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Building the -8 wing

Don Patrick

Don Patrick

Well Known Member
I'm ordering my wings in March and am currently buying the "accessories" that will go into it, here's what I have so far:

SafeAir pitot-static kits
SafeAir angle of attack kits
SafeAir pitot mast (for the dynon)
SafeAir quick disconnect kit for the wings
Duckworks 100W landing light kit (will upgrade a High intensity LED in the future)
Flop tube for one tank
5o' of electrical conduit
and the stall warning kit.

I'm also ordering the bung kit to install on the tanks ($60) in the event I want to install the ER tanks from Hotel Wiskey Aviation.

I will be ordering the upgraded locking fuel caps with the flanges as well for the fuel tank install. Also looking at putting the AveoCanada Aveoflash in the wing tips with the Posistrobe in the tail..time for that though.

Any other suggestions on what I may want to add as well?

Cheers and thanks.

Don
 
WOW;
That's a lot of parts.
Right now I'd be cleaning up the work space and getting the wing jig set up.
You are going to be busy assembling the wing structure, and the stuff you bought will sit on the shelf for a while. I think most of it will go in when you fit the skins, and the last bit when you fit the wings to the fuse.
You might want to find a secure place to keep that stuff (and the instructions) so it doesn't get lost.
I spent a lot of attention on etch alodine & prime in the wings, and I made conduit from light PVC irrigation tube. I'm just getting a few of the accessories now that I fit the wings and set the incidence.
I would advise you NOT to buy any avionics yet. I bought mine several years ago, and now I would have picked entirely different stuff.
 
My personal view, both as a builder and now having flown our RV-8 for 3 years, would be delete all of it except maybe the Flop Tube (only fit this if you fit a FULL inverted Oil System and IO engine), and the conduit - latter get the smallest size.

If your "mission" absolutely requires the upgrades, maybe go for them but ensure you really do need them.

Reasoning:
  1. RV-8, unique amongst RVs (even RV-8A), has adequate natural stall warning, so no need for Stall Warner / AoA etc.
  2. Vans Landing Light kit works well, does not require LE cut into, is light, and as you say, sub the MR16s for LED versions and cut wire size right down
  3. Quick Disconnect? Your wings will go on/off during build, but no need to hook up lines. At final build connect them up "permanently". If you need to remove your wings later on, you've got major issues and redoing pitot line is the least of them!
  4. The Vans Pitot / Static system is light, simple, cheap and works fine for most. OK - maybe upgrade to the $10 SS pitot ;)

Andy
RV-8 G-HILZ
 
Shopping list--

Don, I plan on using nearly the same shopping list as you did. My qb kit should be delivered within a few weeks. I have not decided on landing lights yet, and I did not include the stall warning (think the AOA should be sufficient). Still on the fence regarding a flop tube (although am planning for an IO engine.) I also ordered a Dynon roll servo mounting bracket. I agree with Andy about the quick disconnect lines for AOA/Pitot--if you have a need to remove wings after you have it flying, you could always cut the lines and add them at that time. The best part of building your own aircraft is the ability to completely customize it for your own personal mission! Happy building! :D

Skyking902001
RV8
emp done
waiting on QB kit
 
Stall warning kit

Check first before purchasing the stall warning kit. It now comes standard with the RV-7 wing.
 
Don Patrick said:
...
SafeAir angle of attack kits
Click to expand...
Not needed due to
Don Patrick said:
SafeAir pitot mast (for the dynon)
Click to expand...
BTW, don't use the SafeAir mast. Get the Gretz

Don Patrick said:
SafeAir quick disconnect kit for the wings
Click to expand...
Don't bother, just run the tube all the way to the panel after you install the wings the last time. No connector needed.

Don Patrick said:
Duckworks 100W landing light kit (will upgrade a High intensity LED in the future)
Click to expand...
Good move. Same thing I'm doing. Still waiting for some LED's at the right price.

Don Patrick said:
and the stall warning kit.
Click to expand...
Why do you need that if you are going to have the Dynon AOA?
 
larrynew said:
Check first before purchasing the stall warning kit. It now comes standard with the RV-7 wing.
Click to expand...

