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Aluminum on grinding wheel myth...

danielhv

Well Known Member
is this true? I am working on the tank attach angles, and I made a rough cut with the hack saw, then filed by hand, and still have a long way to go. The 3M wheel is good for polishing it off, but man, I need a faster way to remove material here, because doing it by hand is wearing me out! This may be all I managed to get done this weekend at this rate!! :eek:
 
I seldom filed anything by hand. Rough cuts were on the band saw, while the near finish took place on my 1" belt sanders (had two with different belts). Then the final polish was with large scotchbrite wheel on the grinder.

If required, I used 2" blue scrotchbrite wheels on my 90 degree air die grinder. Actually, I used lot's of them.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
Zirconium flap discs..

.....by DeWalt and other manufacturers really eat aluminum fast. Most hardware stores carry them....they fit in those 20,000 RPM side grinders and look like many layers of sandpaper overlapping each other all the way around. The abrasive is cubic zirconium....very hard and long-lasting too and come in varying grits. We use 60-80 for most removal.

Regards,
 
I love my vixen file. The advantage is that you get a good flat surface if you use it correctly.

I hold onto moth sides and work it kinda like you would a hand plane, but you will want to wear gloves. I shredded my thumb on mine.

Belt sander is a good idea too, I am looking to add one to my shop soon.
 
That ain't no myth....I have seen a grinding wheel explode because someone was grinding alum with it. It was not a pretty site!

Don't do it!
 
Yo Brian, you'll love the Vixen file. Worth $28 for sure. Hold it at a 45* angle to the work with thick leather gloves and make smooth passes in one direction the entire length. Big teeth side first until you get it down to the line you want and then smaller teeth side to smooth it out better. Final finish with scotchbright wheel.

A new vixen will go through alum like butter - you'll be amazed at the amount of shavings with each pass.

b,
d
 
Daniel,

Go invest in a Craftsman or similar 2" belt sander. The kind that has the 8" vertical plate on the side and uses the stick on sanding discs. There is a lot of angle pieces to be made especially in the fuse and this will make them square as well. You still need to smooth them up with the Scotchbrite wheel as a final polish.
 
True-makes an explosive called thermite..welds railroad tracks

You should never grind aluminum on a grinding wheel that has also been used to grind steel/iron. Over the years I've heard of many grinding wheels exploding for this reason. I put a warning sticker on the grinder in my hangar.
 
Thermite

Grinding aluminum on a stone grinding wheel is no joke. Can you say Thermite Fireball? Can you say 6300 degrees farenheit?

http://www.hanford.gov/rl/?page=542&parent=506

Fireball from Aluminum Grinding Dust

Date: September 21, 2001

Identifier: 2001-RL-HNF-0036

Lessons Learned Statement:
Aluminum grinding dust can create a serious explosive fire hazard when it is mixed with steel or iron grinding dust.

Discussion of Activities:
A safety coordinator at the Esso Oil Company plant in Longford, Australia, was using a belt grinder in his home workshop to smooth the edge of a hacksaw cut on a 2" length of 1.5" angle iron. He had been grinding for about 1.5 to 2 minutes when there was a loud "THUMP" accompanied by an approximately 2-foot diameter brilliant yellow orange fireball. The fireball lasted no more than 1 second and then completely extinguished itself. It completely enveloped the machine, his hands to half way up his forearms, and the front of his torso.

Injuries included deep second-degree burns to about 60% of the victim's left hand and 50% of his right hand and first degree burns to his neck, chin, cheeks, lips, and the end of his nose. The right cuff of his shirt was smoldering, his face felt a burning sensation, and he could hear the front of his hair sizzling. Nothing on the bench was burning. A few streaks of white powder were deposited on the bench top and on a few items lying on the bench. The workshop was filled with dense white smoke with very little odor. His fingers and the ends of his thumbs escaped relatively unscathed as they were protected from the heat flash. He was wearing glasses, which protected his eyes. He also lost half his moustache, one of his eyebrows, and about 1 inch off the front of his hair. His eyelashes were curled by the heat but not singed. The burns to his face were caused solely by radiant heat, as the fireball did not come that high.

Analysis:
A few days before the event, the man's son had ground the heads off about twelve aluminum pop rivets. Finely divided aluminum mixed with finely divided ferrous oxide (the black powder residue from grinding steel) produced a compound called thermite. Thermite is used to fill incendiary bombs and is used commercially to weld large steel items. It burns at approximately 3500C (6300F), hence the extensive burns from such a short exposure time.

Recommended actions:
The victim recommended that the manufacturer of the grinding wheel should include a very strong warning about the dangers posed by grinding steel after having ground aluminum. That warning should include precautions to thoroughly clean the grinding machine of all aluminum dust before grinding iron or steel.
 
