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Problem 31-06 Reed Switches

JerryG150

JerryG150

Well Known Member
No matter what I do, the reed switches will not activate the red light when placed in the DG4. When I hold the switch where it should be mounted the light activates ... when I place it in the DG4 cushion clip ... nothing ... even with the DG4 unattached (unscrewed) and moved into an infinite # of positions. I trimmed the WD1217 tube a bit but still no go. I also trimmed the bottom rubber off the DG4 but that too didn't help. Any suggestions.
 
Reed switch

Jerry, I, like many others, had that problem. On one side trimming the black steel "handle" a bit did the trick, but the other side was impossible in spite of everything I could think of.

I decided that the 'handle' was shielding the magnetic flux of the little magnet so I took a magnet from the magnetron in an old junk microwave oven (they are VERY strong) and just 'stroked' the magnet against the handle over and over...perhaps 30 or so times....to magnetize that handle. That did the trick and the reed switch closed every time.

I expect any strong magnet would be fine, but the stronger the better to get the handle magnetized.

FWIW
 
Magnet ...hmmmm

John,

Remember the light comes on when the reed switch is not in the DG4, once in the DG4 and hand held (unscrewed into place) no light. I used the rivet-picker-upper magnet I bought at Harbor Freight at the beginning of the project and stroked the WD1217 handle over 100 times, replaced the stopper and set screw ... still the same. Darn.

Thanks for the idea ... but still no go ... maybe magnet wasn't strong enough.
Jerry
 
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Jerry, The light is not suppose to be on unless there is a fault in the pins system. Your post sounds like you expect the light to come on when the switch is in the clamp. If the handle to the pin is in position then the light is out right?
 
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Reed Switch ...

The light should come on when the stopper is fully engaged in the pin latch hole. If I hold the reed switch by hand where it should be screwed into the DG4 cushioned clip the light come on but when I put the reed switch into the DG4 cushioned clamp then no light even though the stopper is fully engaged.

Discouraged in Sarasota, FL,
Jerry
 
JerryG150 said:
The light should come on when the stopper is fully engaged in the pin latch hole. If I hold the reed switch by hand where it should be screwed into the DG4 cushioned clip the light come on but when I put the reed switch into the DG4 cushioned clamp then no light even though the stopper is fully engaged.

Discouraged in Sarasota, FL,
Jerry
Click to expand...

You've got it backwards Jerry.
The light is an indicator of "Spar pins unsafe"
The light should be out when the spar pins are correctly positioned / engaged and should be on when they are not.
 
Reed Switches

Gerry has it right. Pg 31-06 is the test for the switch function. The light should come on.
 
Confused and discouraged in Sarasota

I'm still totally confused. Shouldn't the light be ON when the pin stopper is fully engaged in the hole and all is well?
 
mrt890 said:
Gerry has it right. Pg 31-06 is the test for the switch function. The light should come on.
Click to expand...

JerryG150 said:
I'm still totally confused. Shouldn't the light be ON when the pin stopper is fully engaged in the hole and all is well?
Click to expand...

Sorry...I didn't see his reference to 31-06. I thought he was referencing the indicator light on the switch panel.

Yes, when testing the switch with a test light, the light should be on when the pin is properly engaged.
 
Try enlarging the rivet hole inline with the reed switch and the pin handle when it is locked in place. The hole is in the arm rest. Side the reed switch (in the DG4 clamp) towards the pin as far as you can. A couple of us had to do that to get them to work. Make sure you remove the reed switch before drilling the hole or you may be buying a new reed switch.
 
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Jerry,

I had to do two things to get the reed switches to work reliably.

I replaced the plate with the revised plate that Van's sent us. This brings the magnet closer to the reed switch.

I also had to cut back the steel shroud on the pin per the plans.

Also ensure the tip of the reed switch is pointed directly toward the magnet which is in the pin. The tip of the reed switch should be right up against the inside surface of the armrest. The magnet should also be at the bottom of the hole in the pin.
 
oh well ...

