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Seat Rail Mounts - Invert the bolts?

Phil

Phil

Well Known Member
No matter how hard I try, my wrist don't articulate 165 degrees to install nuts on the underside of the rail mounts (that sit on top of the gear mounts).

I know I'm going against the norm when I suggest inverting the bolts and putting the nuts on top.

Before I do that, has anyone had success getting these nuts installed? If so - how?

Phil
d7e03bbf.jpg
 
Two person job.

My wife held the nuts in place, using a bit of tape, and a box end wrench.

I tightened the bolt using a ratchet and long enough extension to give her some working room.

These are really a pain, I imagine it could be done solo, but is actually pretty easy with a copilot.;)
 
Phil;608724Before I do that said:
Hmm, I just did that a few weeks ago, but I can't remember doing anything special. Well, I now understand why after looking at mykitlog site. It wasn't a few weeks ago, it was last June. I put them in with nuts up too.

bob
Click to expand...
 
Okay boys and girls following at home.....

Open your manual to 28-16 Step #2. Make a note to ignore the plans and simply bolt the **** things in while you can.

This is the stupidest step in the plans. I can't believe they'd tell you to unbolt those freaking things. Bolt them in and leave them in.......

I'm going to go pull my 3/8" wrench out of the wall. (well not really - but I'm pretty freaking close to it!)
 
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It was definitely a step missed in the plans. It took me several hours of fooling around before I finally got them all in. My hands are not very agile and I was cussing quite a bit. Mine are nuts down.
 
I used a curved hemostat to get them started. Once started it was pretty easy to get a box end wrench on them and finish up. I did it solo. If you do it before the gear legs are reamed, they'll be in the way. But I can't find any reason to delay once the gear legs are drilled.
 
I could still drill the gear leg. Check the guide I posted on how to do it. If you follow that plan, you shouldn't have any problem.

Phil
 
You could even ream the gear legs on the bench. There is no reason that they have to be on the airplane.
 
Swop out the rails

Hi Phil, While you are at it - swop the LH outboard seat rail with the RH inboard rail and also the RH outboard rail with the LH inboard rail.

Then mount the T-handles as well as the recline levers on your seats to inboard.

By doing this you will have the T-handles inboard (close tothe tunnel cover) and it really works well. Lots of space instead of having to buy expensive longer T-handles when you have them in that narrow space between the seat and the fuse sides. :)
 
Great advice!

Jan knows whereof he speaks! It's hard to get my man-sized fingers between the seat and side panel to reach the recliner lever....great idea.

Thanks,
 
My hands are about like Pierre's too.

I was thinking about swapping those around too. I have a center console mounted on the tunnel. Does that erode the extra space and therefore make the swapping of rails worthless?

Phil
 
In case it's not clear. This is the most god aweful step of the entire project. I've never seen anything with such a #$@ poor design. How could you not know this is a stupid way of attaching seat rails?

There there elves working in Oregon?
 
Try RV-8 gear bolts!

You guys whining about those nuts on the RV-10 gear weldments....anytime you want, come on over and install RV-8 landing gear nuts inside the gear towers. I probably left a tablespoon of blood in the bottom of each gear tower.

Carry on.
 
My wife's not sure.

I mentioned the idea to Jenny, that Jan had, to swap the rails and have the backrest tilting levers inboard instead.

She mentioned that it would be harder for her to reach when she's trying to get in the rear seat...Hmmmmm?

Best,
 
pierre smith said:
I mentioned the idea to Jenny, that Jan had, to swap the rails and have the backrest tilting levers inboard instead.

She mentioned that it would be harder for her to reach when she's trying to get in the rear seat...Hmmmmm?

Best,
Click to expand...

I switched mine, so I could reach the passenger side easier when I am loading folks into the plane.

I have found out the hard way-----destroyed rudder bottom fairing-----that I need to get in first, load the rear seats next, and then load the front passenger seat. Thus, having the lever on the inner side works well for me.

You can order additional tilt levers from Oregon Aero, and put one on each side, that is on my list........
 
I'd trade these bolts for any other, because my level of anger is already at 11 on a scale of 10. It can't get any worse without me causing some serious harm to people and/or property. I've already dripped my fair share of blood into the bottom of the airplane as a result of trying to force my man-sized hands into places they don't belong.

That being said, I made a trip to Sears and that resulted in a $250 addition of new tools to the arsenal. One of the tools I bought was a set of stubby wrenches with a ratcheting box-end and open end on the other. I couldn't get the ratchet onto the nut, but it at least gave me some new options. It allowed me to get the current bolt I was working on tightened. Then I had to come in for lunch.

I'll go out and try it rest later today.
 
Done.... Let this good thread die...

Stubby wrenches were the difference for me. Still not easy, but manageable.

</RANT>
 
Larg part in small home

Well the -10 can be fun but nothing i have seen is that hard even the seat rails.

One should go work on a USAF F-4 fantom. All parts are 4 times larger then the holes there accessed in. And you have more special tools to work on the F-4 then any other plane i have worked on.

And i have been an A&P mechanic since the early 1980's. Hang in there and just use your brains, and you will figure out how to get access to the bolts, nuts ect ect. Everything is doable some times just a bit harder then the other steps.
 
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