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Finishing overhead console.....

Phil

Phil

Well Known Member
Fitting and Finishing overhead console.....

I'm fitting the Aerosport overhead console and for some reason I always thought the console covered the four screws holding the vertical post. I guess that was the old Accuracy Avionics console instead.

Has anyone developed a creative way to hide the screw ends but still access the area to tighten/loosen them if needed?

Phil
 
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Try The Fastener Aisle at ACO

I've used one -piece snap covers in black plastic. The bottom part acts as a washer, and the hinged top snaps over to cover the screw head. Loads a little dressier than a screw head.
Terry
 
Two other questions.....

1) Has anyone else needed to remove the entire rear flange to get the fit to match the cabin top contour? It looks like I'll have to whack it to get it to fig the ridges. Other than that, it looks pretty close.

2) What's the trick for clearing the lower door strut brace? Notch the console? It looks like I'd have to cut past the flange and into the vertical part (side) of the console.
 
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Phil said:
1) Has anyone else needed to remove the entire rear flange to get the fit to match the cabin top contour? It looks like I'll have to whack it to get it to fig the ridges. Other than that, it looks pretty close.
Click to expand...

No, mine fits perfectly. :D I have talked with others that have had similiar issues and I've heard the same from Geoff. It appears that Van's supplier may have more than one mold for the cabin covers or made a recent change. It appears that the step at the rear door frame is about 1/4" aft on some of the recent cabin covers. The result is that it appears that the overhead is too long. Geoff has a procedure that resolves that issue for those reading and haven't figured it out on their own.


Phil said:
2) What's the trick for clearing the lower door strut brace? Notch the console? It looks like I'd have to cut past the flange and into the vertical part (side) of the console.
Click to expand...

That would be the solution. Then just use filler to make it look nice. That was the part that my wife had the hardest time finishing. Yes, my wife did about 95% of the filller and sanding on the overhead. Of course after that experience, she hasn't wanted to do much since. I wonder why? :eek:

terrykohler said:
I've used one -piece snap covers in black plastic. The bottom part acts as a washer, and the hinged top snaps over to cover the screw head. Loads a little dressier than a screw head.
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought about screw covers for those screws. Good idea!

bob
 
I did not finish the bolts, although the covers sound like a nice way to go. I can't loosen the bolts at this point because I glassed over the heads already. Here is how I notched the strut support. I had to shim it out to clear the Mcmaster Carr door seal.

IMG_1460.jpg


My rear flange fit a little long so I moved the entire console forward and trimmed. I think it was off maybe 1/4". I also trimmed the outside of the flange so I did not have to trim the baggage bulkhead corrugated cover.
 
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I can see three options...

1) I can whack the flange off and remove a 1/4" - 1/2" section off the rear of the console, then glass the flange back on (if I want to keep the flange). The seam would be hidden by the baggage bulkhead upholstery. It would be pretty easy to hide the seam from eagle eyed folks.

2) I could whack the flange off the aft section until it fits and then use my own baggage bulkhead to glass my own flange to mate the console to the bulkhead.

3) I cold whack the entire flange off and jut put a McMaster seal on the transition. That's easy, but it seems prone to drafts and leaking.

Could I be missing a 4th or 5th option?
 
Phil,
Is the rear door step preventing you from moving it forward? Mine did. I ended up grinding out a small section and then building it back up with 9 oz cloth in order to get it more forward.
Bill
 
I would not grind the end flange off. Call Geoff and ask him how best to proceed. I had the same thing, and while it was not simple, it was not a difficult mod and kept the console intact. I ground the cabin cover flange back to where it would allow the rear flange to sit even with the bulkhead, then I reinforced it with several layers of cloth. It is not noticable in the end, and the strength of the cabin cover was not compromised. I cant' find any photos,sorry
 
Make it fit

Phil,

I've done a couple of these and neither fit the cabin top. I usually cut them in half and remove all areas that interfere with the cabin top....this is AFTER I've got the cabin top ready to accept the console. In the past it appeared that I was 'the only one' that had any misfit with the console. I can see now that others have some of the same issues. In a nutshell....just do whatever you have to do in order to make the console fit your cabin top.

The above said. Jeff at Aerosport has done a wonderful job with the console and it can't be easy to make them all fit due to discrepancies with the cabin top. The console is a great addition to the RV10 cabin, and they have also done well in keeping it as light as possible. Well worth the investment and work to install in your aircraft. It takes me the better part of an 8 hour day to make the console fit and get it ready for primer. I don't think that's too bad.

