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Page 32-05 Flight Controls

S

steve wyman

Well Known Member
I have been wiring the airplane since I got the finish kit last week, but I don't want to have to install the control sticks twice, so I'm wiring them now. Before I do that I'm skipping ahead to page 32-05, to accomplish the control stick mounting. Step 2: on this page tells you to drill the brass bushing with a 1/4" drill- DON'T. Instead, use an under size (.2490) straight flute ream to open up the hole through the bushing. Avery stocks these reams (mine came with my RV-12 tool kit from them). If you drill out the hole with a 1/4" , you will wind up with a sloppy fit ( AN4 bolts nominally measure about .2485). I don't know about anyone else, but I can't stand flying an airplane with binding OR sloppy controls! Just a heads up- take it for what it's worth. Steve
 
steve wyman said:
I have been wiring the airplane since I got the finish kit last week, but I don't want to have to install the control sticks twice, so I'm wiring them now. Before I do that I'm skipping ahead to page 32-05, to accomplish the control stick mounting. Step 2: on this page tells you to drill the brass bushing with a 1/4" drill- DON'T. Instead, use an under size (.2490) straight flute ream to open up the hole through the bushing. Avery stocks these reams (mine came with my RV-12 tool kit from them). If you drill out the hole with a 1/4" , you will wind up with a sloppy fit ( AN4 bolts nominally measure about .2485). I don't know about anyone else, but I can't stand flying an airplane with binding OR sloppy controls! Just a heads up- take it for what it's worth. Steve
Click to expand...

I don't think the design intends for the bushing to rotate on the bolt. The bushing gets clamped by the bolt with the control stick rotating on the bushing.
Because of this, a 1/4" drill works fine, but a ream can be used also.
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
I don't think the design intends for the bushing to rotate on the bolt. The bushing gets clamped by the bolt with the control stick rotating on the bushing.
Because of this, a 1/4" drill works fine, but a ream can be used also.
Click to expand...

Scott- You're absolutely correct that the control stick pivots on the bushing, however, if the bushing is a loose fit on the bolt, no matter how much it is squeezed at the ends, it will still move around on the bolt. If that movement occurs, you will get a sloppy feel on the control stick. Steve
 
steve wyman said:
Scott- You're absolutely correct that the control stick pivots on the bushing, however, if the bushing is a loose fit on the bolt, no matter how much it is squeezed at the ends, it will still move around on the bolt. If that movement occurs, you will get a sloppy feel on the control stick. Steve
Click to expand...

This would be true if it moved around. After complete 12 different RV's, I have never had a sloppy stick because of a 1/4 inch hole in the bushing. If it has play, it is always between the bushing and the stick weldment.

A very nice flying RV-12 can be built without lots of extra tools ($).
To each his own.
 
Steve,

I used the reamer and it worked fine. Also, don't forget to "file" down the posts while you're in there...you don't want to do it after you're wired up.
 
steve wyman said:
I have been wiring the airplane since I got the finish kit last week, but I don't want to have to install the control sticks twice, so I'm wiring them now. Before I do that I'm skipping ahead to page 32-05, to accomplish the control stick mounting. Step 2: on this page tells you to drill the brass bushing with a 1/4" drill- DON'T. Instead, use an under size (.2490) straight flute ream to open up the hole through the bushing. Avery stocks these reams (mine came with my RV-12 tool kit from them). If you drill out the hole with a 1/4" , you will wind up with a sloppy fit ( AN4 bolts nominally measure about .2485). I don't know about anyone else, but I can't stand flying an airplane with binding OR sloppy controls! Just a heads up- take it for what it's worth. Steve
Click to expand...


EXCELLENT POST!

I HATE sloppy controls. I have rebuilt several RV's I've worked on to get rid of the slop.

FYI brass shim stock works wonders.
 
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