like a great experience and an opportunity to have lots of eyes on the plane. Congratulations!

All Best

Jeremy Constant
 
............... Here he took a close up picture of a linkage that should have a washer installed............

It looks like it has something to do with the fuel injection, but was is the linkage and controls for?

Regards, Tonny.
 
JJ,
I did end up taking the flap motor panel covers off but had taken the picture first. Good catch. Yes, I am bonding with the plane more and more. Spent a few more hours putting things back on and I am nowhere near close to having it ready to fly.

Tonny,
It is the purge valve linkage that allows me to recirculate cool fuel into the hot lines to aid in starting a hot fuel injected engine. It seems to work very well. I have actually been thinking wether or not that washer is actually required though...that control is only used for starting and is not a "flight control". I will add the washer as recommended but I am thinking it isn't really necessary when you reflect on what the control is used for.
 
Can it stop the engine?

Tony

I guess the answer to the post about the washer is, can it stop the engine if it breaks? Also I noticed the control arm looks like aluminium which would be far more prone to fatigue and possible cracking so maybe a steel replacement.
Or alternatively have a spring that holds it in the correct position if the linkage breaks.

Peter
 
Peter, there IS a spring that holds the valve closed should anything break. The more I think about it, the more I realize the entire linkage is a non issue.
 
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