New Oil Filter Rotax

Just read about this on Rotax blog. Looks like an improvement, but didn't know there was anything wrong witrh the old one. Wonder what the cost of new (higher undoubtedly) filter will be as it is made in Austria? Anyone hear yet?
Dick Seiders

Rotax new oil FIlters

They had these new filters at OSH and they were the same price as the old ones.

Dick, Phil Lockwood mentioned the new filter during his forum. If memory serves, we won't be able to put any oil into the filter prior to installation, not that it would all stay in anyway. I paid 15 bucks for one from Wag-Aero. Don't know how much the old ones were. I think they used a different rate spring in the new one also.

I have heard (you know what that's worth) that Rotax had to find a new supplier so this was the result. I, too,have heard that you can't fill it before installation. I don't think this is a big deal since the Rotax Line Maintenance Manual, in 12-20-00 section 11.4, does not say to do this. It does say to turn the prop by hand for 20 revolutions which completely refills the entire oil circuit (12-20-00 section 11.2). I also motor the starter for a few seconds which immediately shows mid range oil pressure. Motoring is probably a waste of time and is not shown in the Rotax manual but, that's just me.

sandpiper said:

I, too,have heard that you can't fill it before installation.

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Pre-filling an oil filter sometimes helps. Even though all of the oil cannot remain in the filter, almost half of the capacity will be absorbed by the filter element. May not help much, but it certainly couldn't hurt.

Filter Choice

Too bad that Rotax didn't choose a more common filter. The thing looks almost like the one that I use on our gold wing. Lots of Wing riders are using these and are very satisfied. I get a quality filter from walmart for less than half the price, and they are always available.

Lets see.... motorcycle oil, motorcycle filter. Works for me!

Tom

There are Fram filters you can use, but I have been told that the bypass spring pressure in the filters designated by Rotax are at a higher pop off setting than standard filters. Not sure if this is true or not, but I have decided it is not worth the few bucks I save using compatable filters. I choose genuine Rotax filters.

I won't name any names, but I personally know of one Rotax 912 that has over 1500 hrs on automotive filters.
If I remember correctly, it's the same filter as a '93 Toyota V6 pickup.

THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION!

Relief valve pressure setting

The pressure relief valve on the Rotax oil filter was discussed at an OSH forum. The reason for a higher relief valve setting (18psi ) is that it will not open when the oil is cold. Thus the oil is filtered even after starting a cold engine. If an oil filter is installed that has a lower pressure relief valve setting, it could open when the oil is thick and cold and allow dirty oil to circulate until the engine warms up.
It seems to me that if the engine is preheated, then a filter with a higher relief valve setting is not necessary. It is a good idea to preheat the engine anyway, because most engine wear occurs right after start-up when the engine is cold.
Disclaimer: Like Mel, I am not recommending to use a cheaper oil filter.
Joe Gores

Speaking of pre-heating, does anyone use the heat pads adhered to the Rotax oil tank? What are the pro's using for pre-heat?

Hey Dave - -

I installed the REIFF Pre-heat, and am totally satisfied with it. I also put a packing blanket over the nose in the winter, and it keeps the engine right at 90 degreees plugged in all the time. 150 watts.

John Bender

More about new oil filter...

When I bought my first Rotax oil filter, I also ordered a Rotax oil filter wrench that fits the base of the filter. I did an oil change today and guess what....? The oil filter wrench does not fit the new oil filter. The base on the new filter is completely different....grrr.

The new filter is still black in color, with the Rotax name on it but it has a different part number than the old one. I also did find to be true what the others have said about the filter not accepting oil when you try to partially fill it before installing. However, I think that by turning the prop by hand 20 revolutions that would fill the filter. It would also get fresh oil to all the bearings and pump up the lifters before start up. I see about 10 psi oil pressure when I prop the engine to burp the tank.

