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Tight rudder pedals????

Phil

Phil

Well Known Member
Tonight I hung my rudder pedals for the final time. :)


..... but I have a question about how free they should swing on the plastic bearings.

After I torqued the center plastic bearing up to 25 inches, the rudder pedals became very tight. I backed off to 20 inches, but they're still really tight.

My mind tells me that they should swing (almost) freely, but these do not.

Anyone else experience this when they tightened down the two-piece bearing over the tunnel? Is this how they're supposed to be?

Phil
 
As I recall, mine felt pretty tight by hand, but not noticeable when pushing with your feet/legs. They will also loosen up a bit with use.
 
Phil said:
Tonight I hung my rudder pedals for the final time. :)


..... but I have a question about how free they should swing on the plastic bearings.

After I torqued the center plastic bearing up to 25 inches, the rudder pedals became very tight. I backed off to 20 inches, but they're still really tight.

My mind tells me that they should swing (almost) freely, but these do not.

Anyone else experience this when they tightened down the two-piece bearing over the tunnel? Is this how they're supposed to be?

Phil
Click to expand...

Do you have the spacer washers installed between the blocks to compensate for cutting the block into two pieces?
 
Hey Scott,

I checked my revision of the plans (Rev 0) and it doesn't show washers for spacers. I also checked the site just to make sure I didn't miss an update, but there aren't any updates.

However that's a really good idea. Is that something they do in the other side by sides?

Phil
 
Phil said:
Hey Scott,

I checked my revision of the plans (Rev 0) and it doesn't show washers for spacers. I also checked the site just to make sure I didn't miss an update, but there aren't any updates.

However that's a really good idea. Is that something they do in the other side by sides?

Phil
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I was pretty sure the plans showed a spacer washer between the blocks.
Regardless, the holes in the blocks for the tubes are drilled to match the tube diam. If you cut the block in half you loose material equal to the curf of the blade. With most blades this works out close to an AN960-10 washer.

Put a washer between the blocks at each bolt location and you will have smooth operating pedals.
 
Looks like I might have found an omission. :)

That makes perfect sense to insert the washers for the kerf. Tomorrow night, I'll be sure to do that.

Thanks for the tip!

Phil

IMG00040.jpg
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
Hmmm, I was pretty sure the plans showed a spacer washer between the blocks.
Regardless, the holes in the blocks for the tubes are drilled to match the tube diam. If you cut the block in half you loose material equal to the curf of the blade. With most blades this works out close to an AN960-10 washer.

Put a washer between the blocks at each bolt location and you will have smooth operating pedals.
Click to expand...

Or, if you want a cleaner part. After you cut the block in 1/2, bolt the parts back together and run a 1" spade bit through the hole to clean it up. No washers required.......... Drill press required!!!
 
Mission accomplished....

It took a 960-10 & 960-10L in both holes to bridge the kerf. They're silky smooth now!

Thanks Scott!
Phil
 
Me too

Good catch. Wasn't in my plans either and I took delivery last September. My pedals are already on and the upper fwd fuse riveted on but I think I can add the washers still - on my back but something tells me I'll be doing a lot of that.
 
douglassmt said:
Good catch. Wasn't in my plans either and I took delivery last September. My pedals are already on and the upper fwd fuse riveted on but I think I can add the washers still - on my back but something tells me I'll be doing a lot of that.
Click to expand...

Bring plenty of washers with you so you can do it all in one visit. :)

It made a huge difference in my pedals.
 
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