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  #1  
Old 01-06-2009, 10:17 PM
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pazmanyflyer pazmanyflyer is offline
 
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Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
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Question Homemade pre-oiler

Does any one have plans or pictures of a homemade pre-oiler for their overhauled/new engine?
Here's my case...We purchased a rebuild O290 and dad wants to have some type of pressurized system to pass oil through the engine oil passages before we re-install the cylinders. (Cylinders removed to inspect cam, crankshaft and the rest of the case internally.) This way dad, and our AP/AI signing the books, have visual confirmation that the oil passages internally/externally are not blocked. I have ideas but if someone else knows how this can be done I'd appreciate any information, plans, pictures you have on it.

Thanks
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Wittman Tailwind W8 N53CH (built & sold)
Pazmany PL-1 N2029 (bought & sold)
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Emp & Wings done - working on fuselage - finish kit received

"The air is an extremely dangerous, jealous and exacting mistress. Once under the spell most lovers are faithful to the end, which is not always old age." - Winston Churchill

Last edited by pazmanyflyer : 01-07-2009 at 12:08 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2009, 10:38 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
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Default If

You install and accumulator it can do it for you.

Frank
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2009, 05:36 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Default Many different tanks........

.....have been adapted, Carlos...from Freon bottles to small fire extinguishers.

Essentially, a way to pour oil in, install a cap/plug, with an air fitting and a hose to attach to the oil pressure sending port and open the valve.

Regards,
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2009, 07:59 AM
noelf noelf is offline
 
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Location: Cary, N.C.
Posts: 945
Default Two possibilities on this...

1) follow the Lycoming SB on pre oiling...Basically it says to pull the spark plugs and crank the engine until you get oil pressure.

1A) Van's Builders Instructions suggest that you disconnect the oil pressure line at the oil pressure sensor (manifold), spin the engine as above, until oil seeps out of the oil pressure line, reconnect everything, and then proceed with an engine start.

2) In the Orndorff (sp??) videos, his pre-oil procedure was to fill a pump-up plastic 2gal weed sprayer can with oil. Remove the oil pressure line (and the restrictor fitting) from the engine, and adapt a fitting onto the spray can hose that will fit the engine. Put oil in the can, pump up the sprayer, and oil will be forced into the engine and all the oil passageways. I think he indicated that it took several iterations of this, but he put the entire 7 -8 qts of oil in the engine this way.
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  #5  
Old 01-07-2009, 11:12 AM
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pazmanyflyer pazmanyflyer is offline
 
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Default Building a pre-oiler

I got a few emails from the lycoming guys at the yahoo groups and thought I'd post a few pictures of what I'm doing to pre-oil my engine. I'll be buying supplies tonight at my local Home(builders) Depot aviation department. 20-40 psi should be just fine to push oil through the case to check for free and clear passages.









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Carlos in Arizona
Wittman Tailwind W8 N53CH (built & sold)
Pazmany PL-1 N2029 (bought & sold)
RV7 - N537TC (reserved & building)
Emp & Wings done - working on fuselage - finish kit received

"The air is an extremely dangerous, jealous and exacting mistress. Once under the spell most lovers are faithful to the end, which is not always old age." - Winston Churchill

Last edited by pazmanyflyer : 01-07-2009 at 12:12 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:16 PM
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Default

Beware when you disconnect the air hose, whatever oil is left in the rig is going to come right back out at you if it still has pressure :-).
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  #7  
Old 01-07-2009, 01:52 PM
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pazmanyflyer pazmanyflyer is offline
 
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Default Pre-oiler

Quote:
Originally Posted by scard View Post
Beware when you disconnect the air hose, whatever oil is left in the rig is going to come right back out at you if it still has pressure :-).
Good point Scott. In that case I may use shut off valves on each end.
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Carlos in Arizona
Wittman Tailwind W8 N53CH (built & sold)
Pazmany PL-1 N2029 (bought & sold)
RV7 - N537TC (reserved & building)
Emp & Wings done - working on fuselage - finish kit received

"The air is an extremely dangerous, jealous and exacting mistress. Once under the spell most lovers are faithful to the end, which is not always old age." - Winston Churchill

Last edited by pazmanyflyer : 01-07-2009 at 01:55 PM.
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2016, 05:58 PM
Boomer506 Boomer506 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Stanwood, WA
Posts: 84
Default Pre-oil the engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by noelf View Post
1) follow the Lycoming SB on pre oiling...Basically it says to pull the spark plugs and crank the engine until you get oil pressure.

1A) Van's Builders Instructions suggest that you disconnect the oil pressure line at the oil pressure sensor (manifold), spin the engine as above, until oil seeps out of the oil pressure line, reconnect everything, and then proceed with an engine start.

2) In the Orndorff (sp??) videos, his pre-oil procedure was to fill a pump-up plastic 2gal weed sprayer can with oil. Remove the oil pressure line (and the restrictor fitting) from the engine, and adapt a fitting onto the spray can hose that will fit the engine. Put oil in the can, pump up the sprayer, and oil will be forced into the engine and all the oil passageways. I think he indicated that it took several iterations of this, but he put the entire 7 -8 qts of oil in the engine this way.
If I plan on pumping several quarts of oil into the engine through all of the oil passageways, and there is already a restrictor fitting on my oil pressure sender port, what is the next best port to force the oil through? I have an IO-360 A1B6. Thanks.
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2016, 09:34 PM
tim2542 tim2542 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redding,Ca
Posts: 352
Default PVC

You can make a "pig" out of PVC pipe and fittings, use a large threaded fitting on one end so you can pour oil fill it, then a 1/8" pipe fitting on the other end to plumb to the engine.
Just make sure it's clean inside as you will be bypassing the filter, any potential good you may do by oiling will be lost from debris forced into the galleys. Keep the pressure reasonable, like 20 psi or less.
Also, pre oiling a newly assembled engine is fine, but if your concern is checking for plugged oil passages...there not going to be plugged. You can spin prime it just fine with the plugs out and 20-30 turns often he prop. Also keep in mind all you are oiling by either method is the crank bearings. Nothing else will get oil until you run it.
Tim Andres
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2016, 06:07 AM
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Default

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