What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

How I jack up my -8

Ironflight

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
There are about as many threads on how people jack up their RV's for maintenance as there are people who own RV's....Since I was changing tires tonight, I figured it was a good time to take pictures of how I do it. I was considering hanging a chain hoist in my hangar, removing the top cowl, and using the engine mount, but when I considered the work involved in getting out a tall ladder, finding a good spot in the steel to attach the chain hoist, rigging it all, then spotting the airplane properly, I figured that my old method would be a lot quicker.

Basically, I am using the same saw horse that I used when I built the airplane - it lived on these jacks for months before first flight. The jacks are screwed into the top of the saw horse with countersunk wood screws for stability.

IMG_6874.jpg


I remove the gear attach covers on the belly, and jack on the horizontal portion of the gear leg, using some soft wood between the top of the jack and the gear. It is surprisingly stable, yet I am very careful to control traffic around the plane when it is on the jacks.

IMG_6876.jpg


I timed the entire tire change process tonight. The plane was on the jacks, with the wheel pants removed in 15 minutes. Tires were off the rims in another 30, and total time until the plane was off the jacks, complete and ready to fly was just shy of two hours - that is for tires and wheel bearings. Getting it off the jacks and putting covers and fairings back on account for the last fifteen minutes.

Paul
 
Last edited:
You are not worried about them kicking out? If you raise the tail it would be less of an angle on the bearing points. Just my $.02.
 
8

TSwezey said:
You are not worried about them kicking out? If you raise the tail it would be less of an angle on the bearing points. Just my $.02.
Click to expand...

Todd:

Not to be contrary here----------.

80% of the people here are thinking RV3-4-6-7-9-10. The RV-8 with the flat gear legs is the odd one of the RV bunch.

As you know, Paul, is a NASA engineer, and certainly wouldn't have jeopardized his airplane with a questionable solution to jacking. Note: He used soft wood between the jack points and the gear leg attatch points.

BTW, I applaud your pioneering spirit with your engine selection and wish you the best!

I'm in North GA. and if I can be of any help, let me know. When you fly, please stop by KAJR

My phone # is 770-519-4999
 
RV-Jack1.JPG

RV-Jack3.JPG


Paul, With all due respect for your engineering NASAness, IMHO you need an RV jacks. If you start wrenching on the plane with your jacks it could slip off.

Take a 3/8-18 socket head cap screw and grind the head to fit the top of the cylinder, and you drill a nice concaved impression. The bolt goes into your tie down socket. You'll need to remove the "eye" bolt first. ;)

Harbor Freight has the cylinders for $29 each. The metal braces are electrical conduit (questionable material choice, but it works) welded to an adjustable metal band. Bohunk tested and approved.

These can be used for RV-3,-4, -6, -7, -8, -9, -10, & -12. These jacks are solid simple, cheap, & safe. I stole the idea from a builder buddy in the KC area, he stole the idea from someone else, and so it goes.
 
Last edited:
TSwezey said:
You are not worried about them kicking out? If you raise the tail it would be less of an angle on the bearing points. Just my $.02.
Click to expand...

Actually a fair question, the answer for which is that if I am going to do extensive maintenance, I usually raise the tail. But for a short period of time, just doing tires and brakes, it is plenty stable. The jacks do need to be fastened to the sawhorse for me to be comfortable however.

Paul
 
BTW Paul, the belly of your plane could use some 409! :rolleyes: Must have been those 50 rolls! ;)

I really like your paint scheme, haven't seen one like that before.
 
Last edited:
Paul,

I would recommend to use a thicker piece of wood and drill a hole half through it, big enough for the jack to rest in.

Ingo
 
Ingo Weise said:
Paul,

I would recommend to use a thicker piece of wood and drill a hole half through it, big enough for the jack to rest in.

Ingo
Click to expand...

Ingo - I actually had a setup very much like you suggest when I was building, but couldn't use them when I installed the fuel vents. The pieces of wood I use today are extremely soft - particle board - and the jacks dig their own holes. Fine for tire changing, but obviously, I wouldn't change an engine or mount wings this way!

Nice jacks Larry - have you done fracture mechanic testing on those strut bends? (just kidding....):p
 
Hey Paul

I noticed that your fuel vents "appear" to not have any screens on them.
How do you keep the mud daubers out?
Or do you?

I've been thinking about how to do this on my '8.
 
I know a good idea when I see one. If someone skilled and ambitious enough assembled a high quality kit that included powdercoated steel bracing instead of aluminum and carrying a price point of $30-40 not including the hydraulic jack, I can see a market out there. ;)

​
 
dedgemon said:
I noticed that your fuel vents "appear" to not have any screens on them.
How do you keep the mud daubers out?
Or do you?
Click to expand...

I have tight-fitting vent covers with "Remove Before Flight" flags that are installed anytime that the airplane is sitting still and I am not there to shoo away the bugs....
 
Rick6a said:
I know a good idea when I see one. If someone skilled and ambitious enough assembled a high quality kit that included powdercoated steel bracing instead of aluminum and carrying a price point of $30-40 not including the hydraulic jack, I can see a market out there. ;)

​
Click to expand...

You don't think scrap plywood and electrical conduit will cut it huh? ;)

Seriously, these jacks are sturdy, solid, safe, and cheap.
 
Last edited:
More respect needed for Paul

With all due respect to the previous respondents. Any man who has two airplanes in his garage has my admiration and needs no advice from me. Way to go dude!

Steve with only 1 plane.
 
jack point alternative

I decided to switch the jack-point to a socket style on my jacking rig.
This seems to me to be safer than the other methods I've seen and it is super easy to make and very secure. 3/8" bolt through a suitably large socket with a washer to protect the paint. Snug up and jack away.
1001918fy3.jpg


I was also considering making up a long stroke jack using the HF cylinder.
I also saw this at HF and thought it might be easily cut down to make an underwing jack. Price seems right ($60). The local HF did not have one on display, but a similar post style version had a ball-bearing jackscrew that looked like it could probably lift the wing without the need for a hydraulic jack.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41860
418601hx4.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top