RudiGreyling
Well Known Member
Good Morning RVators,
I trimmed and fitted my doors this weekend with good results, with the aid of Index Hole Duplicator Straps. It might be common knowledge, or someone might have done the same, but I though it might be useful for some guys to document it here...
First you, fit the door back on the cabin outside. I transferred the edge of the door on around the cabin frame. Then I removed the doors, measured back the width that needs to be cut off door to get a close fit to the door frame recess (I took a measurement every 4 inches or so) and transferred this measurement onto the door and cut to this line instead of the scribe line. In the picture below you can see the first cut for fitting the doors, you can also see the old door exterior lines and the places I took my measurements.
In the next picture you can see a close-up of the door as it fits proud on the cabin top. Remember we used the cabin top as a jig to get the door shape correct when we epoxied the door inner and outer skins together. You can also see the reference lines I described above I used for measuring the initial door cuts instead of the scribe marks.
You saw the door reference index hole tabs in the above pictures, you use it to position the door on the cabin. Well Vans have you cut them off at this stage to fit the door flush into the door frame. The problem as soon as you cut them off, is that you have a floating door without reference points, so my thinking gears started crunching…
Door Index Hole Duplicator Straps:
What I came up with was very simple. Create Index Hole Duplicators Straps on the outside surface that allows you to fit the doors flush, but still keep the door position fixed at the correct place. This way you are always ensured your door fits in the same place during the numerous times you fit and trim it to get it flush. The duplicator straps also ensure you can install the door hinges, door handle, closing pins and closing mechanism all with the doors in a fixed referenced position
Below is the picture of my rear duplicator strap and where it will fit over the door tabs you will cut off. The holes in the door you can fill later, a simple downside and easy to fix, but it ensures your doors fit good.
Fit the duplicator strap then back-drill the door tab index hole through the duplicator. Now here comes another trick. Remember in order for your door to fit flush into the cabin the door need to move down the thickness of the door skin AND it needs to move inboard the thickness of door skin. So drill another hole just above the index hole the thickness of the door skin (+/- 3/32”) to account for this downward movement of the door when you get close final flush fitment.
Repeat for the front index hole but remember the front has an inner door skin recess at the door handle, so angle your duplicator strap so that you don’t drill through the inner door skin at the recess.
Fit the door, mark and trim, fit mark and trim, fit mark and trim until you are happy. I found an angle grinder with a flap disc with 80 grit paper on to work the best for the initial 45degree bevel. Just smooth it out with a sanding block. I started with the door sides to ensure it will fit. I initially used the the cut off tabs as spacers under the duplicator strap for the initial fitting. Then I moved on to the upper index hole to account for the door drop and removed the tab spacers to account for the door inboard movement, keep on trimming until it fits flush.
With my duplicator straps I manage to get a very good door fit
My doors are for the most part perfectly flush without exerting any force on them with the cabin and at worst +/- 1/32” to 1/16” in one or two places. I am happy with it, these minor imperfections will be filled with filler later. Below is a picture of the top.
The best part is I can use the duplicator straps to keep the door position fixed while I continue with the rest of the door installation, hinges and closing mechanism.
I hope you find it useful
Kind Regards
Rudi
I trimmed and fitted my doors this weekend with good results, with the aid of Index Hole Duplicator Straps. It might be common knowledge, or someone might have done the same, but I though it might be useful for some guys to document it here...
First you, fit the door back on the cabin outside. I transferred the edge of the door on around the cabin frame. Then I removed the doors, measured back the width that needs to be cut off door to get a close fit to the door frame recess (I took a measurement every 4 inches or so) and transferred this measurement onto the door and cut to this line instead of the scribe line. In the picture below you can see the first cut for fitting the doors, you can also see the old door exterior lines and the places I took my measurements.
In the next picture you can see a close-up of the door as it fits proud on the cabin top. Remember we used the cabin top as a jig to get the door shape correct when we epoxied the door inner and outer skins together. You can also see the reference lines I described above I used for measuring the initial door cuts instead of the scribe marks.
You saw the door reference index hole tabs in the above pictures, you use it to position the door on the cabin. Well Vans have you cut them off at this stage to fit the door flush into the door frame. The problem as soon as you cut them off, is that you have a floating door without reference points, so my thinking gears started crunching…
Door Index Hole Duplicator Straps:
What I came up with was very simple. Create Index Hole Duplicators Straps on the outside surface that allows you to fit the doors flush, but still keep the door position fixed at the correct place. This way you are always ensured your door fits in the same place during the numerous times you fit and trim it to get it flush. The duplicator straps also ensure you can install the door hinges, door handle, closing pins and closing mechanism all with the doors in a fixed referenced position
Below is the picture of my rear duplicator strap and where it will fit over the door tabs you will cut off. The holes in the door you can fill later, a simple downside and easy to fix, but it ensures your doors fit good.
Fit the duplicator strap then back-drill the door tab index hole through the duplicator. Now here comes another trick. Remember in order for your door to fit flush into the cabin the door need to move down the thickness of the door skin AND it needs to move inboard the thickness of door skin. So drill another hole just above the index hole the thickness of the door skin (+/- 3/32”) to account for this downward movement of the door when you get close final flush fitment.
Repeat for the front index hole but remember the front has an inner door skin recess at the door handle, so angle your duplicator strap so that you don’t drill through the inner door skin at the recess.
Fit the door, mark and trim, fit mark and trim, fit mark and trim until you are happy. I found an angle grinder with a flap disc with 80 grit paper on to work the best for the initial 45degree bevel. Just smooth it out with a sanding block. I started with the door sides to ensure it will fit. I initially used the the cut off tabs as spacers under the duplicator strap for the initial fitting. Then I moved on to the upper index hole to account for the door drop and removed the tab spacers to account for the door inboard movement, keep on trimming until it fits flush.
With my duplicator straps I manage to get a very good door fit
My doors are for the most part perfectly flush without exerting any force on them with the cabin and at worst +/- 1/32” to 1/16” in one or two places. I am happy with it, these minor imperfections will be filled with filler later. Below is a picture of the top.
The best part is I can use the duplicator straps to keep the door position fixed while I continue with the rest of the door installation, hinges and closing mechanism.
I hope you find it useful
Kind Regards
Rudi