Vixen file - definitely! (Jiust used mine this afternoon to adjust the fit on an alternator bracket).

But also....band saw! For cutting thick aluminum to rough shape, there is nothing better. You're going to spend how much on the airplane? And you can save how many hours by spending a couple hundred on a band saw? You do the math.....

Paul
 
Belt Sander Belt Sander Belt Sander

You need a belt sander. Its how I fab all my parts to final size. Rough cut on band saw, sand to final shape. Polish with scotch brite. You can see it at www.mykitlog.com/sglynn

have fun
 
Belt sander

You need a belt sander. Every builder needs a belt sander. It is the poor man's Bridgeport mill. Heck, even now that I have a Bridgeport I still use the belt sander more often.
 
BTW gents, note the wording in the safety report;

"...was using a belt grinder in his home workshop.."

I don't use bench grinder wheel for aluminum just because it doesn't work very well. However, I use a 6x48 belt sander a lot. Most of them have a "cup" under the lower roller with a vacuum cleaner hose port. If you're sanding wood, hook up the shop vac and use it as a dust collector. If you use the machine for steel and aluminum, remove the cup. It is the perfect place to collect a nice pile of steel and aluminum debris, hidden from view, and the belt throws sparks into it.

Even with the cup removed you can form a pile under the machine, but that's more a question of shop tidyness. I clean up a lot with the vac just because I don't like to track stuff all over the shop. Don't forget to clean around the machine baseplate.

BTW, like the others, I consider the big belt sander to be in the top three most used/most essential shop machines, the others being a floor mount drill press and a bandsaw re-rigged to cut metal.
 
4" grinding disk

if you have a 4" disk grinder they make special aluminum grinding disks for them that will not load up on aluminum and are very aggressive. they can be parched at you welding supply store. just another option. i can't comment on the fire hazard aspect of it but at least some of the filings will be fairly large. just another option.
leon
 
I will just throw my second vote in for the vixen file. I find working with it very satisfying. It takes a lot of alluminum off in one stroke, leaves a nice smooth edge and will allow you to get very close to your final dimensions before you switch to the scotch brite wheel.

I used in ton the AA6 Hstab attach brackets and was very pleased with the results. It also did a great job for many of the spar cap tapers.
 
Bandsaws, flywheels, bench sanders, OH my!

I took a cue from my day job. Sure, I occasionally use a vixen file, it does have its uses. Far more often though, I rely on the sander of choice found in many aircraft production environments....the ubiquitous 220V 12" bench sander usually located adjacent a band saw. I find the tool so indespensible, I purchased two of the 115V Grizzly variety. One is at home, the other at the hangar. Both get used....a lot.


 
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Vixen file fur sur

I use the bandsaw, vixen file, 3M wheel combo for most of my material removal jobs. I have other "lesser" files for small places and small corners. I started using the bench grinder with sanding disk but the thing had no power and would invariably bog down.

Remember, it doesn't have to be perfect - just darned near.
 
Make the rough cut as accurate as possible

When I can, I make rough cuts in aluminum bar, angle, and thick sheet with a 10-inch miter saw with a carbide tipped blade. I feed the blade into the aluminum slowly and it makes small flakes as it cuts. The edge finish and accuracy is good enough to go straight to the Scotch-Brite wheel for a quick finishing pass or two.

When the miter saw can't handle the part due to it's size or shape, I use a band saw, or occasionally a hack saw. These don't give as accurate a cut or as good a finish, but I always try to get as close to the cut line as I can without touching it, like up to 1/16 of an inch away. These cuts can also be easily finished up on the Scotch-Brite wheel, but with a few more passes and bearing down on the wheel a bit.

The point is to make your rough cuts as accurate as possible so you don't have to spend a lot of time on finishing the part.

When the rough cuts come out really rough, I use a combination belt\disc sander to bring the parts into Scotch-Brite finishing range. I also find a occasional use for several sizes of drum sanders chucked in a drill press, especially for finishing the inside of hole-saw-cut holes.

While I occasionally use a Vixen file for finishing up a rough cut part, and I would recommend one for a tool kit, I find that I don't use it very often. But, when I do using use files for shaping aluminum, I keep a file card/brush handy to frequeltly remove filings from the file grooves as I work. Aluminum has a really bad tendency to build up on a file.
 
But, when I do using use files for shaping aluminum, I keep a file card/brush handy to frequeltly remove filings from the file grooves as I work. Aluminum has a really bad tendency to build up on a file.
Spraying the file with "Pam" first helps. It helps to keep the aluminum filings from sticking to the file.
 
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