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Beside Fluid and Paint

DonFromTX

DonFromTX

Well Known Member
OK so Vans says all you need is fluid and paint, but obviously we need tools and other expendables. I am just getting started, but I detest these holdups for stuff I did not anticipate (been waiting a week for a Molex crimper). Can anyone give me a hint of what I should be looking to acquire NOW to preclude holdups down the line? (I am starting on the fuselage now)
 
Vans says all you need is fluid and paint
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That is true for the most part, but there are exceptions for every rule. They do not supply the rubber control stick grips or end plugs that you can buy at a bicycle shop. I would also buy a couple of switches to replace those cheap Radio Shack switches that Van's gives you for Push To Talk. Fiberglass cloth and resin and peel-ply and latex gloves and a gram scale (accurate to 0.1 grams) and tongue depressors and mixing cups, all will be needed for the canopy fairing, which I found to be the most challenging part of the airplane. Various sizes of syringes available at farm supply stores for testing the pitot static system and for applying gas tank sealant. Of course you will never have enough tools. There will always be one more that you need (or want). There will always be supplies or tools or parts that you need and will have to wait for. Accept that fact and try to have some other job to work on. And have fun.
Joe
 
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Thanks JOE, most helpful information - and I AM having fun! :)
I was wondering which package the stick grips were in!
 
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Mich48041 said:
That is true for the most part, but there are exceptions for every rule. They do not supply the rubber control stick grips or end plugs that you can buy at a bicycle shop. I would also buy a couple of switches to replace those cheap Radio Shack switches that Van's gives you for Push To Talk. Fiberglass cloth and resin and peel-ply and latex gloves and a gram scale (accurate to 0.1 grams) and tongue depressors and mixing cups, all will be needed for the canopy fairing, which I found to be the most challenging part of the airplane. Various sizes of syringes available at farm supply stores for testing the pitot static system and for applying gas tank sealant. Of course you will never have enough tools. There will always be one more that you need (or want). There will always be supplies or tools or parts that you need and will have to wait for. Accept that fact and try to have some other job to work on. And have fun.
Joe
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What switches do you recommend vice the stock ones?
 
Don, for those of us who are even further back, have you listed on your build log the things that initially stalled you? (If so, I've missed them). What would you add to this list for those working on a build up to your point?

And since you mentioned the Molex crimper, it reminds me that this useful thread really ought to be in two parts: tools not included in the 'standard RV-12 tool kit' offered by the tool vendors as well as the 'missing' build materials.

Good thread idea; thanks for adding it.

Jack
 
Yeah that would be a good thread. If you are impatient like myself, those delays seem to be major obstacles. Fortunately another forum builder who has finished his, mentored me and kept me going, plus I bought my tool kit from another builder who had got about as far as I am when he quit and sold me his tools, so many are already in my kit or I already had them. Reading my kit log below will help you some. A bandsaw that would do the trick was another holdup, I tried to use an inferior one. You GOTTA have a bandsaw. I feel that a pneumatic rivet squeezer and an air drill are must have tools too.
You will ruin a few nutplates and stuff like that (and get some with faulty or no threads), drill out a few rivets etc, and at some time you will run out, Vans don't give you many "extra" parts. I just sent off a couple hundred dollar order to Aircraft Spruce today, fiberglass stuff I will need among spare nutplates and such. Some stuff you can get direct from Vans, I had to order some rivets from there that nobody else sells..
The front page of the plans 03-02 is a fine list, missing only a few items, but a great guide too. I can email you a copy if you are not at that point yet.
 
I have been flying for over a year, so I am not sure what the current plans call for but my "hold up" items where as follows:
1) Fuel Tank Sealant
2) Firewall Sealant
3) Molex Crimper
4) Machined D-Sub pins and crimper
5) Fiberglass cloth and resin to complete the canopy and cowling

These 'hold ups' can avoided by simple preplanning, but I was a first time builder and ignorant to requirments of the build. I think I was in the minority of builders who recieved trim harnesses without the D-sub pins, so this may not be an issue now. Good luck and have fun.
 
My plans are to build an RV12 within the next couple of years.
One of my questions, since you guys mentioned stick grips & switches, can this be done and still fall in the "rules" of the LSA stuff?:confused: I honestly don't know just exactly what is allowed and what isn't.

