Tips and techniques wanted for Rustoleum Hammered Interior Finish

I'm almost decided on the use of Rustoleum rattle can hammered paint for my interior. I'm thinking of using silver for the interior, bronze for the panel, and black for the canopy frame & windscreen.

I started a test of the 3 colors, and decided to try 3 different surface preps. I scuffed and cleaned 3 test pieces. On the left I applied the Rustoleum clean metal primer, which is white. The center of each piece is bare (no primer) and the right side is Napa 7220 which is what I've been using elsewhere:


Next I painted each piece with the Rustoleum Hammered finish:


After one (probably too heavy) coat - the silver looks great, and the bronze looks OK. It looks like there are "pinholes" in the black, especially on the primed surfaces. I'm planning on trying some sort of scratch test once it hardens well.

I like the low cost of the paint, the easy availability, the nozzles are great, and i'm hoping touch-ups will be easy.

For people with more experience than I (which is everyone):

0) For these test pieces I applied a single, sort of heavy coat, and of course the pieces were horizontal. For the interior would I be better off with 2 light coats, especially on the vertical sides?

1) is there some sort of clear coat that I could apply to further increase hardness - hopefully without making it more shiny? Maybe a matte finish vs a gloss? Love to hear specific product recommendations and experiences, both in applicaiton and real-world use.

2) The paint is a bit shiny - the bronze is shinier than the silver and the black is shiniest. Can I do anything about that?

3) I think the black might be too reflective for the top of the glareshield. I'm planning on putting some vinyl up there anyway but thought that some black paint would make it so the vinyl won't have to be perfectly fit. What paint have others used on top of the glareshield?

4) I don't want reflections on the top of the glareshield, but on the bottom I think I reflections might be a good thing. There will be LED lights there and I figure the more light bouncing down from that towards the panel the better. What have others put o the bottom of the glaresheild?

Thanks for any painting tips!

worked great for me

I used Hammered Brown and love it. Applied epoxy primer to the surfaces first and then the brown over top. I painted my interior very early in the process and it has held up very nicely through all the other work I've done. The few places that needed touch ups are a snap and it cost nearly nothing. Let it cure several days though before you mess with it. Good luck.

Rustoleum

I used hammered gray on my interior, painted it early and it is holding up well. Touch-ups can be done with a tiny brush where you drop sharp things on it

Rustoleum does make clears that work over this paint. I experimented like you did and cleared over it and it is very durable, but I decided it is so repairable, that I'd save the weight of the clear. I sprayed it over 7220.

Finally, I found less is better on the first coat - get it covered, but not heavy and let the paint separate as it it going to do to produce the hammered finish, then put a second coat on per the label wait time. Seems to produce a finer hammered finish.

Good Luck

I did my interior with Jetflex. I swore after years of messing with paint out of spray cans that there was no way I'd use it. While the Jetflex job came out ok, I reneged on my promise to myself and tried painting some parts with a can of Hammered Silver that we had in the hangar, because they were small.

Rustoleum seems to have gotten the chemistry right. I've now applied it over Rustoleum grey primer on steel, no primer on steel, Sherwin Williams GBP 988 on aluminum, and onto bare (acetone wiped & scotchbrited) aluminum. As long as you let it dry for a couple of weeks the stuff seems tenacious no matter what the surface treatment. If I were doing it over I'd use the silver hammered on my interior. A medium coat followed by another medium coat after the first has flashed off worked well for me both on horizontal and vertical surfaces.


Just my experience...

I used the Rustoleum "textured" paint in a tan shade. It is really tuff and still looking great. It has been on for three years now and there are absolutely no chips yet. I'm very happy with it. I used NAPA's self etching primer underneath it too. I'm also very happy with it. I bought a can of the "hammered" paint first, but decided that I preferred the "textured" finish. Both look great though and the process is much simpler than some other ways of finishing the interior.

David Watson
49FD

I bought it in a quart can and thinned it with the stuff recommened on the can at the ratio listed on the can.