Marty, I already replaced the 2 plates that Van's had sent us ... left and right. I ground down the WD1217 a tiny bit but still no go. I'll try to enlarge the "rivet holes" (thanks for the idea, Larry) and slip the reed switchs thru the armrest a bit and see if that works. If not I'll order new magnets, stoppers and build and tap new stoppers and epoxy them and see if that helps. Those will be my third new stopper on one side ... tap cracked and jammed inside the first stopper ... oh well ...
 
Jerry,

Grind down that shroud as much as the plans allow. Think I even went another 1/16" or so. Grinding the shroud is the key!!

Slipping the reed switch thru an enlarged hole in the armrest will also work as you can then get the reed switch as close as you want to the magnet. Don't get it too close, when the pin is not quite in the hole, the circuit should be open preventing engine start.
 
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31-06 reed switch

Here is a picture of my reed switch. Notice that the top of the WD1217 tube is centered on the reed switch. Also notice that I mounted the reed switch as high as possible. If you are wondering why I replaced the aluminum spar with a wooden one, I prefer wood. :D Actually, it is a 1x8 from the crate that is protruding out from each side of the fuselage and is resting on concrete blocks. The 1x8 also makes good handles for lifting the fuselage. Joe
ReedSw.jpg
 
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thanks for the picture, Joe

Great picture Joe ... but still no light with all in place. I enlarged the rivet hole and slipped the reed switch thru the armrest (flush with the armrest ... didn't have the room to slip it thru as you did ...my WD1217 was too close in).

For now I'll just pretend it works properly and continue with the build. Spent way too many hours on that gizmo already. In time, may figure out a solution ... just not now.

Thank you all for your responses.
 
I guess it would not occur to anyone at Van's that this system still is not fixed and that they might come up with a real fix that works, as it seems that it has not worked for most all of the customers.

Best regards,
Vern
 
Great picture Joe!

vernhendershott said:
I guess it would not occur to anyone at Van's that this system still is not fixed and that they might come up with a real fix that works, as it seems that it has not worked for most all of the customers.

Best regards,
Vern
Click to expand...

Not sure why you say that Vern, mine have worked as advertised for 15 hours of flight. All I have to do is lower the pin into the shaft and mine release the reed switched for a "No Go" reading. Other builders have maybe had issues installing them, but this is due to the complexity of installing reed switches in general.

Jerry, Does the test light function when you put a regular magnet near the switch? I guess what I'm saying is have you tested the light circuit to make sure it works?
 
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31-06 reed switch

I thought that the suggestion by JohnF to magnetize the WD-1217 tube was ingenious. Jerry G, you could have magnetized the WD-1217 with the wrong magnetic polarity, which would hinder instead of help. If I am reasoning correctly, the top of WD-1217 tube should have the same magnetic polarity as the WD-1217C Fuselage Pin Stopper magnet. The polarity of the tube and the magnet can be determined by separating them and then testing each with a compass. When magnetizing an object such as the WD-1217 tube, the polarity is affected not only by the polarity of the stroking magnet, but also by the direction of the strokes. All strokes should be in the same direction. After ending a stroke, the magnet should be held away from the WD-1217 tube while returning to the starting end for the next stroke. The WD-1217 tube could lose its magnetism over time.
Another idea that I had, but never tried, is to cut a 1/2" x 1/2" piece of galvanized steel or tin can lid. Place the small square of steel on top of the F-1248B to help bridge the gap between the magnet and the reed switch. If it works, the steel could be epoxied in place. Jerry, I know that you have spent too much time on the reed switches already, but cutting a small square of steel will not take long.
Let us know if you get it working and what you did.
Joe
 
Hi Larry,

Sorry, I guess I am wrong as usual, I just have this funny idea that when you follow the instructions in the plans, then change the clips, then cut off some of the handle, and then adjust the reed switch and the magnet will still not close the reed switches (yes they do work as intended when closed by a shop magnet) then I think there is a problem and when it happens to many customers I think it is a real problem, but that is just stupid old me.

