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How do I remove this nut?

AX-O

AX-O

Well Known Member
I bought a mid time O320 with an old 4 pipe Vetterman system for my RV-4. I want to take the pipes off and have them sandblasted to take some of the corrosion off. My problem is that I have no clue on how to remove this bolt. All the other ones will be difficult to remove but this one looks impossible. I can't get anything in there. It is the exhaust pipe coming out of the number 4 cylinder. Is there a special tool for this?

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USE A BENCH GRINDER.......

Grab a craftsman open end wrench (or a cheaper one) and start grinding on it till it fits. Don't let the wrench get hot, keep it cool in water as you grind on it. This will be the start of your custom tool collection.

The stud looks longer than it should be, but bring the nut down as far as you can and go to another nut. As the pipes drop down, you will have greater access to get the nut off.

Install a shorter stud.
 
Looks like you will have to use an open end wrench, maybe even grind one down to be thinner. You will have to bring the nut down until it touches the pipe then work the pipe down away from the head to completely remove the nut. Just remember you will have to do the same when you put the exhaust back on.

In a more direct answer; loosen nut, wiggle header down, loosen nut, wiggle header down... Repeat until the nut is removed.
 
I would get a box-end wrench and try that. Usually the higher the quality of the wrench, the thinner they are as far as the wall thickness of the socket, or "box".
Grind down the walls of a cheap wrench if you want. Don't forget penetrating oil; spray some on and let it sit overnight.
You won't get an open end wrench in there.
 
Sometimes a Craftsman...

...flex socket with a 1/4 inch drive and an extension will work here.

lbm98836s.jpg


It depends on the curve of the exhaust pipe, but it's worth a try...
 
Looking at the weld on the flange, I would bet that it is NOT a Vetterman exhaust.

Are you sure it is Stainless Steel exhaust? I have never seen that much corrosion an a Vetterman Stainless Steel exhaust.
 
Not all are stainless

Gary,

In the early days of Vetterman his exhaust was not stainless. Still I do wonder if the one pictured here is a Vetterman.
 
To be clear....Gil's method will NOT work for this nut as the stud will interfere or bottom out in the socket due it's extended length. It will work (and is what I use) for appropriately sized studs. You'll have to use the ground down wrench method previously mentioned until you have 'less stud' showing.

az_gila said:
...flex socket with a 1/4 inch drive and an extension will work here.

lbm98836s.jpg


It depends on the curve of the exhaust pipe, but it's worth a try...
Click to expand...
 
You're bonna be hard pressed to convince me that this is a Vetterman system.

My RV-6 had one of the very early Vetterman mild steel systems. It was constructed MUCH better than this.
This looks to me more like one of the early Alan Tolle systems.
Bring that picture to LOE and let's discuss it with Larry.
 
if the nut you can get to can be removed with the stud and the pipes are individual you could remove the accessible nut and stud then turn the pipe to gain access to it.. the studs look a bit long for the flex socket but the flex socket has a 1/4 inch hole in it so it may fit the length but it looks doubtfull to me that you could get it on there . good luck ymmv.....
 
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A Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel will make quick work of removing the nut. make a cut across the bottom of the nut against the stud. A couple of hammer taps on a screwdriver will quickly remove the nut. A second option is to cut the stud off a little closer to the nut. You can then use a 1/4' drive universal socket to remove the nut. I believe the Snap On socket has a thin enough wall section to slip over the nut., or you can grind down a brand x socket to get the clearance you need.
 
RV6_flyer said:
Looking at the weld on the flange, I would bet that it is NOT a Vetterman exhaust.

Are you sure it is Stainless Steel exhaust? I have never seen that much corrosion an a Vetterman Stainless Steel exhaust.
Click to expand...

May not be. I don't know. The log book indicates it is. This engine came off an RV-4 built in 1986.


All,
thanks for all the advice!
 
Since the pipe looks shot anyway I'd torch the tube or use a sawsall to get it out of my way then use a regular open end wrench to get the nut off.
 
Rivethead said:
Since the pipe looks shot anyway I'd torch the tube or use a sawsall to get it out of my way then use a regular open end wrench to get the nut off.
Click to expand...

I agree with this response. It looks kind of old and I'd be suspect of it regardless. (That's not to imply it is not air worrthy.) Would pulling it and spending the time and money to clean it up be worth it? I've heard some builders complain how flanges get warped upon reassembly allowing exhaust gasses to blow out through the gasket/flange.
 
Well guys I took the pipes off and sent them to the shop for sand blasting. I was very happy with the result. Once I looked at the pipes I found a crack that I could not see before. I sent them out to G-force and he welded it. The pipes were then lightly painted with VHT paint and covered with heat wrap. Here are a few pics.

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Axel,
Exhaust heat wrap is very detrimental to an air-cooled aircraft engine.
Please call Larry Vetterman at 605-745-5932 and he will explain the problems with this very misunderstood application.
 
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Mel is right

I have seen exhaust systems self destruct from the use of that heat wrap.

Please be careful here.
 
Mel said:
Axel,
Exhaust heat wrap is very detrimental to an air-cooled aircraft engine.
Please call Larry Vetterman at 605-745-5932 and he will explain the problems with this very misunderstood application.
Click to expand...


:eek::eek: I will call. Have never heard of that. Thanks!
 
gasman said:
SO............ Axel, How did you get that nut off?
Click to expand...

I unbolted the nuts on the outboard side first. Then I used a flat screw driver and a small hammer and tapped on the corner of the nut. This was after I sprayed WD-40 on the nut for 3 days and left it untouched for about a week. It came off without a problem. It just took a long time to spin.
 
I guess I should have said (written) something. When breaking a rusted nut loose the way we always did it was to apply heat to the nut and get the nut as hot as practical then spray copious amounts of WD40 or what ever you're going to use on the nut while the nut is still VERY hot. Doing that effectively draws the oil up into the threads much like soldering copper pipe together. Once the nut cools another application of WD40 or whatever and then the wrench applied to the nut or in this case a hammer and a screwdriver? usually breaks the nut loose quite easily.

Also, While checking some other information out I checked to see if I had a wrench the can fit onto that nut with pipe in the way. Sure enough, one of my Lycoming cylinder wrench's fit just like it was made for it.
 
box wrench mod

Something I've had to do more than once:

Take a decent box wrench (but not too pricey) and saw out a section from the box-ring the same width as your bolt.

You can then slip the box "C" ring past the bolt, down on the nut, and get a grip.

It takes a really good hacksaw blade to go through the hard wrench, but it can be done.

G.
 
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