Van's Air Force
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Probe wire routing & secure
- Thread starter Rivethead
- Start date
Sorry, all my pictures are old school film type. Van's carries an item called C-606 Link. I will double check the p/n tomorrow when I am at the hanger...
It is a steel link, about 2 inches long, and has a #12 hole in each end. I think my initial one came with a wiring kit, and is used to attach the starter electrical cable to one of the sump bolts. I liked the links so much I ordered 10 of 'em and used them to secure the EGT and CHT wires firewall forward. Oh, I also powder coated them.
On the lowest screw position on each valve / rocker box cover, I used one of the links. The hole in the link was enlarged to 1/4in. to fit the screw thread diameter. A washer or two, whatever was needed, was used as a standoff to clear the lip of the box cover. The lower hole of the link was used to attach a cushion clamp and the wires that passed by that area.
It is a steel link, about 2 inches long, and has a #12 hole in each end. I think my initial one came with a wiring kit, and is used to attach the starter electrical cable to one of the sump bolts. I liked the links so much I ordered 10 of 'em and used them to secure the EGT and CHT wires firewall forward. Oh, I also powder coated them.
On the lowest screw position on each valve / rocker box cover, I used one of the links. The hole in the link was enlarged to 1/4in. to fit the screw thread diameter. A washer or two, whatever was needed, was used as a standoff to clear the lip of the box cover. The lower hole of the link was used to attach a cushion clamp and the wires that passed by that area.
That sounds like a good idea. I'm fuel injected with a lycomming horizontal sump and have been thinking of routing back inside the tunnel formed by intake tubes cylinders and case. That way the wires should be in an area of good cool airflow. I'm considering using the intake tubes as a tie point with standoffs and wire ties, but the point of this thread is to get as many ideas as I can and then perhaps blend them into something I can use.
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OneCharlieKilo
Well Known Member
photos of my O-360 RV-6A setup
I routed the probe wires outside the cylinders on one side and underneath the cylinders on the other side. First engine run planned in next couple weeks so not yet flying but this is what I did and we'll see how it works in flight hopefully very soon.
Right side routing:
Left side routing:
Link to other photos of the probe wire routing:
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg3.htm
Chris
RV-6A, almost ready for inspection & first flight
Mountain View, CA
I routed the probe wires outside the cylinders on one side and underneath the cylinders on the other side. First engine run planned in next couple weeks so not yet flying but this is what I did and we'll see how it works in flight hopefully very soon.
Right side routing:
Left side routing:
Link to other photos of the probe wire routing:
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg3.htm
Chris
RV-6A, almost ready for inspection & first flight
Mountain View, CA
pierre smith
Well Known Member
As an aside....
......what prevents those automotive type spark plug leads from vibrating off, Chris?
Curious,
......what prevents those automotive type spark plug leads from vibrating off, Chris?
Curious,
OneCharlieKilo
Well Known Member
auto style plug leads
Pierre -
I haven't seen anything other than the regular "snap-in" clip in similar installations but open to suggestions if there's something more I should do. Easy enough to replace on inspection if it starts to feel like one of them is loosening up but initial fit is a pretty firm engagement.
How about others with electronic ignitions running auto plugs; anybody had problems with plug leads vibratiing off?
Chris
RV-6A
Pierre -
I haven't seen anything other than the regular "snap-in" clip in similar installations but open to suggestions if there's something more I should do. Easy enough to replace on inspection if it starts to feel like one of them is loosening up but initial fit is a pretty firm engagement.
How about others with electronic ignitions running auto plugs; anybody had problems with plug leads vibratiing off?
Chris
RV-6A
flion
Well Known Member
I ended up making my own spark plug wires for my lightspeeds. Because I didn't like how close the wires were going to the exhausts, I used straight connectors for the bottom plugs. These use the same kind of boots you'll see on a dragster; they grip the entire length of the outside of the plug and take quite a bit of pulling to remove. I'm not worried about them, but I may go back and safety the angled connectors at the top plugs. Anyone got a picture of how they safety them?
Thanks to both of you that replied. Your input has helped me out a lot. This afternoon I came up with my answer and must give credit to Frankh for showing me the automotive fuel line stand off tie down thing a ma jig a couple of months ago.
might want to use black wire ties for the engine compartment.
OK I'll bite. Why black instead of White? This afternoon I went out to the airport and asked two A&P's about this and they both looked at me like I was crazy. Also a couple of years ago I was cleaning up some wireing in my Cessna and another A&P told me not to use those D*** black wire ties anywhere ever cause they get brittle faster. Something about UV. So like I said I'll bite, What's up?
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Black Ties
Steve may be referring to the 'High Temp' black ties that are available. Stein has them on his website. Advertised as more heat resistant for FWF use. http://steinair.com/cableties.htm
Mike H 9A/8A
Steve may be referring to the 'High Temp' black ties that are available. Stein has them on his website. Advertised as more heat resistant for FWF use. http://steinair.com/cableties.htm
Mike H 9A/8A
Bill Wightman
Well Known Member
Chris,
Pierre's point is a very good one. Your plug boots may be nice and tight sitting there brand new in the workshop at room temp. It will be a different story at 350F and 6-g's.
Safety wire around the plug boot works very nicely. This is much more secure than using a zip tie.
Pierre's point is a very good one. Your plug boots may be nice and tight sitting there brand new in the workshop at room temp. It will be a different story at 350F and 6-g's.
Safety wire around the plug boot works very nicely. This is much more secure than using a zip tie.
647jc
Well Known Member
Black Tie Wraps
Black tie wraps are typically considered UV stable or UV resistant because of the tinting agent (carbon or lamp black I think). Non tinted or colored tie wraps are typically NOT UV stable although you can now find some that are. So, black tie wraps are usually preferred where UV deterioration may be a concern. Anyway, that's what I heard and I'm just passing it on.
Black tie wraps are typically considered UV stable or UV resistant because of the tinting agent (carbon or lamp black I think). Non tinted or colored tie wraps are typically NOT UV stable although you can now find some that are. So, black tie wraps are usually preferred where UV deterioration may be a concern. Anyway, that's what I heard and I'm just passing it on.