Oh yea...I make little padded 'pillows' to cover the forward screws. The Judges at OshKosh really like those :).

Good Luck and have fun :).

Phil said:
I'm fitting the Aerosport overhead console and for some reason I always thought the console covered the four screws holding the vertical post. I guess that was the old Accuracy Avionics console instead.

Has anyone developed a creative way to hide the screw ends but still access the area to tighten/loosen them if needed?

Phil
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, it's a great piece of gear and when you're working with composite structures (two of them in this case) it's far from being an exact science. That's just part of it.. We aren't dealing with CNC'd parts here, so I' not bent out of shape over it at all.

My cabin top is about 1" off from Bob Leffler's top.

9a3da859.jpg


I have thought about notching the console, but I really don't like that idea. I like the idea of removing the rear flange, trimming a section out of the aft segment of the console, then reattaching the flange.

The front needs to move back about 1/2" too. So it's space I can use on fitting both the front and back ends.

34a45cdb.jpg
 
Phil said:
I can see three options...

Could I be missing a 4th or 5th option?
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you do have these from Sean?


1284054495693-931780493.jpeg


They give you room for the McMaster Carr seals around the door. It's next to impossible to get the McMaster seals around the Van's supplied bracket.

bob
 
Phil said:
Yeah, it's a great piece of gear and when you're working with composite structures (two of them in this case) it's far from being an exact science. That's just part of it.. We aren't dealing with CNC'd parts here, so I' not bent out of shape over it at all.

My cabin top is about 1" off from Bob Leffler's top.

9a3da859.jpg


I have thought about notching the console, but I really don't like that idea. I like the idea of removing the rear flange, trimming a section out of the aft segment of the console, then reattaching the flange.

The front needs to move back about 1/2" too. So it's space I can use on fitting both the front and back ends.
Click to expand...

The best thing is the cut out that transition flange and slide the overhead forward like Bill mentioned so the back is aligned properly. Then just filler to make it nice looking again.


Phil said:
34a45cdb.jpg
Click to expand...

This you want to cut off totally at the firs 90 degree bend. You don't need the part of the flange that bends upward or forward. I think Geoff is even trimming this off new product these days. Then just a little filler on the gaps. That's what I did.

btw, you have a ton of sanding and filler work on that forward ledge of the cabin cover to get looking nice and smooth. Although yours looks a little better than mine did. I had some large crates and cracks to fill.

bob
 
strut brackets

Phil,

Mine fit surprising well. I covered my screws with the top of the leather post cover. I also mounted my headset mount there. I made a spacer so the Bose A20's would slide in easy. Works great, especially when your headset cords go into the arm rest like mine.



The strut attach brackets are anodized aluminum now. The original nylon version is plenty strong. These are just easier to machine


wi35nl.jpg
 
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Attached are some pictures that will help with the overhead installation.
One thing to remember is that it is laid up in a female mold and the A surface or the outside of the canopy should always be very close. That being said the inside is were you have all the variation in the tops. Many things can change when laying up a complex piece like this with all the nomex and fillers they put in these tops. The 2 big areas that will cause problems will be at the mid step in the canopy and at the front step. On the front step just cut it off as in the photo attached. It is not needed and they should all be shipping without this on them. The next area is the mid step at the rear of the door (see picture). This step varies from day to day it seems like. The green tops the step was forward of the pink tops. The pink top steps seem to be moving aft a little bit. The second picture shows a easy fix for the fit. One thing to do is sand the carbon at this joint to about .02 -.03 thickness and this will help the fit. Hope this makes sense. If anyone is having issues please call me before cutting to much.
Hope this helps

Geoff
Aerosport Products
http://aerosportproducts.com
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Here are some photos that show the back of the overhead and the baggage
bulk head cover interface. I cut my bulkhead cover to slide under the overhead console lip about 3/16" it fits pretty tight and I get no leaks.
My overhead is a older style so it looks a little different. The lip on the overhead can be trimmed down to almost 1/4" if you would like.
FWIW

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Geoff
 
Yeah Bob, I have noticed some pretty major variations on the interior side of the forward step. That's going to require some serious work to get it looking nice and uniform. Cleaning it up will be be the next step after I take the interior out. Right now I'm just fitting things (roughly - in the case of the overhead), to build templates for upholstery, paint, etc.

I will be sending all the upholstery work off, while I work on final finishing and painting the interior sides of the cabin top and doors. Hopefully all the covered parts arrive about the time I wrap up the interior sanding and painting.

Geoff - No problem. I understand the variations between the cabin tops. Like I said earlier, it's not an exact science. No two cabin tops are the same and things like that should be expected.