Marshall Alexander
 
You can do anything you want as long as it don't violate the LSA rules, stall speed, top speed, fixed prop and gear etc.
However, the ELSA rules are a different situation. To avoid some picky inspector, it would probably be best to wait until it is certified as an ELSA, THEN you can do most anything you want. The ELSA must be built pretty much as the SLSA pattern you are using. I have a whole list of changes and additions I am doing to mine - the day after inspection.
 
The ELSA rules were what I was refering to. That's what I had questions about. So I do understand now it's best to wait til after inspection.:) Thanks.

Marshall Alexander
 
May I add Thread Sealant for Section 28, the fuel line installation. I wanted to have one that resisted alcohol in any concentration and went with RectorSeal No.7 which is a little harder to come by than the standard No. 5.
Oh, and also a small tube cutter for the same section, I love the $5 one from HF #40913.
 
More needed supplies

cotton flox
micro-balloons
non-copper anti-seize
acetone
blue loctite
high temp non-corrosive RTV
brake fluid
baby powder for tire tubes
 
Apparently inspectors are somewhat clueless when it comes to slight deviations, I have not heard of anyone having to delete something or the other when getting their inspection. If anyone has, let us know about it.

RV10Man said:
The ELSA rules were what I was refering to. That's what I had questions about. So I do understand now it's best to wait til after inspection.:) Thanks.

Marshall Alexander
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I agree on the PTT switches, I haven't changed mine out yet, but plan to do so when I get the AC back from the paint shop. I bought Steinair part number "PTT" to use: http://www.steinair.com/switches.htm much easier to change out during the build. (hopefully my problem is not with the intercom, another item I would like to upgrade)

We used the Westech system for the fiberglass layup, it's very nice to work with.
 
Bitten again

Well, had another of those moments this morning. I knew I needed Loctite for the flaperon screw-in joints, so sent the grand daughter down to the local parts store(s) to pick up a tube, EVERYONE knows loctite is everywhere, just get it when you need it. WRONG! Seems as if Vans wants you to use loctite 243, nobody has it and cannot even order it! Finally found some online, will be here in a few days.
 
DonFromTX said:
Well, had another of those moments this morning. I knew I needed Loctite for the flaperon screw-in joints, so sent the grand daughter down to the local parts store(s) to pick up a tube, EVERYONE knows loctite is everywhere, just get it when you need it. WRONG! Seems as if Vans wants you to use loctite 243, nobody has it and cannot even order it! Finally found some online, will be here in a few days.
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I am just checking where this loctite is needed. I am guessing you are refering to installing the rod end bearing step 6 page 18-06. This makes no mention of loctite. I have also checked page 30-04 where the flaperons are installed to the wings. Also no mention of loctite. Am I missing somthing?

Julian 120316
 
You sure are, I am guessing you have an old set of plans? Page 18-06, step 6 specifies Loctite 243 specifically (read EVERYTHING in step 6). There is no lock nut on those, and they should not need to be adjusted, so they just have you loctite them into the brackets you made and threaded.

J.Coles said:
I am just checking where this loctite is needed. I am guessing you are refering to installing the rod end bearing step 6 page 18-06. This makes no mention of loctite. I have also checked page 30-04 where the flaperons are installed to the wings. Also no mention of loctite. Am I missing somthing?

Julian 120316
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J.Coles said:
I am just checking where this loctite is needed. I am guessing you are refering to installing the rod end bearing step 6 page 18-06. This makes no mention of loctite. I have also checked page 30-04 where the flaperons are installed to the wings. Also no mention of loctite. Am I missing somthing?

Julian 120316
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There's a revision page. I didn't know about it either until I read about it here this morning.

I'm not sure what the loctite is supposed to accomplish since those bearings can't possibly back out - my best guess is to reduce vibration.
 
Well they would work in the threads and eventually cause wear in the threads. I was concerned that they did not use a locknut on it, but then found the loctite instruction, that will work just as well.
 
Dgamble said:
There's a revision page. I didn't know about it either until I read about it here this morning.

I'm not sure what the loctite is supposed to accomplish since those bearings can't possibly back out - my best guess is to reduce vibration.
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Hi Dave, It does look like I am missing somthing. I dont see a reference for this on this site. I guess I should check Vans site however I like the idea that I can check this site every few days for these sort of things.