Rather than buy another Rotax oil filter wrench to remove the filters, I am going brutal with this type wrench which I bought a few years ago for a car I had that had a filter placed on top of the engine in a place where no other tool would work. This simple tool gets any filter off in 30 seconds:

The picture shows an inexpensive filter and not a spendy Rotax filter .
Of course, one would not use this type of wrench to tighten a filter on. That is accomplished by hand using 3/4 turn from when the gasket touches the base.

Also, a caution. Be sure that the filter you take off does not leave its rubber gasket behind on the engine flange. That happens occassionally on cars and has happened on my Rotax today. If you don't see this has happened and remove the old gasket you could install the oil filter with two gaskets and the gasket is sure to blow probably at some inopportune time. I have heard of this happening on cars, and it can happen here as well.

Tony

This works on some filters also - -

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945533000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

If you have access, this works fairly well. Surface of filter must be dry.

John Bender

JBPILOT said:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945533000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

If you have access, this works fairly well. Surface of filter must be dry.

John Bender

Click to expand...

That's what I use too. Simple and works good. Don't even have to remove lower cowl.

Oil change opportunities...

Drifting off topic a bit here, but after each 50 hours of flying I begin wondering what is going on under the hood. So at the oil change I remove the top & bottom cowl and look at everything: Engine mount bolts, check for fluid leaks, chaffing, muffler springs, etc. I bought the quick drain for the oil tank but have not installed it, don't want to be tempted to leave the cowl on when I change the oil .

Just trying to stay ahead of the airplane .

Tony

Mobil 1 and and Fram Gold Filters

I used Rotax filters for the first 200 hours. I then started using Fram Gold filters. I can do an oil change for $25. including an oil analysis. I am totally happy with the oil and filters...and have 600 hours on my Rotax at the next change.

My local Wamart sells Mobil 1 in five quart containers for less than $27. and I buy my Fram Gold filters by the case on promotion for less than $3. each when they are on sale (at least twice a year) at NAPA. The BOSCH plugs are available at NAPA and I don't clean them at 100 hours...I change them. The K&N filter cleaner and oil is about $15. and will last a lifetime.

The 912 is a great product and it is very inexpensive to maintain compared to a Continental or Lycoming. Let's see: Unleaded 92 Mogas (no ethanol) is $3.75 a gallon; oil and filters' plugs and coolant...I spend $21./hr to fly. That's cheaper than taking my wife to a movie!

Jay Sluiter
Ni24CS
Albany, OR (S12)

Non Rotax Oil Filter, caution!

I would be careful when using a non Rotax oil filter. The recommended Rotax filter has a bypass valve in it that is set at a specific pressure. When using a generic filter you dont know what the bypass valve is set at and you could occasionally be using unfiltered oil.

Here is couple of quotes from Rotax-owner.com web site:

The new oil filter is slightly longer by 3.5mm or .138 in., but this is not where the changes stop by any means. Some changes were sweeping. For instance, some are specifically designed with the mounting of the oil tank in mind. This is important because we have a dry sump system and not a wet sump system . The white silicone drain-back preventer (valve) is improved with little or no oil being allowed to drain out of the filter while the engine just sits. This was designed for engine setups where the oil tank is mounted a bit too low, which prevents the oil from draining back into the tank and out of the filter and engine.

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Another change was the addition of a ?one way check valve?. This feature is for those oil tanks that are mounted too high above the recommended oil tank location. It keeps oil from draining out of the tank back down into the engine.

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The next change is a new bypass pressure spring. The old filter used a piece of spring steel. This new oil filter has a smooth round edge spring so it doesn?t have any sharp edges to wear through the filter housing. The old bypass pressure was 1.1 bar or 16 psi. This new filter is 1.2 bar or 18 psi. This will stop some filters from opening for a second or two at start up. The old oil filter could be pre-filled with oil which made it easy, but with this filter you can?t pre-fill with oil and you must turn the prop to put oil into the filter before your first start after an oil change.

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Here is the web link with Pictures you can see and read for yourself.
http://www.rotax-owner.com/rotax-blog/item/6-what%E2%80%99s-in-an-oil-filter?