I like the texture on your paint. What's the trick?
 
Strasnuts said:
Phil,

Mine fit surprising well. I covered my screws with the top of the leather post cover. I also mounted my headset mount there. I made a spacer so the Bose A20's would slide in easy. Works great, especially when your headset cords go into the arm rest like mine.
Click to expand...

So where is the photo? Copycats want to see!

bob
 
Phil said:
Yeah Bob, I have noticed some pretty major variations on the interior side of the forward step. That's going to require some serious work to get it looking nice and uniform. Cleaning it up will be be the next step after I take the interior out. Right now I'm just fitting things (roughly - in the case of the overhead), to build templates for upholstery, paint, etc.
Click to expand...

Templates for paint??? Just give your son a rattle can. He'll have your interior painted in no time.:eek:
 
LOL - He's always looking for ways to help. I got him some tools of his own for the shop. Now he plays with his tools while I play with mine. One of the good things about him is that he makes airplane noises when he's sitting inside. That's nice because my lips get tired for brrrrrp'ing after a short cross country of 45 minutes. He's still going strong.

I was looking at the console closer this afternoon. I don't think I have any other option than to knock off the flange. Even if I notch the console for the rear step, the front step is still at least 1/2" too far forward. The entire console needs to come back ~1/2" and everything will fit perfectly.

In other words, the distance between my front step and my rear step match perfectly. But the distance between the rear step and the bulkhead is too long. If I notch the console, I'll still have a 1/2" gap to fill on the front.

My cabin top must be the odd ball of the bunch...

Phil
 
Trimmed

Mine was long at the aft end. I trimmed off the flange to just fit against the aft bulkhead with a rubber seal around it. The bulkhead slides up under the rubber seal easy peasy. Looks pretty tight, but not flying yet. I didn't put in an headliner, just filled and sanded and painted both the cabin top and the transitions with the OH console. I think it looks very good. Figure I can always add a headliner later if I want. Call me if you want any more info.

BTW, I used the stock Van's door strut mounts (Didn't know Sean had his out yet) and the Mcmaster carr seals. I just trimmed the grip portion off that part of the seal that goes around the door strut mounts. Works pretty good, but again, not flying yet. Soon!
 
Bryan,

I was hoping you'd chime in. I was scouring your photos last week and noticed that you were missing a flange. I wasn't going to bother you with a phone call around Christmas.

It sounds like your top and my top are pretty similar. All I really need is a shorter back and the thing should pop right into position.

Your seats look pretty cool.

Don't rush it. We'll see you flying as soon as the ice breaks up there. :)
 
For the benefit of those following along behind me....

I took everything down and managed to notch it and make it work after all.

The fit is pretty nice and it's cleco'd into position. It'll get stuck on permanently when I finish the inside for paint.

Phil
 
Depends

Some are using the flange just fit tight up against the aft bulkhead, if their particular fit allows the flange to remain. Mine didn't, so I trimmed off the entire flange (total cut off about 1/4" if I recall) to still have a snug fit, but allow room for a rubber edge gasket. Same one as used on the gap covers under the HS, if I recall. Looks good, still allows me to slide the aft bulkhead cover up under it, and looks like a good seal. Haven't flown yet though, so your results may vary.
 
Bob,
Did you keep the flange on? How far away from the bulkhead is the aft end of the overhead? What diameter size seal did you use?

Dave
 
rvdave said:
Bob,
Did you keep the flange on? How far away from the bulkhead is the aft end of the overhead? What diameter size seal did you use?

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,

I'm not sure how long you've been following, but just to bring you up to speed, my overhead is a unique case. Geoff used it to make the mold for the overhead, so mine is a perfect fit.

Since that time, we've learned that there is at least two pink cabin cover molds or the mold has been modified. If you get the mold that was used to make mine, the fit should be pretty good. If you get the other mold, you have a few minor mods to make. The same goes for the green top as well.

To answer your question, I have about 1/16" gap between the flange and bulkhead. I just used a standard 1/8" flat door weatherseal between the flange and bulkhead.

There are quite a few photos on my build site.

bob
 
At the time I did mine, i had no idea how to finish the junction to the baggage bulkhead. I ended up cutting my flange off entirely, leaving about a 1 or 2 inch gap - can't recall exactly.

I am glad I did, as it has allowed me better access into the overhead. While talking with Bob Archer, he mentioned i should glass a foil ELT antenna into the overhead area, which i was able to nicely. That is one less ugly antenna visible externally.
 
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