I just received my RV8 wing kit from Vans last week and it included the stall warning. It appears to be standard equipment as I did not order it. Ken at Van's said he didn't realize they were shipping it as part of the kit now, but was not surprised. in any event, I got one and they didn't ask for more money.
 
I have a Gretz mast and after only 2 months of flying my -8 it has started visibly corroding. I'd get a pitot mast that isn't chromed and paint it the color of the wing.
 
Thanks folks,

Yup, the stall warner comes with the wings as standard equipment now, with the slat cut into the wing.

Also cancelling the quick disconnect along with the warner.

True, I really don't need the stall warner, but it doesn't seem to much to install, and I'll add a cut=off switch for it.

Sticking with the mast...heard goods things about it.

Don
 
I agree with Andy...Delete all

After more than ten years of flying, and over 1200 hours, I don't think I'd install anything on your list. Andy said it well. While AOA might be useful, it is not needed. The aircraft has a gentle stall, and the airframe gives plenty of warning. The Doll has the Duckworks landing lights, but the new tip installed lights work fine. Those were not available back in the nineties. The Doll has a flop tube in the left tank, but I could live without it. Changing it every five years is a pain.

I believe the standard pitot is far superior to any other system. It's simple, accurate, and is all that is needed! The Doll is fully IFR legal! You do not need heated pitot, or AOA, or a stall warning to fly IFR. Having an iced over pitot will be the very least of your problems if you are foolish enough to fly into icing. Some of us, including yours truly, have even taken off with the pitot cover on, (are you reading this DR), and the resulting landing without A/S was a non-event. Like I said, the RV-8 airframe talks to you if you're listening.

Keeping it simple is not only cheaper, it usually is the best. KISS should be the guide building your RV.
 
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Right on Danny

After 2400 RV hours I too can agree that you do not need any of that extra stuff. The flop tube is a pain to change and rarely used. The standard Pitot is the way to go.
Well said Danny!
Keep It Simple and you will fly a lot,,,,,,,, not work a lot.....
 
Ah man.....thanks for the info folks....Now I'm re-evaluating....should post and ask questions before I buy!!!

I do plan on instlaling the Duckworks for the leading edge. I just like the look of the light up front. No need for the stall or the quick disconnect, so that will be going back..now the flop tube, I don't really plan to do any sustained inverted, so I guess there really isn't a real need for that?

I did pick up the metal for the wings stands today. 2X2 steel tube with 2 inch angle to be welded for feet. Don't have a whole lot to do until the wings get ordered, so I might as well make the satnd look good...I kow some that don't even use a stand to build the wings?

Cheers
 
wing tips

Do you know that you can order the old style tips. I think they are better looking. Just ask for them when you order your wing kit. In writing...
 
Don Patrick said:
I did pick up the metal for the wings stands today. 2X2 steel tube with 2 inch angle to be welded for feet. Don't have a whole lot to do until the wings get ordered, so I might as well make the stand look good...I know some that don't even use a stand to build the wings?
Click to expand...

Don,
If you're building Rudi's stand http://rudigreyling.com/rv7.html, you'll need 2x4 square tube. Probably a typo but thought I'd check. I used Rudi's design and really liked it. My technical counselor wants a set. Now that I'm working on the aft part of the wing, I've flipped the brackets and have the wings mounted nose down. Makes access easy.

Snapshot_20101026.jpg
 
I also thought I'd need a flop tube for my RV4. Never needed it, not once. Any kind of sustained negative g maneuvering just isnt FUN (for me at least). And it does have the potential to wear a hole in the bottom skin of your fuel tank. That's why it needs to be replaced: the hose can crack *and* the O-ring around the end of the tube pickup can wear out then it will be metal-on-metal + vibration. I'd suggest eliminating the flop tube, unless you're into negative-g's.
 
Hey Larry,

Yup, I got 2X2 square, 54" and it's 1/4 inch thick. I'm modifying Rudy's plans a bit and the strength of the 2X2's should be sufficient with the 12" channel I'm using for the feet. Thanks for the tip on flipping the brackets!

