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RV-10 Cowl Hinge Plans error

F

fehdxl

Well Known Member
There are several inconsistencies with section 41 and the cowl hinges... but the question I have for the group is which hinge section should have the corner notched?

According to this first image, it should be F-1001Q, but according to the second image, it's F-1001P. P or Q?

In other words... the bottom hinge, the side hinge, or maybe both?

Thanks in advance!

-Jim
40603

20110816190028750.jpg


2011081619001234.jpg
 
Even more interesting is the fabrication drawing shows the angled end on the aft piece while the installation drawing on the next page shows it on the forward piece. Well, maybe not more interesting but the plot thickens. My advice? Dump the hinges and put in Milspec Camlocs... ;)
 
Hi Jim

Save yourself a lot of future grief and eliminate the lower two hinges. Mine broke ears off by the time my -10 was 2 years old.

Go with three camloks per side and be done with it. Matter of fact, camloks around the top rear cowl are my preferred way to go, as we did with the -6 we built a while back. Just keep the straight sides and vertical hinges.

Best,
 
Notches

I believe it is the Q's to be notched. Like Pierre, I didn't use mine either. I followed what others did and made a thick solid piece of aluminum bent to contour the bottom firewall and used 6 or 7 -4 rivets to hold it on. Five nutplates placed diagonal for screws on the cowl side. Scott's is done this way too. I don't see the reason to notch the P's
 
Strasnuts said:
I believe it is the Q's to be notched. Like Pierre, I didn't use mine either. I followed what others did and made a thick solid piece of aluminum bent to contour the bottom firewall and used 6 or 7 -4 rivets to hold it on. Five nutplates placed diagonal for screws on the cowl side. Scott's is done this way too. I don't see the reason to notch the P's
Click to expand...

Mine's the same as Sean's...... No hinge on the bottom.
 
The bottom of p (side) has to have angle cut to clear a 3/32" rivet shop head.

You'll need to leave 1 13/16" clearance between inboard ends of top hinge. Otherwise you will find the 1 3/4" cowl pin retainer will not fit. Then like i had to do... Get out the dremel/cutoff wheel, file, sandpaper AGAIN.
 
F-1001Q L+R replacement

What thickness alum sheet did you use in place of the hinges?
Did you guys use the same length as F-1001Q or did you use a longer piece of sheet bent to fit the bottom corner of the firewall? (There are about 5 open rivet holes around the bottom corner that I can use).
Any pictures?
Thanks.
Johan
 
.063 sticking out same width as the firewall flange. Long enough for 4 #8 nutplates with rounded corners. Place them in the flat spot just outboard of where the exit scoop curve ends. Don't try to follow the curve. Countersink the cowl for #8 tinnerman washers.
 
I use 0.063" aluminum the same length as the hinge it replaces. You still need to use the spacer that goes under the hinge. Camlocs are nice, but screws are just as good, since you will need to get down on the floor with a drill or screwdriver anyway to take off the 6 screws on the middle of the bottom cowl.

I personally prefer hinges on the top cowl and the sides of the bottom cowl. Not only to they look cleaner, but they hold tighter. The camlocs also tend to hang up in the holes when removing and reinstalling the cowl. In some ways he camlocs are rally nice, but they do not make removal easier nor do they look better. They may make original fabrication easier, not sure.
 
I did the same as others suggest; replaced the hinge from the get go with the .063 aluminum plate that has the same overall dimension as the hinge and used nutplates. Any idea why the plans call for a screw and locknut on the inboard end of those hinges? I am using a screw and nutplate at that site instead of the plans indication of a screw and locknut. See any need, at that site, for the screw and locknut per plans vs using nutplate and screw as at the other more outboard holes in that plate?
 
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