RV-10 Rudder Stops

I just came back from Arlington and went to look at the companies RV-10 rudder stops. I could not believe they used the rivets in the rudder stops with all the use it gets.
I had my rivets shear on me at Las Vegas one weekend which caused some damage and replaced them with "pop" rivets thinking they would be stronger in shear but they also failed a couple of weeks ago (lasted 14 months) which I caught on a pre-flight before any damage could occur. I have seen two other RV-10's with failed rivets on the rudder stops, one at Oshkosh last year that damaged the rudder (bummer).

I replaced my rivets with #8 screws and nuts. This will be much stronger

Well, guess what Van's did? #6 or #8 screws.



Next time you have the rudder off I suggest this modification. It could save alot of work down the road someday.
The rivets would work if Van's would make the rudder stops one piece instead of two.

I hope this saves a few rudders from any damage.

How is the rudder being damaged? By the wind moving it from side to side? Did you install a rudder lock when parked?

Rudder Stops

Unfortunately, my rudder lock failed with 50 knot gusts and the slamming from side to side damaged it at Las Vegas a couple of years ago.
But if it fails it does not take much to bend the skins.

I put my rudder lock in at all times, even if I am walking away for 30 seconds now.

Rudder return springs

I installed springs from my rudders forward to the firewall. These keep the cables tight and the rudder from flopping around in light breezes. I still use a gust lock for heaver winds but anything up to 10K the rudder is fine.

Gary Specketer

Similarity to other models?

Hello,

This is very interesting! I am currently installing the rudder stop on my 9A and I am using an internal stop, that has been designed by some other builder. The 9 normally has two outside (ugly) stops. It looks like the 10 uses a similar internal rudder stop. Please see my thread here: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=45155 , with pictures!

Someone answered with a remark about the RV10 rudder stop, I understand that now. If anybody knows what the tail of a 9 looks like, can you comment on the difference with the 10 (apart from it being a bit beefier), is it a significant different design to the 9?

I am now considering to install two additional threaded rods, (not bolts, as has been suggested) to go through the top bracket, the rear spar, the rear bulkhead and then through the second bulkhead. This way the higher loads, when hitting the stop, on the rear bulkhead, are partially transferred to the second (heavier) bulkhead.

Any comments are appreciated.


Kind regards, Tonny.

Drawing of 9 and 10 rudder and VS

Tonny,

Here are what you asking for:

Rudders



Vertical Stabs
(10 on the right)

(10 on the left)


My 10 is in the garage and 9A in hangar so I can not compare the sizes. But I don't think there is a major size difference. 9 VS spar has one doubler, 10 has a doubler and two caps (long angles on either side of the spar). The hinge load is transfered to both the doubler and caps.

Last year my 9A rudder was damaged with a gust lock on. The 1/8" stainless steel rod got bent out of shape and rudder horn hit the external stop very hard even made a small notch. Lower part of the rudder trailing edge popped open due to the twisting force. However, everything else is fine. Yes, do put a reliable gust lock on when you park your plane outside.

The 9 normally has two outside (ugly) stops.

Click to expand...

Yes.................but they go perfectly with those ugly cables!

I'll wait for the internal cable/pushrod modification...

L.Adamson --- RV6A

Side by side comparision of 9 and 10 rudders

Tony,

Here are you asked for. 10 on the left and 9 on the right (my old rudder).



9 has larger surface area.

Drawings and pictures, WOW........!

Ted,

You did not go over this lightly! Drawings, pictures,?? the full Monty! Thanks for the answer.
It?s clear to me know, that the area where the internal stop is located, is stronger on the 10 than on the 9. The rudder of the 10 is even a little smaller (thus smaller loads/shocks to absorb also).

I will put those threaded rods in, to make sure the spar can?t bent and the second bulkhead will absorb at least part of the load, if the stop ever gets hit hard. Although I have return springs on the pedals, obviously a gust lock is necessary to avoid damage when parking in more turbulent weather.

Another idea was to limit the travel of the rudder pedals. This would make it impossible to put to much load on the rudder and stop, when pushing to hard on the pedals and would also aid limiting the loads when the rudder is flapping in the wind. I haven?t figured out a good way to do that yet, though.

Anyway, thanks, again!

Regards, Tonny.

Great Internal Rudder Stops

I used the internal rudder stops available on the list on both the RV-8 and RV-10. They utilize the strength the VS and Rudder spare to limit movement, without the unsightly stock appendages. I have no affiliation, but these are a must have in my opinion...
Link Below?

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=45584&highlight=rudder+stop