There is a learning curve to spraying this stuff to get a consistent texture. It does not take long to figure it out. Practice on some scraps.

Light first coat, wait a few minutes and then a medium coat, wait repeat. The distance to the parts makes a big difference as well.

I used hammered gray on the interior and the hammered silver on the panel. I didn't worry too much about a consistent texture because, well, it's a hammered finish and, to me, the inconsistency is part of its charm.

The one area that I find difficult is the side skirts on the tip up over the rivets. The vibration of subsequent riveting etc just seems to shake it off. But, on the other hand, the closer I get to flying, the less I care.

Hammered Spray Rustoleum

I'm using Rustoleum Hammered light grey and dark grey on my interior and I think it is great. Tip: the hammered texture does better on pieces laid flat to gravity. Pieces held vertical to gravity don't get the same hammered look. Also it comes in liquid brush-able which I used in some places and for touch ups.

have fun

It's a little bit of a pain, but

this primer: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=43 does a great job of preparing for a rustoleum hammered finish paint for your interior. I found it to significantly improve the adhesion and chip resistance of the final finish. I thinned with distilled wate3r and 96% isopropyl (sp?) alcohol to get it to spray OK. YMMV.

IowaRV9Dreamer said:

I'm almost decided on the use of Rustoleum rattle can hammered paint for my interior. I'm thinking of using silver for the interior, bronze for the panel, and black for the canopy frame & windscreen.

I started a test of the 3 colors, and decided to try 3 different surface preps. I scuffed and cleaned 3 test pieces. On the left I applied the Rustoleum clean metal primer, which is white. The center of each piece is bare (no primer) and the right side is Napa 7220 which is what I've been using elsewhere:


Next I painted each piece with the Rustoleum Hammered finish:


After one (probably too heavy) coat - the silver looks great, and the bronze looks OK. It looks like there are "pinholes" in the black, especially on the primed surfaces. I'm planning on trying some sort of scratch test once it hardens well.

I like the low cost of the paint, the easy availability, the nozzles are great, and i'm hoping touch-ups will be easy.

Thanks for any painting tips!

Click to expand...

So, is it time for the scratch test yet?

scratch test results

I did the scratch test using a small screwdriver and the results surprised me.

All 3 rustoleum paints (black, silver, bronze) performed about the same. The difference depended on what was under the paint.

The areas primed by the Rustoleum clean metal primer (which was white) did not adhere as well. To add insult to injury, of course the white primer shows through more on the scratched areas, especially with the black paint.

The areas primed by the NAPA 7220 and no primer (scuffed alcad) had the better adhesion. There was essentially no difference between the NAPA primer and the scuffed alcad.

After the scratch test, I recoated the pieces and the results were acceptable. You seem to lose a lot of the hammered finish when you recoat. That even seems to happen on a 2nd coat when initially painting the part.

Overall the differences are minor. The results of this test have led me to not worry too much about primer under my interior paint. So far I've painted every removable part of the interior, and am getting ready to mask of the fuselage for the rest of it. I've been doing two coats. Be sure to let it dry like a week before messing with it.

Good luck to all.

PS - I found the paint for about $5.50 at Wal-Mart (aviation interior paint aisle). That is about $1/can cheaper than Lowes.

So it'd been several months - how is your paint holding up?

I started repainting the interior of out 6 a couple years ago and found myself flying every time I went to "work" on the plane..

Two of my current airplane's interiors have a silver/grey hammer tone finish from the factory. One was built in in 1967 and the other in 1972 and the finish still has held up in excellent condition on both.

Don't know who manufactured the paint but the silver/grey hammer tone looks great and has held up even in the baggage areas.

FWIW Cardinal Industrial Finishes makes a Poly Urethane two component hammer tone paint in a wide variety of colors. This paint is more durable and has better weathering than the rattle can one part hammer tone paints.

Cardinal also has a matching powder paint if you want to paint any parts via the powder paint method.

We used Cardinal two part green/gold hammer tone to to repaint our heavily oxidized pool fence and pool furniture about 5 years ago and the finish still looks like new.