Julian 120316
 
More Missing Items

Well, I got bit again today. Was putting the tires and tubes together, first order of business was use lots of talcum powder. Simple enough, I had none in the house so I spent a few hours trying to pick some up. Guess what, nowhere to be found! Came home, found it caused cancer, so only Aircraft Spruce and NAPA sell it (for tires of course). The local NAPA never stocked it, and will have me some in the morning. Torsten found some on Amazon. Hard stuff to capture these days, add it to your list.
 
Probably just fine, I almost did too. It has so much perfume and extras, I did not trust it on the tubes. I suppose if we use baby powder that knocks the ELSA and we would have to go EAB.:D
 
DonFromTX said:
Probably just fine, I almost did too. It has so much perfume and extras, I did not trust it on the tubes. I suppose if we use baby powder that knocks the ELSA and we would have to go EAB.:D
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Lot's of tube & tire installers use baby powder. Google it and see.

P.S. -- I used baby powder on mine. Got it from a auto mechanic close to the hangar.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
Just to keep this going, I got hit again this week, NOW we need Loctite 242! Seems they want us to use it to attach the autopilot servos to the airframe. Someday we will have a whole list here for the newcomers.
 
Safety wire

Somebody posted a question somewhere about what gauge safety wire to use. Can't recall seeing a response, and maybe it isn't critical, but I'd appreciate some guidance here too.
 
rgmwa said:
Somebody posted a question somewhere about what gauge safety wire to use. Can't recall seeing a response, and maybe it isn't critical, but I'd appreciate some guidance here too.
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The rule I have always followed is what I have been taught - the largest size that will fit through the holes being used. Occasionally, thre are eceptions (as in most rules). Unfortunately, I don't have a reference to say whether or not that is correct - I suspect that it is in AC43.13, and someone might supply the actual guideline.

Paul
 
Loctite 648

Speaking of loctite, the rotax manual calls for loctite 648 on the hexhead bolts securing the coolant hoses to their ports. Anyone know an equivalent loctite product or a good source for 648? Help is appreciated!
 
Business opportunity here, for someone to sell a package of all the Loctites and the talc and safety wire and all that sort of thing.

Dave
 
Loctite 648

Thanks Don, your goggle is better than my goggle. Loctite 648 here I come.
Now for Loctite 221!
Slane
 
Just found another, page 34-13, Step 4 requires a 7/8 unibit. None in my tool kit, fortunately I had bought one from Harbor Freight for another project.
 
CAMLOC PLIERS

A special pair of pliers are required to compress the spring on camloc fasteners while installing them on the map box door and cowl door. I made my own by cutting slots in an old pair of pliers.
Joe Gores
 
Loctite 567

After quite a search for something that would seal threads in fittings from ethanol, gasoline, and brake fluid, Joe pointed me to Loctite 567. One of the very vew thread sealants you can use with confidence on brake fittings and fuel line fittings holding ethanol and gasoline. Better order a tube now. Loctite 567.
 
This list sould be very valuable for a newbie, sure wish it existed when I started. I just found I need brake fluid. Apparently either 5606 Avn Brake Fluid or Mil PRF 83282 is what it takes.
 
There is no special tool required for the camlock fittings on the oil door. Hold it in your hand like you are holding a hypodermic needle with your thumb on the mickey-mouse-ear shaped handle acting as the hypo plunger. Push the "plunger" to compress the spring while your two fingers rest on the round base part. The extended "needle" will go right through the hole at an angle. Release, done.
 
Rectorseal 5 is listed for gasoline and gasohol. I already had some on-hand when I was doing the gas fittings. I got the Loctite 567 when I got to the brakes. If I had already had the 567 I would have used it for the gas as well. But reading some posts got me worried... so I put some of the Rectorseal 5 in a paint can cap, let it set up, and poured in gas with ethanol. No effect. http://www.rectorseal.com/files/212/dsno5.htm
 
Bleeding Brakes

Almost got snagged by another one today, what I THOUGHT was a pressure brake bleeding package hanging on my pegboard for some time - was not.
I bought a pump oil can from Harbor freight to make into a bleeder, from the bottom up of course. Another thing to be sure is on the list.
 
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