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  #1  
Old 12-02-2009, 06:42 AM
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Thumbs up Tip: Rib Flange Straightener Tool

Here is my version of a tool made by Bill Gast of Boone Iowa (Gotta give credit to the man who invented it) This REALLY makes the tiresome task of streightining rib flanges go fast, accurate and easy. Mine is made of some old Oak I had on hand, some flat bar from the local ACE hdwar store, a few screws and 2 AN Bolts from the used box . The angle between the anvil and the sqeezer is 11 degrees on the face and 11 degrees on the bottom of the sqeezer.

Last edited by RV9er : 12-04-2009 at 07:31 AM.
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  #2  
Old 12-02-2009, 08:02 AM
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Good design. I'm using one very similiar and it works well. My first attempt used 14 degrees as recommended on another website. I found 11 degrees works best for me.

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  #3  
Old 12-02-2009, 08:06 AM
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Why do you come out with this !#@!! tool just after I completed my last rib?!??!?!?!?
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2009, 09:13 AM
rv8eh rv8eh is offline
 
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Default Electrical tape is your friend

I built one of these out of scraps, and here are my lessons learned:

It matters where you pull on the lever, and how hard.
I marked the sweet spot with a strip of electrical tape.

I was getting occasional scratching of the rib from the tip of the lever (the business end) so ran a strip of electrical tape across it, and replaced it when it fell off or wore - 2x I think.

I used an imperfect piece of plywood for the baseplate, surface wasn't perfectly flat, and ribs would stick slightly as corners caught on the plywood's rough surface.
Yup, a strip of electrical tape a few inches either side of the anvil on the base plate, and no longer a problem. Replaced it occasionally.

I used the angle from the 21 years of the rvator article - it was nice to see the legible picture in the 24 years of the rvator version.

This tool didn't take long to make, and really sped up straightening the ribs.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2009, 09:51 AM
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Claudio, ummm, actually, the flange straightener has been around for years and is detailed in the 21 (or 2x) Years of the RVator book. However, the drawings aren't very clear. For folks just starting the rib straightening, it's well worth the time to build the tool!
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2009, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mototopo View Post
Why do you come out with this !#@!! tool just after I completed my last rib?!??!?!?!?
Just use it on the second RV that you build.
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  #7  
Old 11-11-2011, 08:34 PM
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Resurecting an old thread for others who may not have discovered it. This is excellent idea, so built my own variation of the tool -- see http://www.mculver.com/2011/11/nov-9...ightening.html
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2012, 04:49 PM
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Like Mike, I think it is a good idea for us to occasionally resurrect valuable threads.

I just completed my version of this tool and tested it. Thanks to Bill and others, for the ideas and design pictures.



Now, I just need to get the Empennage out of the way and get started on using it.
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  #9  
Old 04-02-2012, 05:01 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Default HS ribs

This looks like a pretty good idea and way to straighten out the ribs if they are bent. Im just on the empannage kit, but I didn't have much of an issue with bent ribs. The one's that were slightly out, I just used the hand pliers with a 2" mini brake I got at HF. I thought it went pretty quick. I can see how this would do a more accurate job than a hand brake - much more important on the larger wing ribs. If I don't do the QB on the wings, Im going to build one of these.

Thanks for bringing it up again. These little tips really help.
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:45 PM
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After reading this excellent thread, I built my own version (with happy rib inserted)



It works great, though I learned a few things...

For one, you gotta pull pretty hard to straighten the 0.032 ribs; no issue with the 0.025 ribs. Don't be shy building this rig to be strong. The handle should be made out of a dense hardwood; I used 1" square maple here (that's what the aviation department of my local ACE had in stock). The handle is 18" long ... probably about right; 24" would be good too. I got best results clamping the plywood base to the bench so the rig wouldn't move. A 2x4 scrap seems to work fine for the anvil base.

Thanks VAF for the good advice!
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