If we have to have a system it would be nice if it were designed so that it would work reliably when the plans are followed.

Best regards,
Vern
 
Finished mine last night

I installed my reed switches last night. With a combination of grinding the tops of the handles down (about 3/32" on the left, 1/8" on the right) and slightly enlarging the holes in the armrests (not for pushing the reed switch through- just to maximize direct exposure to the end of the switch), I was able to get them to work reliably without too much difficulty. Small adjustments in the cushion clamps made a big difference as well. The new latch plates that were sent to early builders a few months ago are certainly critical. I am not sure how anyone got them to work with the original latch plates.
 
Reed switch installation

It would help me if someone could share how they threaded the reed switch wires through the snap bushings.
Slane
 
It would help me if someone could share how they threaded the reed switch wires through the snap bushings.
Click to expand...
I do not remember that being a problem. The snap bushings are in a straight line and you can get your fingers into the hollow space between them from the bottom. Or you can tape the wire to another stiff wire and poke all of the way through from one side. What kind of problems are you having?
Joe
 
Hey Scott

If I remember correctly, I used a mechanics mirror so you could see how it was doing between the plates.

John Bender
 
Slane said:
It would help me if someone could share how they threaded the reed switch wires through the snap bushings.
Click to expand...

Fish a solid conductor (say #24 or #28 solid uninsulated piece of wire, ie. magnet wire) thru the holes in the bushings, attach the reed switch wire and pull it thru. The bushing holes are tiny so you have to use a minimum amount of tape. A mirror helps.
 
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Reed switch installation

Thanks guys, I got it using stiff wire and taping the reed switch wire to it. I'd been trying that for longer than I want to admit. Your suggestions and some time off did the trick. Now I just realized I need to replace the F-1248 with the replacement parts sent long ago from Van's. Dang it! I will have to repaint:eek:
Slane
 
Slane said:
Thanks guys, I got it using stiff wire and taping the reed switch wire to it. I'd been trying that for longer than I want to admit. Your suggestions and some time off did the trick. Now I just realized I need to replace the F-1248 with the replacement parts sent long ago from Van's. Dang it! I will have to repaint:eek:
Slane
Click to expand...

Try it without replacing the flange. If it works great, if not try the tips in this thread. If it still doen not work replace it. Mine works with the old flange.
 
Do we really need these switches?

They sure seem to give lots of builders problems and it seems very easy to confirm the spar pins are in place without having a starter interlock? It also seems like a failure of these switches could strand you at a remote strip.
Why not just make it a checklist item?
Is this a system you guys would leave off if you were building as an experimental?
Thanks
 
Rick of Austin said:
They sure seem to give lots of builders problems and it seems very easy to confirm the spar pins are in place without having a starter interlock?
Click to expand...

Rick, the reed switches are only a minor nuisance. Use a multimeter for the continuity checks and do the sides one at a time. You just have to find the right position for the switches. A few tries and you will have it, at least that was my experience.

Rick of Austin said:
It also seems like a failure of these switches could strand you at a remote strip.
Click to expand...

That's what the overide button is for.
 
Reed Switch problems

I, too, have had trouble with my reed switch. It seems in my case that the switch lines up on the MIDDLE of the magnet. I'm contemplating drilling the hole for the magnet 1/8" deeper, so that the switch lines up with the upper pole of the magnet, where the field is stronger.

I've found that my switch works fine if the pin is depressed 1/8".

I think the real problem is that the slide hole is just a tad too long, letting the pin go too high, but it is beyond me to fix that.
 
Spar Pin Reed Switch

Here's what I found works best: Assemble the spar locking pin without the spring and insert it in the spar attachment hole. That way you can easily position the locking pin and see where the reed switch closes (use an ohm meter for continuity check to determine if the contacts are closed). Trim the steel locking pin housing (VERY LITTLE INCREMENTS) until you get the switch to pick up where you want it. I found that the note in the drawings about 1/8" maximum trimming is correct. If you trim too much the reed switch will stay closed even if the lock pin is not fully engaged in the hole so go easy on trimming!
 
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