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Is there such thing as a 30 deg pipe fitting?

AX-O

Well Known Member
I am trying to get my purge valve to fit under the cowl/plenum and just cant do it with the configuration shown below. Are there any fittings less than 45 degrees that will fit between the spider and the purge valve?

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Not to my knowledge.

I've seen straight, 45 and 90 degree, but never anything in between.
I even checked my new "Genuine Aircraft Hardware Co" catalog.
 
Ditto

I looked in the Aeroquip catalog and they have the same that Mel referenced. No dice. Looks like you may have to get creative.:eek:
 
Getting creative

You can get any angle you want if you can tolerate a lateral offset. Use two 90 degree elbows, one with a male NPT port and the other with a female NPT port. Mate them together and stop the final turn at whatever angle you want.
 
On the sj plenum you have tocut a hole and make a bulge. There is plenty of room for the purge valve this way

Frank
 
On the sj plenum you have tocut a hole and make a bulge. There is plenty of room for the purge valve this way

Frank

I did that however, my engine is a narrow deck so the spacers that came with the fuel injection kit don't work. I had to make longer spacers, that moved the purge valve further outboard. My cowling sits right on top of the valve. I refuse to put a blister patch on my cowling. So I have to find another way.

CIMG3322.JPG

CIMG3313.JPG
 
How about.....

....Putting a braided teflon hose on it and remote mounting it where ever
you want?
 
Could remote mount it but

the further the valve gest from the spider the less well it will work.

Any chance you could remake the the bracket where it bolts to the engine such that it angles the the whole thing downwards?

Come to theink of it I think I make have even chamfered the alu tubes such that it angled the whole thing downwards myself. You don't need much angle as the assembly is quite long.

Frank
 
OK another idea

And Don at Airflow will probably get mad at me for this one but oh well..:)

So if you really want a 30 degree fitting..Simply remove the fitting thats there..Go down to your local hydraulic hose emporium and buy the same thing in steel (as opposed to stainless steel) cut the thing in half at the middle and grind a 10 to 15 degree angle on each cut face.

Then simply weld the two halves back together.

I have done this several times when I made fittings for my wingroot fuel pump system.

Somebody who is good with a TIG could probably do the same thing in SS, but I gas weld and carbon steel is what I'm comfortable with.

Of course you will have to adjust (or make new) the connecting bracket.

Perfectly feasible..if your not in a hurry you could cut it, send it to me and I'll weld it back up for you.

Frank
 
Talked with Don. He said I can remotely mount it on the other side of the engine (great idea). He said an 8 inch line or so would not make that much of a difference. By the way if you mount the purge valve remotely, you don't have to use stainless steel fittings. Alum AN fittings work fine. Don't ask me why. Thanks to all for the ideas.
 
I'm with Frank, cut/weld to make your own fitting. I just did almost the exact same thing two days ago. I often wonder how I ever lived without a TIG, lathes, milling machines, etc.
 
but

Talked with Don. He said I can remotely mount it on the other side of the engine (great idea). He said an 8 inch line or so would not make that much of a difference. By the way if you mount the purge valve remotely, you don't have to use stainless steel fittings. Alum AN fittings work fine. Don't ask me why. Thanks to all for the ideas.

What are you going to attach the valve to?

Frank
 
Go down to your local hydraulic hose emporium and buy the same thing in steel (as opposed to stainless steel) cut the thing in half at the middle and grind a 10 to 15 degree angle on each cut face.

Then simply weld the two halves back together.

I have done this several times when I made fittings for my wingroot fuel pump system.

Frank

I'm with Frank, cut/weld to make your own fitting. I just did almost the exact same thing two days ago.

Do you guys have pics?



What are you going to attach the valve to?

Frank

Have to go home and look but I will have to make some type of attachment just like the one for the spider/flow divider. I may be able to install the purge valve in a way that will make it easier to attach the control cable to it for operations. Have to go look at it some more.
 
