IO-540 pickling- sump access?

Unfortunately, my mid-time IO-540 engine was not pickled for long-term storage after a top OH and test run, and is now going to sit in a crate in my garage for a while (6 months or more possibly).

Although it is pretty dry here in Denver, still concerned about rust over the long term. Have access to cylinders through the spark plug holes, and they are nickel-treated anyhow so won't rust. But for the lower section? Dropping the oil sump seemed to be a relatively simple answer, but looking at Lycoming manuals it does not appear there is much, if any, real access to the drive train (crank, cam, etc.) through the sump area.

Can someone confirm if I would have enough access to spray some fogging preservative oil up through the bottom- at least good enough to make it worth it? If not, other ideas? Just seal it up and use lots of dessicant?

Thanks!
Dwight

You're correct that there's no real access even if the sump is removed. I'd suggest fogging it via the spark plug holes, filler tube and breather port then install desicant plugs. Make sure that you plug up the breather port, intake ports, exhaust port and the flange end of the crankshaft to keep out moisture. Even in Denver there's enough moisture to potentially cause issues over a long period. I've got a friend down in Colorado Springs that started seeing issues because of the moist summer.

Bob
RV-10 N442PM

To preserve my used engine for a couple of years, I went and purchaced some dessicant in bulk on line and then fabricated a holder out of 4" PVC pipe. I used an aquariam pump to pressurize the engine with dry air after it went throuth the dessicant. It worked great.

Gary Specketer

another possibility.

You can go buy some bulk oil, and just fill the crankcase all the way.

Why not just pour many gallons of oil in and fill it right up? Fill it all the way up, so the top of the oil will be above the top of the camshaft.

BTW, that was my solution - bought a bunch of inexpensive car oil and filled to the brim! Better make sure that every last port and opening is covered though...

Bob

Good ideas

Thanks, some good ideas. Hadn't thought of just filling it up. Will make sure the other holes are plugged too.

Dwight

Leaks?

Bob (or others),

What did you use to seal up the openings?

Dwight

I made covers for the intake/exhaust ports out of some plexi I had sitting around. For the prop hub opening I found that a 2" pipe plug worked well - these are found in home improvement stores and used to pressure test 2" PVC.

Bob
RV-10 N442PM

Engine pickling tips

I have done exactly what Kevin and others have suggested regarding filling the engine up completely with oil. Not only will you prevent rust, but submerging the internals in oil will allow that oil to slowly remove any small amounts of rust that are already in the engine.
I have a few comments to add. Use old spark plugs because you're going to submerge them completely with oil. Ask your local A&P for an old set he has removed during plug replacement.
The oil placed into the cylinder area [above the pistons] will leak out of the open valves. For this reason, you need to remove the push-rods so that all the valves will be closed. Be sure to mark ALL the push-rods for location and for which end goes towards the rocker arms. Lycoming push-rods come in different lengths. This is how the dry tappet clearance adjustment is accomplished. You MUST keep each push-rod in it's original location, if you want the engine to run properly later. Also be sure to re-install each rocker arm back to it's original location. Failure to do this may cause galling of the push-rod/rocker arm contact area later.
It takes about 42 quarts of oil to completely fill up an IO-540. Use the cheapest bulk oil you can find. Viscosity is not an issue. Don't use used or waste oil, as you will be introducing dirt and contaminates into your engine. Place a drip pan [available at Pep Boys or Advance Auto Parts for about $10] under the engine. A small amount of oil WILL ooze past the valves and valve seats. An alternative is to jam rubber balls into the exhaust ports to seal this area. I used a tennis ball jammed into the sump to keep oil from oozing past the intake valves from leaking out at the FI servo attach point.
Tag the engine stating that no attempt should be made to rotate the crankshaft. You have effectively hydraulic locked the engine with oil. Be sure to completely drain both the sump and all 4 cylinders of oil, prior to putting the engine back into service. You will also have to reinstall the push-rods. It took me about 40 minutes to remove, mark and store [I used zip lock bags] the push-rods.
I suggested this on the Lycoming list a few years ago. Mahlon Russell from Mattituck gave it his "thumbs up".
Charlie Kuss

chaskuss said:

Use old spark plugs because you're going to submerge them completely with oil.

Click to expand...

Charlie, are you saying that oil will damage new spark plugs?

Noah said:

Charlie, are you saying that oil will damage new spark plugs?

Click to expand...

Noah,
It "could" cause fouling if you attempt an engine start soon after draining the storage oil. There may not be enough time for the storage oil to drain off of the spark plug's porcelain insulator. An easy way to clean this oil off of a good set of plugs is to simply spray the effected area with aerosol brake parts cleaner. It will mix with the oil and evaporate, taking the oil with it. It's basically dry cleaning fluid.
If you have an old, junk set of spark plugs collecting dust, just use them during storage,instead.
Charlie

OK, I've got new plugs half torqued with preservative oil in the cylinders, and had planned to clean these with solvent when I remove the preservative oil and reinstall them. Just want to be sure that the porcelain will not get oil-soaked and damaged somehow. Thanks for the response.