It's great getting everyones opinion who've been there and done that. I'm dropping the flop tube and stall warner (sending them back) along with the quick disconnect. I'm sticking with the pitot/static as I plan to put the Dynon D180 in.

Now one thing I'll throw out there before I make the move, is the thought of the upgraded locking fuel caps? Worth the time and money?

Thanks for the input everyone...I really don't want to spend money unnecessarily and am definately learning along the way! Much appreciated!

Cheers

Don
 
is the thought of the upgraded locking fuel caps? Worth the time and money?
Click to expand...
The standard Vans caps are not the best quality, and tend to leak water in after a bit. Theft of Fuel is not unknown either.

The lockable caps tend to get good reviews for quality, not leaking as well as security/looks. We have the Andair ones, which are "retrofit" in the Vans flange and take about 2 mins to install! Vans sell them as well. Also good writeups on the other lockable ones Vans sell.

Andy
 
No Diff

No difference in speed that I know of.
Seems Mel did a test and found some small difference. I do not remember what it was. sink? stall?
The 'Bat' tips and the new ones make for longer span.
 
There was a thread somewhere, I started it I think ;) - conclusion seemed to be that the old style tips probably were better - the design I think effectively "adding span".

Andy
 
I've got those older square tips, and I'm installing the tip light kit with lens from Van's. I'm also installing a Bob Archer Spotrtcraft VOR antenna in the right tip. The tip light kit requires a lot of trimming to fit flush to the tip skin. So far I have cut away the mount flange at the front and the top. Now it 'snaps' into the cut I made in the tip, but it's still below flush. I think I need to start cutting back the under lapping bonding flange. This is mentioned in the instructions, but I didn't realize how much is required. I'll surely be fiberglassing it in from the back as well as bonding at the flange.
These don't seem to have enough room for the landing light, position light and strobe, so I think a Duxworks landing light system is called for...
 
New versus Old

Doug Lewis said:
Besides aesthetics is there a reason to get one tip over the other?
Click to expand...

The newer, "sheared" tips are designed for flush mount lighting. They have enough room to install an MR16 style landing light, strobes and position lights. See

http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin...433790-288-594&browse=lighting&product=ll_7-8

The older "Hoerner" [W-415] tips have a landing light kit available [at extra cost and work]. There is not enough room in them to fit the other two lights. See

http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin...33790-288-594&browse=lighting&product=airtech

The kit above is just to modify the old Hoerner tips to have landing lights. The lighting kit itself is extra.

The choice is yours.

Charlie Kuss

PS If in doubt, simply omit the wing tips from your wing kit. You can always order the tips later, once you make up your mind.
 
Danny King said:
...The Doll has a flop tube in the left tank, but I could live without it. Changing it every five years is a pain.....
Click to expand...
Danny, I've never heard that comment before, please explain. I too, originally installed a flop tube in the left tank in the -6A. Lacking an inverted oil system and given the type of flying I do, agree it is not necessary. Still, in place for well over 5 years now, are you saying that flop tube is due for replacement?
 
Don Patrick said:
... I'm dropping the ... stall warner ...
Click to expand...

Greetings Don,

I'll argue in favor of keeping the additional stall warning device. Even though the aircraft may give plenty of natural stall warning, it's those times when you're distracted, and your attention is not fully on the flying, that you may benefit from an additional, direct stall warning.

I put Van's stall warning kit in my -9 wing, it was straightforward to put in, has little weight, and the kit was nicely done by Van's.

Good luck, and happy building!
John
 
RVNineA said:
Greetings Don,

I'll argue in favor of keeping the additional stall warning device. Even though the aircraft may give plenty of natural stall warning, it's those times when you're distracted, and your attention is not fully on the flying, that you may benefit from an additional, direct stall warning.

I put Van's stall warning kit in my -9 wing, it was straightforward to put in, has little weight, and the kit was nicely done by Van's.

Good luck, and happy building!
John
Click to expand...

+1. Although if it is coming standard now, I guess this isn't an issue.
 
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oh yeah, I ordered the deluxe fuel caps too....wings should be here 1st or 2nd week of April according to Anne. Can't wait!
 
Found out today that the tie-down rings aren't part of the wing kit??? Something so cheap to boot? I don't get it.
 
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