My guess is with the length of the valve arrangement you won't need anymore than a 10 degree droop. The make a little bracket to hold the cable shroud with an Adel clamp and you'll be set.

its about the simplist way I think

Frank
 
Welding

I for one am not comfortable with welded fittings on fuel, especially in a high vibration environment. I have seen too many professionally tig and gas welded things break on race cars and such from the vibration. Don at airflow doesn't come out and say it, but I will bet the requirement for stainless is because the aluminum fittings were cracking.
 
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I for one am not comfortable with welded fittings on fuel, especially in a high vibration environment. I have seen too many professionally tig and gas welded things break on race cars and such from the vibration. Don at airflow doesn't come out and say it, but I will bet the requirement for stainless is because the aluminum fittings were cracking.


Of course each to their own level of comfort but and I can see how a sloppily TIG welded fitting could fail, but if its done with care there is no way such a fitting would break..for me I turn the gas down and oxy acetylene is a sloow process and this enables you to be sure you have proper flow into the joint.

I have hacksawed thru several of my test welds and they look like a single piece of steel..

If you take that approach then you would never hang an engine on an engine mount, let alone fly a rag and tube airplane as the whole fusalage is welded!..:)

As to the aluminium fitting..well yeah, its aluminium, not steel...But you can't compare that failure to a welded steel fitting as its waay stronger.

Frank
 
Well....

Of course each to their own level of comfort but and I can see how a sloppily TIG welded fitting could fail, but if its done with care there is no way such a fitting would break..for me I turn the gas down and oxy acetylene is a sloow process and this enables you to be sure you have proper flow into the joint.

I have hacksawed thru several of my test welds and they look like a single piece of steel..

If you take that approach then you would never hang an engine on an engine mount, let alone fly a rag and tube airplane as the whole fusalage is welded!..:)

As to the aluminium fitting..well yeah, its aluminium, not steel...But you can't compare that failure to a welded steel fitting as its waay stronger.

Frank

I don't have a problem with welded stuff in general. My last race car was an all 4130 tube chassis that I tig welded together and it never broke. I also don't have any problem with the welds you did on your root mounted pumps. I just don't think a welded fitting should be used on a fuel component which is bolted to the engine (and shares some of the mounting loads as well). The risk of breaking is low, however, the results of the fitting breaking would almost certainly be a life threating event. The thing about welding something is not the weld its self, but what it does to the metal if it isn't done properly. Most fractures occur next to the weld in the original base metal and not in the weld.
 
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Things break when they're not supported properly. Never, ever rely on the fitting as being something structural.

AX-O, I'll get you a pic of one I just made up tomorrow. Its a custom fitting I made for the regulator to connect it to a Rotec TBI.
 
Agreed

I don't have a problem with welded stuff in general. My last race car was an all 4130 tube chassis that I tig welded together and it never broke. I also don't have any problem with the welds you did on your root mounted pumps. I just don't think a welded fitting should be used on a fuel component which is bolted to the engine (and shares some of the mounting loads as well). The risk of breaking is low, however, the results of the fitting breaking would almost certainly be a life threating event. The thing about welding something is not the weld its self, but what it does to the metal if it isn't done properly. Most fractures occur next to the weld in the original base metal and not in the weld.

I certainly understand your caution and its well founded..certainly you don't give this fitting to the kid next door who's just got an arc welder for last Christmas..:)

Thats what I mean by improper procedures..Mose welds get crsytaline when they are cooled too fast so I play the torch over the weld a little to bring it down slowly and don't have any cold drafts going through the shop...Standard procedure for any A&P who should be able to weld up an engine mount.

The weight of the valve is low but the weight should be taken by the bracket anyway..I.e not the fitting..As Bob pointed out fittings are not really intended to take structural loads..But flex hydraulic hoses (which weigh a lot when full) are hung off the end of these fittings all the time on bulldozers and the like.

I think in this case its a perfectly acceptable application and the fact the fitting is welded or not (providing its done correctly) is neither here nor there. I mean think about it..the engine is hung off of welds..same high stress environment with a lot more load than this fitting will ever see.
Add to that an aluminium fitting has been used in this application with sucess until recently and the fatigue resistance of an 1/4" alu fitting will pale compared to a similar steel fitting, welded or not.

its just not an issue in this application I think.

Frank
 
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